Dave WM

most def, MT-90 to the fill hole. I did manage to get it thru all the gears, and I did confirm the speedo cog was correct (50mph at 2500 rpm in 4th).

yep that's the ones. no joy on finding them by searching PN, NLA

well this sux, my second test drive I noticed a lot of gravely sounds, like bearing issues. I did NOT rebuild the trans just new seals, penny wise pound foolish. I don't know why I did not notice on the 1s test drive, prob the excitement of getting it done must have dulled my perception. So will have to commit to another long weekend to pull the trans and put the 4speed back in. At least I will not have to fool with the Clutch. You can feel the grinding noises thru the shifter, no noise in neutral, my guess is a bad bearing. The 4 speed was dead quiet. Not a total waste, I got good at the process, and had to replace the clutch and rear main anyway (leak).

found this posted by blue over at zcar looking for part 25 and 22, detail B

75 280z CA model, has a hanger that is just in front of the cat, think same on non CA, just sits in front of the resonator. all that was there was a bolt that was not really doing much as it would not stay on the mount ear of the transmission near the end of the tail shaft. on my hard copy of the FSM is shows a clip that goes under the middle of the trans and lock onto a bottom ridge. the clip then goes out to where the bolt fits thru the slot cut on the transmission ear. This effectively captures the bolt so it will not slide of the mount ear. the bolt secures the bottom hanger that is clamped to the down pipe just before the cat or resonator. I am missing this clip as well as what appears to be a top square with I presume a welded on bolt. the top square fits on top of the same sloted trans mount. I presume its a welded nut and the square part is captured in the hanger, so you don't have to get a wrench up there and hold it its Detail "C" of the exhaust system in the FSM where all the hangers are noted. I cant see any form of soft mounting so I assume all that hardware is just to make it possible to use the slot opening on the mount ear. I am pretty sure I can replicate this as it looks like just some steel bent up to fit. On the lack of soft mounting, I again assume that since the down pipe is hard mounted at the exhaust manifold flange, and the transmission is hard mounted to the engine, then there should be no engine torque effect between the two mount points. torque aft of the trans mount is handled by the soft mounts at the muffler. if anybody has any live pics that have more clarity than the FSM I would like to see them.

Test drive went great. clutch engages much sooner but still fully disengages for easy shifting. Its been a while since I had a MT car, perhaps this is normal (as clutch wears full engagement takes place later, seems like that would follow). The clutch action is very smooth, noticeable improvement. Speedo works but have not confirmed, but should be correct. Rev-3rd work smooth, could not get out of the block to try any higher gears, had to call of car work for work work and hurricane prep. Full testing will be done prob next week when I have some time to take it out on the freeway. over all a big plus

"So let it be written so let it be done" Ramses II the exhaust is in, just have to button up the cat heat shield, take care of the vapor line, and apply some of that rust encapsulator product on some of the surface rust noted on the bottom. will finish off with some under coat where it has flaked off. I noticed the clutch has a very light spring pressure, not sure if its less that what was there, just that I noticed it so prob is less, great for those 98 lb weaklings that get sand kicked in there faces at the beach (oh that does not happen anymore due to anti bullying these days, never mind).

not there yet, have to resist the urge to rush out. will go thru a final QC on all bolts etc.

Trans is in, starter and speedo hooked up, rev light hooked up. Still to go the shifter, pretty sure I can engage it from above so as not to pull the center console. Lessons learned.. Spend the 80$ at harbor freight for the trans scissor jack, made all the diff. I struggled for 2 hrs with my home made scissor contraption. buy some long bolts 10mm 1.5 cut off the heads and use them as alignment tools. I had on the top and one on the side. use those to put in the starter too. it prob took me 20min start to finish getting the trans to engage with the above setup.

status so far, hope to finish today..

yepper 1st thing I did when I got the trans. I had a 3.7 cog in it, popped for a 3.54 which is what I have. Clutch is in, got the old shifter out by just removing the knob and dropping it out, put the gator on the replacement trans, all set for a big day tomorrow. I still think I have a good shot at just leaving the shifter on and reversing the process.

had to scrap my nice Nissan seal, I ended up with a makeshift seating tool that ended up pushing it in to far. ended up at autozone got a felpro. was more careful and just used a block of wood tapping around the edges (after greasing up and rotating so as not to fold the lip). I could not resist getting a duralast clutch kit. it was in stock and I was there, so got it. I am sure its not the best but I drive like an old lady so I hopefully it will hold up ok, One of the mount holes was a tiny bit off making getting the bolt started a problem. I am looking for my rat tail now to fix that. the old clutch was just about done, the rivits were just barely below the surface, not even a hairs thickness. The rear main was leaking but I don't think it was all that bad, but I really have nothing to go on. will post up vids when done. the dura last has a lot of fingers unlike the exedy, not sure if that is important just a note. I am going to leave the bearing alone, its quiet and spins smoothly. Besides it prob better than the no name replacement. I was going to get the flywheel machined, but it looked very good with no scoring or burning, so I just used some 400 or so grit and block sanded it to rough up. cleaned all with brake cleaner (pressure plate and freshly sanded fly). Reinstalled the fly wheel with some blue locktite and worked up to 100ftlbs in a star pattern. I had a nice puller for the bronze pilot bush, so used that (very easy) and replaced after freezing and tapping in flush, then set it to the bottom of the bevel with a socket and a few gently taps. Transferred over the backup light, some wire clamping hardware, and the trans mount to the new trans. chased the starter motor threads, installed the clutch fork and TO bearing and put on a new boot. As soon as I find that rat tail I will finish up the clutch and then install the trans. I think I can leave the shifter installed and just snake it up the rubber boot and leather cover. I hope to be on the road COB Monday.

