dogma420

Help, if possible! I have never replaced a master cylinder before....done all the other items on the brakes many times before.... Can anybody explain the procedure? I just bought a new m.c. from MSA. Thanks, Dog

Hey all, hows everyone? I'm doing good, except my 72 240 4speed has been sitting about 2 months....I know that the clutch isn't 100% perfect, and I've been meaning to replace it (i have a new one in the box, waiting for a 5 speed to come in the mail...) Anyways, I went out to drive it around the block as normally I do, Just haven't lately (in 2 mo) because the carbs need to be synchro'd and I'm lazy... anyways, the clutch is what seems to be completely disengaged. I can shift into any gear and it appears to be in neutral, or with the clutch pedal pushed all the way in. The slave / braided cable / master for the clutch has all been replaced within last year, and when you look at the fork, it moves back and forth when someone presses on the pedal. Is this needing replacement, or is there anyway to 'clank' it back to running down the road? Anyone else had this problem, clutch doctors out there? Thanks in advance, Dog

Hello everyone! I'm thinking about coil overs, but have no clue.... Since it is cartridges all the way around, do you convert to macpherson struts at all 4 corners? ie. get front strut cartridges, and cut the outer strut housing and weld the coil overs? I'm under the impression that the chapman struts on the rear don't have cartridges.... Any help before considering getting coil overs would be great! 10/71 240z (1972) stock. 2 door

My 72 could use a new one, ...it's in perfect condition from the outside.... ...has anyone considered rebuilding one? If so, please respond....I would think this is the cheaper route, but I've never heard of anyone taking one apart and rebuilding.....

Thanks a lot for the answers guys, ok, so the points replacement from Pertronix sounds good. If I'm just going to get a replacement stock distributor, should I get the European one (that MSA sells)? It is slightly advanced. Also, after the distributor, what does everyone suggest for the best coil combo? I'm using NGK stock spark plugs / high pro wires from MSA. Thanks for all your suggestions!!!!

Hey all, thanks for reading. I have a 100% stock 10/71 '72 240z, only mod on motor right now is the smog belt is off. (and froze subsequently since). I see everyone with all smog stuff off, and was wondering what books if any are recommended for making a Z real clean lookin the carb area, with all the smog items removed. I already have no water going through the manifold. Any and all recommendations would be appreciated. Heres some rambling: 1. All the stuff that goes to the smog pump, can all of that just be removed, and the holes in the manifold, etc. be capped? I am going from the stock orange air filter housing to 2 k&n style filters, with no coolant going through the manifold. It doesn't matter to me if I keep this manifold...It has a 88 head on it, can I go with the non water cooled manifolds from earlier Zs or are they just for the E31? I'm assuming a small breather filter will be put on the head breather hole that would normally run into the air filter housing, and the line for the pcv valve stays intack. 2. My distributor is worn out (30+ years, the shaft is loose like an old whore)....I'm definitely thinking non points...thinking a fully electronic w/out mech advance would be the way to go.....has anyone tried just putting a points style dist back in, and using the cheapo looking point conversion kit like MSA sells, that puts a infrared type doohickie in there to eliminate the points? Its so cheap, I wonder if it really works worth a darn.... 3. Lastly, I get some strong gas smell from the gas inlet right after filling up, so I'm replacing the entire inlet hose on the gas tank, taking out the tank and cleaning up. In this situation, should all the evap lines be replaced or is it possible to just cap all that stuff? I'd rather do that. Any info, much appreciated....sorry for cross posting diff questions but rambling is a disease -Dawg dogma420@hotmail.com

the carpet behind the seats has never 'extended' under the seats on 240s. there should be some of that jute material under there but stock, no there never was anything.

That's just it...time has gotten to these panels, and unlike black that I've had in other zs, these 31 year old panels are all in pieces....definitely not worth refurbishing....but i appreciate the feedback! Thanks everyone.

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it. One other thing, any confirmation on the 3 point seat belts from a '73 240z fitting into the stock holes in my early '72 (11/71)...there are retrator holes in the floorpan behind the seats....but I have lap belts...want the 3 point stock belts or reproductions... ...any info would be welcome! Thanks!

$375 + 10%? That's quite a bit for plastic, but if it's the only place to get white plastic, I guess it is reasonable.

Forgot, my rig is an early '72 240z, all original, other than side view mirrors from MSA. I'll post pictures soon....Creme 'Cicle is a cute car, I get compliments all the time!

Hello all, this is my first post to this forum, I have the orange (red 110) with white interior, with the car's name "creme sickle" (orange on the outside, white on the inside). Anyways, I am in the market to get all new plastic panels in the rear area. I am aware that white isn't readily available. What are some suggestions? I am thinking of getting all back and have them coated with white paint or white leather, etc, not sure what to do, but I do know I want NEW panels, no used white ones, even in good condition... ...any suggestions?