Dave WM

Its all really good, at least from what I can tell by looking and turning. I could not detect any radial play at all.

I thought I found one, but it was 22T, anyway I need have a 23t that has the chipped teeth. I have a inquiry out to a company to see if they have one. Hope to hear back Monday.

oh and on more thing the reverse idler has 23t, which I could not find for a ZX when searching gears. Argh.

ok got the rear ext pretty well sorted out. Removed the striker lever from the striker rod by using a drift on the loosened nut thru the anti balk hole, it lined up perfectly. I just supported the opposite side of the striker lever so I would not transmit the force directly to the rod. Next I popped out the cover on the back of the shifter (a few lite taps of the shifter rod popped it right out. Replaced both the o ring (rock hard) and the seal. Used a long socket to seat the seal. Removed the rear main seal then took another look at the bushing with the spiral oil groove. It was not as bad as I thought so I just used some 1000 grit and light oil to clean up some of the scoring. Note the oil gutter which was missing (stuck to the drain magnet) is the supply source of oil to this bushing, perhaps a at least some of the reason it was scored up. Cleaned up, and then replaced the rear seal using a block of wood to drive home. replaced the o ring on the speedo gear housing. did replace the seal in the speedo. Decided AGAINST messing with that reverse gear, everything seems good on bearings and the rest of the gears, did not want to subject it to any of my attempts at removing the large staked nut. So now I will get some oil resistant sealant and re attach the rear housing. Some how my seal package came in with out the front seal so that will have to wait.

pretty sure the pulley bearing is ok, when I was checking over things, I removed the belt and gave it a spin, was smooth and quiet.

EuroDat, any tips on removal and installation of that bushing? I did order all the seals from Nissan, so I have good ones. I am on the hunt for the revers idler, turns out may have a supplier near by in Miramar FL.

tail housing bushing looks pretty chewed up (spiral grooved pressed in bushing at end of tail shaft extension). Searching turned up this http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/303066.html Does this part look right? Found a clearer pic of the oil seal I think maybe leaking http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Nissan-Datsun-200SX-510-610-710-810-Maxima-1973-1984-Repair-Guide/Manual-Transmission/Transmission/_/P-0900c1528008305e see fig 19

I plan to use this in my 75 280z. The oil gutter was broken, oil leaked out from the shifter. I am in the process of replacing the missing gutter, put on some new seals while I have it apart and examine the bearings and gears. Could use some help on the oil seal on the shift rod.

video posted

don't know, I did notice the comp feel def had a "tight" spot as I turned it by hand, almost like an old York single cylinder setup, I assume a warble plate should have no real noticeable compression bump to it. all just a guess as I have not removed it.

I think I feel a video coming on. If for no other reason to let folks hear the sound of the compressor, and let me know if it sounds like its going bad. I have the replacement ready but planned on running this one for a while to see if the dye showed up any more leaks.

75f ambient, 75psi with engine off hi and lo, running at 1500 rpm max ac I get 150 highside low 20's on the low side. Temps I got with IR gun aimed down at the evap coil was in the teens. air temps with a meat thermometer were high 30's

Roger that!

thanks for those links! that evap looks like a good alternative. The MSA site drier is NLA, the 33318 is cheap and I think the one some of the other z suppliers are using (they mention that you need to move the copper tubing some to make it fit. The question I was having on the switch is the 33318 says a 1/4 npt fitting IIRC, so looking for a switch that fits that, going to be a bit of a crap shoot if I start ordering parts not being able to check fit. I see a lot of switches on ebay but they often seem to be low pressure cut off, not to easy to find a hi pressure cut off (as noted in the FSM) so the binary is just me looking at what is common (see those a lot). I am just going to wait for the drier to get here and call the link you gave on the switches, see how it goes. I have not installed any of the new parts yet, just looking for the leak. I went out a while ago and found a suspect looking spot (bright bit of dye on condenser) so maybe that is where it is. Thanks again for the help I will keep the group posted on how it turns out.

I am considering using a 33318 drier since the supply of 33286 (low intake port) driers is pretty much gone. I got the 33318 on the way but not sure of the correct switch. FSM says its a high pressure cut off, but I assume a binary would be fine. Any one know of a correct sized switch for the 33318? I got a NOS compressor (SWP) ready to go, have some dye in it now to see if there are any leaks around the condenser. It has a slow leak so will need to deal with it in a few months. I just hope its not leaking at the evap. My you tube channel is Dave WM https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMsHgfGwCVtyRrqXVtll-g

The real plus besides saving money is you can unscrew them before crawling on you back to get under the dash (that is when I always broke them off).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhHuAv4t-go Got those little door bumpers, after breaking them off for the umpteen time, I came up with this fix. Hope it helps someone.

the kind with the stitching running from to back. I am pretty sure the pass and driver are the same. Just need the cover not the whole seat. I bought a new set that looks nice, too nice, since the rest of the seat panels (pass bottom and back and driver back) looks very nice and the car is pretty much a survivor.