Trans is out, transferring stuff like clutch fork, mount looks iffy so will get a new one, have to see about that exedy looks like a good deal. My scissor jack setup worked well, I had to take it down it 2 stages since I had the car so high up, the jack did not have enough range. I used to small jack stands to get it down with some spacers on the scissor jack, then removed the spacers reset it and removed the jack stands (front and rear of trans) and lowered it the rest of the way. the inspection plate is covered with what looks like a thick blanket of tar, almost like under coating, from what I can see with the clutch still on. I presume this is engine oil slung around by the backside of the fly wheel. I am capturing video of stages but not the actual process, its hard enough to get it done, adding camera work is out of the question.

will do the shaft check 1st thing tomorrow, thanks for the tip. I did measure the length, look ok, a little hard to tell for sure since the old one has the dust cover on the tail shaft, but it looks like 30.5 from bell housing to tail shaft end. have the impact driver. I have seen where you leave one nut in until you get something under the flywheel to avoid dropping it. will see how that goes tomorrow as well.

good idea on the tire. I was doing some more reading, I plan to use studs on some of the bolt holes as alignment dowels during the install, get the trans hanging on those and then just wiggle the output spline if needed to slide it home. At least that is how the story goes. I am also planning to remove the vapor line while I have good access. Will take it out complete to use as a guide for bending up a new one. The old is hopelessly stuffy from rust. Something to work on while I wait for the clutch parts.

I have a leaking rear main (I assume, dripping engine oil from the weep hole in the bell housing) and a 5 speed from an 83 that I have been sitting on for over a year. With the long weekend I decided to pull the trigger and get started. Car is up on 4 12 ton jackstands with 6*6's under the wheels taking some of the weight, and backup floor jacks on the cross member and diff. Little possibility of a failure of all of them, so I feel safe. 1st up was the exhaust and all the heat shielding. the manifold to pipe was already loosened up so that was easy. the heat shield was no issue with a little PB to get things going. the exhaust turned into a bit of a pita, I could not undo the connection to the cat (cali car) and to get the heat shield out of the way I really needed something to give. I ended up undoing the muffler mounts at the rear, and the single bolt at the trans near the middle. with that done I was able to completely drop the entire exhaust. only thing left is a sensor of some kind at a cat bung. this thick wire cable goes up under the passenger seat and terminates into a two conductor plug. Not sure what its for, its on the back side of the cat. anyway with that moved over I was able to clear the shield. while there I took the time to tighten up the hand brake, just a few turns to take up some slack. I just did now want to forget that, its impossible to get at with the shields in place. Next the drive shaft to diff bolts. This was interesting I ended up getting a box wrench in behind the sway bar and on the nut side. with the box in place I was able to turn the entire drive shaft in a way that would catch the box wrench on the underside of the car and turn the nut. once loosened this way it was very easy to turn the drive shaft to get the nut at 12 o clock making it easy to remove by fingers only. Marked the drive shaft and diff with some paint to get it back in the same way, pulled it, baggy applied to tail shaft to catch gear lube, and shaft out. unplugged the reverse light, backed off the speedo drive, loosened the trans mount, put a jack with a 2*6 under the oil pan put a jack under the trans and tested to make sure I could get the big trans mount bolts out (with load off they came out easy). Called it a day, will disconnect the battery and starter tomorrow and hopefully get the trans out and then the flywheel. I have not bought any clutch parts, I really wanted to look them over esp the flywheel to see if I need new or resurface the old. I am leaning on resurfacing the old, figure its OE and maybe better quality than new stuff on ebay. the Clutch seems fine so I am thinking of just replacing the friction part and the maybe the pilot bush if it seems worn at all. I hope to get as far as the OE seal in by no later than Sunday, but if not Monday is fine too since I will have to wait for next week to get the flywheel machined. oh and a new pressure plate, I realize its part of the clamping just like the fly wheel surface.

415 BK sweep gen with markers for IF AND color alignment I wonder how they would like 44mhz!

That's a nice setup ZH. Were you able to resolve the flow differences by some cleaning technique?

those approaches look very easy, will give that a try before I disconnect all the fuel lines.

ZH, I have some new o rings to install so that will be done. Capt, maybe but I did check it with a spark tester (the kind that flashes) never had any indication of missing spark JSM, thanks I will let you know. At this point I am pretty much committed to pulling them for testing at least, and prob cleaning. I know I should flow check before I get cleaned will come down to how much time I have to mess with doing a setup. I presume the shop I take it to will do a flow test and give me the results, prob is I will not know if 1&3 were the problem.

I will look into that if the injector service does not resolve it. I just made two videos #1 with the miss and #2 looking much better. I have already confirmed its not a spark issue by using one of those spark gadgets, so I know its getting ignition. Compression was checked and ok as well. I can hear the injectors clicking away, so I presume its not an electrical issue to the injector coil, so by process of elimination I think it has to be something impeding the flow not as designed, presumably dirt or some other blockage.

I have a pressure vessel that is used for flushing AC parts, I can use it with a regulated air pressure supply to supply fuel. Also have 6 injector plugs that I can wire up to activate. will use 6 separate vessels to capture flow to evaluate.

the thing that was getting me was the higher apparent drop out rate of 1&3 as well that seems to be more related to the miss I am having. they all would black out sometimes (consistent RPM a noted random period when no fire was seen). I am guessing it was just too lean to support a combustion cycle.

IIRC pulling the injectors requires removal of the fuel rail. As such it seems in the interest of science it would be a good opportunity to hookup a fuel supply at 30 psi and do my own flow test prior to professional cleaning. I am hoping to replicate the imbalance of 1&3 to confirm the colortune as a viable approach to diagnosing flow issues, esp at idle duty cycle rates.