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Dave WM

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Everything posted by Dave WM

  1. Indeed, I had ended up melting some solder into a aftermarket wood shifter I had to alter the weight. odd noise went away. I assume its some kind of resonant frequency (Kenneth), that was happening in my setup.
  2. water temp switch on my 75 Cali car was for the EGR system. It is disabled during warm up with an electrically controlled vacuum source. I have had a few of both the thermotime as well as the temp switch. Most of the used ones did not function. I presume corrosion was the factor. The temp switch in my case was a NC below 140f IIRC, I ended up making my own with an old housing and a new temp controlled reed style switch, epoxied into place. I think the main problem I had finding a new temp switch was most were NO at below 140f and would close once the engine would warm up. Not what the EGR wanted. I think on others the temp switch had to do with switching the dual coil distributer pickups for different advance one full temp was achieved.
  3. for me it was going back to steel rims and new tires. I never tried the new tires on the slotted alum mags, so it may have been just a defect in the old tires. I have the orig struts (the stock rebuildable ones) on the front and some non gas filled carts on the back. I have ZERO vibration at any speeds. My guess is the tires, I may go back to the slotted mags if I lose another wheel cover, I have thrown 2 now and its getting aggravating.
  4. looks like you lined up the hole in the new bushing with the oil gutter correct?
  5. I don't know if it matters, but you may want to look into if its ok mount the drier on an angle. I don't ever recall seeing anything other than straight up and down with that style, there may be a reason for that.
  6. one thing I wish I had done when I had mine apart would have been to put the main shaft on some V block when it was stripped down, then take some run out measurements. I don't recall if the FSM has a spec on that, but I have done some research on this and now know that they can be bent, and straightened if needed by a machine shop. they just lay it up in a jig and apply pressure, sounds easy but I presume its not as easy as it sound.
  7. I wonder if the 280z has more leg room, I am 6'3 and have plenty of leg room with the seat in the rear most position.
  8. look out for shims on the countershaft bearing used to space it correctly on the front plate. Sometimes they get stuck to the front plate with some oil, but can get lost.
  9. the web site is clunky, there should be another shipping option. IIRC it defaults to that expensive ship option.
  10. vacuum will be effected by warm vs cold engine and ign timing as well.
  11. and I have a video for that! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsaP95p4q88&ab_channel=DaveWM
  12. I thought at some point you had swapped the injector connector and the problem stayed with #1?
  13. I too agree with ZH and an air leak at an injector o ring. I suggest you seal up the intake at the entrance to the AFM and smoke it out using the brake vacuum port. You dont even need an expensive smoke machine, just a cheap cigar and puff the smoke in. Look for the smoke. I found I had missed an o ring this way. I can not recall the problems I was having with the car at the time, or if they were the same as you are currently having. But it was def a running issue.
  14. This is where a "color tune" plug would come in real handy, lets you see inside the combustion chamber while its running. If they were not so darn expensive I would have 6 and use them anytime I was diag a problem with fuel mix/spark. With one you can observe the problem cylinder then compare to a know good cylinder. Two would be easier just look at them and compare. All 6 is overkill but would be cool just to see if how the mix is on all at the same time.
  15. thats it, 15$ on the website FAS-01
  16. really dont recall, smallish vendor datsun specialist. sells the whole shabang, including the hard to find long skinny one. If I run across it I will post up. it was a few years ago. pretty reasonable too IIRC. oh and they were NOT stainless either.
  17. I used thread seal. I too never had a leak until I used BRAND NEW bolts, then even with anti-seize, it leaked. So Z Kars, were the bolts new or used (with residue of some kind on them) enquiring mind would like to know.
  18. never mind, ZKars was able to follow.
  19. mov would not work for me. That being said hope you dont break off the skinny bolt that goes back to the block. they frequently seize there and snap off. If that happens you will need to pull the front cover making it a much bigger job. I would try what ever trick you know to see if you can remove them with out breaking.
  20. check it (resistance) at the ECU connector, that will verify the harness connections. IIRC its pin 13 to ground, but check your fsm to be sure.
  21. fyi I went back and looked at the fsm, the device in line between the overflow tank and the canister is indeed a check valve so you should check by injecting smoke at the fuel nozzel not the tube at the canister. You prob inject smoke at the fuel filler, should confirm that the smoke goes to tje canister line, if smokes then clamp it off and add some pressure to the tank (again at the filler neck), I would not go over just a few psi though. OR if you are pretty sure you found it I guess you could just go for a retest.
  22. well you will have to build pressure in the tank before very high resistance, you should not go overboard, just a few PSI really. the line from the canister could be blocked (mine was with rust on the metal line under the car) completely. This presents as a whoosh of compressed vapors when you open the fuel cap on a hot day. There is a considerable about of restriction from on that line from the canister to the overflow tank. IIRC there is a small restricter right at the end of the rubber tube near the canister that chokes down the opening, and there is a special designed device near the over flow tank as well. IF you can fill the tank with with out any issues when filling up with gas, and you get no whoosh when opening the tank on a hot day, then you likely have venting. the question is does the line from the canister to the overflow tank work as it should. Smoking out seems the only way to find a gross leak. Low pressure and smoke should find it.
  23. I think so, but it seems more logical to use the same approach as the tech did, since its that test that will count. IIRC the restriction device works both ways, but more restriction on way than the other. So I would stick with the hose in the filler neck, with a damp rag sealing it up while the same canister hose clamped off as done during the test. I must say i am impressed by the through testing done in your state.
  24. you may want to take look under car, rear pass side, look to make sure the rubber line from the overflow tank is even hooked up. On my car the hard line was rusted closed so to keep the tank from over pressurized the rubber hose had been removed (venting directly into the air). Maybe someone did the same "fix" to yours... IF the hard line is rusted closed you may want to look into removing just the bottom most section, that is likely where the rust is. Much easier to just patch in a replacement there than trying to replace the entire hard line.
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