sblake01

Sounds like you need to go through the cold start system. Thermotime Switch, Cold Start Valve, Air Regulator. Also check the temperature sensor. Sometimes, it's just a case of bad connections. If the cold start valve operates (bad thermotime switch) or leaks (bad cold start valve) after the car starts, that would account for the richness and difficulty accelerating. Do you have a Factory Service Manual?

As Tommohawk said go to http://zhome.com and look for their 'index of technical articles.' In there you should find a couple of good write-ups on tuning S.U. carbs.

Click on 'User CP' and then 'edit profile.' Scroll down to 'additional information' and you can add your location from there.

Well, I said freeze plug because in the pictures it appeared to be coming from inside the mounting plate. If it was coming from the other mentioned sources wouldn't you be able to see evidence of coolant leaking on the mounting plate instead of just at the bottom?

Freeze plugs on the rear of the engine? That wouldn't be good news since the tranny would have to come out to replace them.

As they have told me on a few occasions :classic:

Yeah but everytime I've seen something like that in a junkyard they wanted some stupid amount of money for it.

Being a 75, it has a voltmeter. What reading do you get when it's running? Should be above 12 approaching 14 when it's running which would indicate that the charging system is working properly. Should stay around 12 volts when the car is turned off. If not, the battey is either not fully charged or bad. Check these things after charging the battery.

Not being a scotch drinker (or any other alcoholic beverage for that matter) I'm unfamiliar with the term 'single malt.' But when my father was alive, his favorite scotch was Chivas Regal.

Dave, I've always loved the look of your car. Your add-ons and upgrades seem to go together very well. Looks to be painted the 350Z Blue. How come you've got Cali plates in Texas?

I let out just enough water to drop the level below the water neck. Check your Thermotime switch. It should only show continuity when cold. It's easy to check. Just cut of a connector with a couple of inches of wire from a junkyard car. Connect a volt meter to the Thermotime switch (on the car) and check for continuity.

No, but I've tried working in the bay of an Infiniti J30 and it can't be any worse! Give me an S30 any day.

Take it from someone who has given up TWO early 240Zs (70 & 72) AND a Datsun Roadster. KEEP THE Z! I also had two 510s but I don't miss them nearly as much. If your Z is in good workable condition, it can be made to be reliable. I depend on my 79 810 Coupe on a daily basis and my 280Z always starts and runs whenever I call on it. I know they're newer than your car but they're still over 25 years old. They can be dependable.

No, at least not in California. But there is a space on the pink slip for 'year first sold'. But sometimes there is a date there and sometimes it is just left blank. That is just one item on a long list of things that I have never understood about the California DMV system.

Also, this issue has been mentioned in several other threads. Crap in the tank will hamper the performance of a carbureated car and virtually stop a fuel injected car. Been there, done that. Seven years ago, I was lucky enough to find a known-to-be-good used tank and replaced my clogged-up-from-sitting-four-years tank with it.

I guess I should have been clearer. First of all, the book is wrong, they are not the same. When I said they'll fit I should have said that they'll bolt onto the car. Mr. Camouflage nicely clears up the rest of what I was trying to imply.

The first attachment shows the 6 spokes. They're not bad, no curb rash, but they do have some small blemishes in them. The knock-offs don't come with them but they do have four good 'Z' caps. The second attachement shows the Iron Cross rims. The are polished and look quite good and come with the four center caps shown. I could look into shipping but I'd have to find boxes for them maybe at a custom wheel shop. It has been my experience that the shipping would cost more than the wheels and that's why I would really prefer to deal with someone local.

They will fit, but like I said, it would be like putting station wagon springs on a coupe.

They way I go about things sometimes, they might still be here by next years MSA show!

Wouldn't be us if we didn't :classic:

Well, like I said Bosch Platinum are my preference. All plug manufacturers make claims. You race, IIRC, so those things would be far more important in your case than in my occaisionally driven street vehicles where I don't think the melting point or the stength of the material would ever really come into play.

Victor has it right. The 'P' stands for projected tip and was used in the carbureated cars. I've always used Bosch Platinum in my Datsun engines but that is just my personal preference.

Well, they didn't cost me that much to begin with (1/2 price sale at Pick A Part) and I did the polishing myself. I don't presently have a use for them, I need to clear some space in my garage, and I figured they'd look better on someones car than stacked in a corner.