Dave WM

I think you may be right. I went back and checked the OE seat cover, there does seem to be evidence of material not unlike what was left on the rod shown in the picture (its pretty much gone but there is something in that seam). It was pretty much completely gone but something was there. So now I will have a reason to go back and try the flap out. It will of course NOT match as well to the existing other seat, which means I will just have to do the passenger as well. My orig intent was to leave that one be, since the match was so close. Seems odd they would have used a material for the stressed flap that would so completely disintegrate, but then again I am sure no one thought it would be on the road 40 years later.

pretty sure based on the pics I have seen.

here is the OE foam and seat cover, note there is a factory slot in the foam but no factory flap to fit into it. There was even a factory wire on the bottom that looked like it was there for connecting the flap, just not used. 1st pic was some test fitting of the cover and new foam on the seat frame. Last pic shows the OE cover bottom, no flap to be found. Middle two pics OE foam showing unused slot.

here are some pic comparing the pass (OE) and the driver (MSA)

note the orientation of my seats, Not sure how that will work. Did those style seats have an OE flap? that is what really threw me (no flap on OE).

One of my best tools is a rad pressure tester, great for finding leaks and testing rad caps.

I installed the bottom cover over new foam. I noticed there was a flap in the middle of the bottom and a corresponding slot (not cut all the way thru) on the foam bottom. I decided not to try and attach it thru the slot since the old OE cover did not use this attachment point (no middle flap). The seats look great, just wondering if others use or did not use the flap. It seemed like even if I was going to use it, the fit would be real tight, perhaps that is the way it suppose to be?

I assume you are using the temp gauge in the car. Have you confirmed its accurate?

yea I saw that, glad he got it worked out. The only component that I saw when I had my ign module apart that looked like it could give a problem is a single electrolytic cap, they do go bad can open or short, that could result in damage to a transistor. Other than that I cant see what could go wrong unless there was some kind of unloaded output or some kind of feed back pulse. what ever the case is I suspect the parts could be sourced and replaced.

I was being an idiot about the fuel pressure confusing vacuum and pressure readings, so all is good now. I hear you about the intermittent issue, I really hate those. I put a few miles on the brand new plugs, looking good (not getting fouled).

well there you go, the orig ECU worked fine from cold start to full operating temps. I left the replacement bolted in, so the orig was tested by just hanging on the connector, a good test for intermittent connections I suppose. It never missed a beat. I will leave the replacement in and keep the original as a backup.

Could be, one thing I did NOT try is wiggling the connector when it was acting up.

Put some new plugs in it, seems fine now with the replacement ECU. Will try the old one later. Still wondering about the fuel pressure, the plan now is to get some fuel line, enough to take the return line and feed it safely into a gas container. That would eliminate any "stuffiness" on the return side. See if that effects the fuel pressure. I will prob still end up popping for the OE pump just to take the strain off the rest of the fuel system.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-x-10-ft-protective-wire-wrap-66987.html

I will confirm the wires I have are indeed connected to the 11/26 pins on the 35 pin connector (just a continuity check from the bullets back to the connector) the wires exit from the connector right above where the wire harness goes into the socket, just hang there covered by the kick panel. Going to get some new plugs as well so I can do a check of the fuel mixture, I cleaned the old ones up, but not well enough to evaluate the air/fuel mix since they stained so dark now.

started car cold with replacement ECU, started right up ran fine. replaced ECU with the one that was a problem yesterday (still cold car), started right up ran fine. Left the replacement in, will drive car later and get up to full temp, then try the swap again. Anybody know what the two white wires that come out of the wire harness right at the 35 pin connector (they have bullet connectors) is for? I looked at the FSM and saw something that maybe it, control and checking term? two white wires that appear to go to the ECU pins 11 and 26. Nothing about them that I could find. update on 11 and 26 Search and found Capt O had mentioned injector signal test points on an earlier thread.

ZH that's the plan for tomorrow put the old one back together after mussing with it, other than the small carbonized looking junk I cleared off the one trace, no other action taken on it. I did try going back to it when I did the 1st swap, and the problem returned so I know it was ECU related. The only question now is did the action taken have any effect. I am REAL glad I had the extra ECU, typically that is the last place I would go to, and it prob would have driven me nearly mad checking all the usual suspects.

I am all over the place today

I have not tried putting it back in to see if messing with it may have fixed it. I have been focused on the AC, seems like It must be the check valve, I have 16-17 on one side and nothing on the other, so the vacuum bottle never gets pulled down. For now I just stuck a piece of tubing to join the two "S" lines together so my AC idle up and ducting servos all work again. I would like to try disconnecting the return line and feeding it into a gas container just to see if my theory of a stuffy return line could be influencing the fuel pressure. I am liking the idea of just popping for the OE pump that uses a built in regulator that limits the output to 45 psi (think that is what I read).

More thoughts, using an aftermarket pump (90psi) seems like it would put more of a burden on the FPR to return excess fuel thru the return line. I don't really know how to test the stuffiness of it (maybe that is in the FSM, seem to recall something on checking "stuffiness"). Anyway the lines are orig to the car, could be stuffy, I blew them out and they do pass air but still with the increased burden of the fuel high pressure fuel pump could this cause a limit to the max pressure regulation?

agree no issue. I put mine in a plastic loom just to make it seem neater, but not really needed.

hooked up my AC gauges, about neg 17-18 PSI so I guess the vacuum is good, could not see any movement in the needle but maybe that is because I used AC gauges (damped?). I should have check the vacuum AT the vacuum tank, I checked it at the nipple that feeds the line to the vacuum tank. I wonder if the FPR is working right, seems like my fuel PSI should have been closer to 20 than 30 with that much manifold vacuum. I will go on with the compression test just the same.

that was my 1st check Blue, it was right on the money at least at the bullet connector, I did not check a the ECU pins, So yes maybe a wiring issue but seems ok now with the replacement ECU.

guess I should do a compression test to rule out a valve that may be not fully sealing.

I checked them (the TO-3's) took two of the legs out of circuit, tested somewhat leaky but I don't think that is wrong for power transistors. were megs here. The tested exactly the same. I have some other T0-3 power transistors so will test to compare. I did see what looked like a carbon path between two traces, could not really get a good conductivity test on it. Put it back together will try tomorrow. New problem. while testing the fuel pressure I get 36 with no manifold vacuum, it starts fine and seem to run ok, but the FP only drops to 30psi. I have not checked the vacuum (need a new gauge, will get tomorrow) but should be interesting to see what the idle vacuum is. The FPR is working as I goose it the pressure comes up. Further complication on the vacuum, the AC idle up/vents stopped working, lose of vacuum. If I bypass the check valve and go directly to the vacuum tank it works but seems the restriction of the check valve is too much. All this is pointing a vacuum issue. Removing the valve cover cap causing the engine to stumble, same with the dip stick, but disconnecting the brake boost had little effect but not like you would expect. very odd. I did remove the PCV valve, cleaned it up and reinstalled (seemed fine) I wonder if I could have cracked the pipe to it? but that was at least a week ago and it was fine until last night. I can't hear any whistling or other obvious sounds of a leak. I am going to buy a cigar (don't smoke) and see if I can blow smoke into it and find a leak.