sweatybetty

looks nice. how did you get the steering wheel looking so good? i am trying to refinish mine right now.

this has to be one of the funniest videos ive ever seen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3IDhKtkui8

loose or corroded connections will cause voltage drop that could be part of the problem also. without the linkage connected, there is no load on the motor, so it will turn normally.

that's rusted out.

perfect! thank you

does anyone have a close-up picture of the rear hatch weatherstripping? i want to make sure i put it on correctly thanks all sb

hey guys, while reading up on headliner installation, i came on this thread im looking at buying the interior plastic panel kit. im wondering if this guy Les is ok to buy from? anyone dealt with him lately? thanks all sb

just ordered a set from here http://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/weather-strip-seal-rubber-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-quarter-glass-front-seal-set

i didnt know there is a hole in the drum. the only adjustments ive ever seen were through the back plate. this is my first import

that i do not know. my friend has a couple of stacks of them, and let me pick through.

im curious as to how this is done.

hey all! my 72 has no seals on the front side of the frame-to-door. today i picked up a couple of used quarter window frames that have a rubber seal on the door side.whats up with that? the z store http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a09/34-1016 says it wasnt a factory seal? can anyone clarify this? thanks all sb

acetone is commonly used for thinning paint. it should do what you want. i dont think it will hurt the dash.

what is wrong with the poly?

offer $750. if he says no, walk away. the only thing i see that looks good is the dash, and it looks like it is capped

10 steps forward, 5 steps back. ive been powder-coating all the door parts and trying to get everything ready for weatherstripping. for some reason, the right hand door would not line up correctly no matter what i did. it turns out that the door was 1/8" longer than the drivers door. so..........5 steps back. all after spending the past week and a half buffing and polishing. this door lines up perfectly with no shims. the other had 4 and was still off

i got a little side-tracked about since my last post. i decided to spend a day cleaning the shop after the cold weather was over. that led to a 4 week project. all of this stuff was in the way, so adding on 12x20' to the back of the shop gave me some working room

i wonder if the voltage gauge would fit where the amp gauge is in a 72? anyone seen that?

hey guys. im trying to get my doors adjusted both up and down and side to side. how much gap should i have on the side closest to the rear of the car? thanks all sb

here is a good read on voltage drop http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uses/comunidad/fluke-news-plus/articlecategories/electrical/diagnosevoltdrop

im curious. is that for a single strut, or the dual strut hatch?

if you get all that epoxy? cleaned off, soldering those fittings back on correctly is a cakewalk.

im curious as to why they dont fit? mine fit with 14x6 wheels. what doesnt clear?

http://www.stocktonwheel.com/

you can also use a socket of the right outside diameter. works just as good as a hole punch.