I think the battery is a good one, NAPA looks new, checks about 12.8v here is how it goes, starts quick everytime, amp meter swings to the pos for a few seconds then kicks down to just about the 0 (actually a bit positive since with everything off (bat disconnected) its sits just a bit to the neg so no centered). Voltage while running is around 14v drops down some as the AAR closes up but will hang in there at about 13.8 with no load, limits to about 14.5 when reved up. On come lights and AC, drops down to about 12.5v I took it back today in the car, they put a voltmeter on it, and as expected it does the same. So now I will get a replacement, just have to pull it out again. If that does not do the trick then I will see about replacing the diode pack on my old one. I don't recall having this issue with the orig alt, and that was with a dying diode pack (one of the diodes literally was out of the circuit, it had come loose but was not shorted, I guess the extra load on the others caused them to short out). The only down side to that plan is I don't know if the windings were smoked, hopefully not if the fuse link did its job right.

Another Idea, today I decided to check the total amp draw before starting, don't know why I have not done this already. KO (to energize the ignition), AC on (clutch/fan), head lights on, puts me on the scale of about 40 amps IF the amp meter in the car is accurate. This was just a guess since all I have is 0 to -60 amp, but base on the about 2/3 deflection I figure 40 amps. Given that kind of draw I guess its not surprising the alternator is struggling to keep up at idle. So is 40 amps the typical amp max amp draw? please chime in if anyone can do a like test with the built in amp meter. oh and just to eliminate the possibility of a VR problem I ordered a new one to try, but I am pretty sure the old one is ok as I went thru it and carefully set it up and based on the test using the field coil energized by a jumper with no real improvement at idle I don't think its the issue. When it come it I will try the new one anyway.

I think I will try taking the whole car down so they can test on the car (my guess is they read the voltage) then will get replacement. I almost talked them into in but one of the other counter guys insisted it was not the alt but the regulator. I know that is not the issue as stated in the 1st post but did not want to belabor the point. I may just replace the diode pack, would have done that in the 1st place but they did not have them stocked (back when I got the replacement alt).

ha went out to do some testing and it clearly says 160w yea! so at 12v 13amps, now I have something to compare to. I was getting about 130mv across the fuse, so that would indicate a .01 resistance if it is indeed 13 amps. I just don't have a meter that can read that low so I need to either get an amp meter that can go higher or try the wire trick or maybe I can google the typical resistance of a 20 amp buss fuse.

The fuse cover over the AC fan motor fuse was distorted (lightly melted). I replaced the cover and used the correct 20amp fuse. I installed a reman alternator a few months back after the orig unit shorted thru the diode pack, taking out the fuse link with in and killing the entire electrical system. With the reman alt in place everything works BUT with the lights and fan (AC) on at idle (800-1000 rpm) the voltage at the alternator is 12.5v and the amp meter shows a slight discharge. If I get above 1500 it will just keep up. I am pretty sure its not the regulator as I have jumped the field coil to the bat term (idle speed only to avoid over voltage) and I get the same voltage results, so I presume the reg is working (with rpm it limits to about 14.2v). I pulled the reman out and took it to 3 diff auto parts store to test, it "passed" and I assume that is under load. Thinking back to the melted fuse cover and the fact that the prob really only presents with the blower motor on makes me wonder if there could be an excessive amp draw, not enough to blow the 20 amp fuse but enough to get hot and perhaps draw down the voltage while at idle. I have no idea what the correct running current should be on the fan motor, but I am guessing the fuse is rated at twice the normal current, if that is the case then I would expect the max current thru the fuse at about 10 amps. I don't have an amp meter that goes over that (I have an old simpson 260 and a more modern digital but 10a is the max IIRC). so with that in mind I will try measuring the resistance of the fuse and check for a voltage drop across it, use ohms law to calc the current. The fuse may be to low a resistance to get a good reading on, if that happens I will look for a length of wire that I can get at least a .1 ohm reading on and use that.

When I got my Z a few months ago I noticed those clamp on style terminals (where you cut off the orig end and just replace that and not the cable). I tried to find a correct cable (4 ga with 2 assy terms one for the EFI and one for the chassis ground) but could not find one on line. I ended up going to advance auto and for about 15$ I got a 48" neg with the two leads that had crimp on ends attached. Cut it down to about 24" and removed the plastic on the crimp on ends so I could solder in the EFI and ground lead. Finished up with some heat shrink. Solder on copper lug for the connection at the starter mounting bolt. Looks a lot better and I hope will be trouble free (never know about the quality of the part in the 1st place but I figure it has to be better than that rigged up deal I started with).

Yep the video was just me rambling before I found a manual to look at. The manual you linked to was better than what I had found, thanks!