Matthew Abate

Update: I made a decision on my fuel system today, at least for the medium term. I got a very sweet deal on an N36 intake manifold, but it didn't have the gargantuan 260Z balance tube, so I scrounged around, located, and pulled the trigger on a Euro-spec E41 balance tube for about the same money I've seen the US-spec E46/E88 ones of for. Not a bad bit of internet shopping, if I do say so myself. I also have a set of 1972 SUs laying around that I grabbed at the imports show in Pennsylvania last year. I had intended to use them to familiarize myself with the SU carbs in case I want to rebuild the set on the L24 that I pulled out of my car, but now the plan is to rebuild the extra set and mate them to this intake setup described above. The implications are as follows: This system requires me to go smog-system free, which is okay by NJ-emissions standards, but makes me feel a little guilty. I probably won't be going with the triple-Mikuni system I was considering. That's okay because I'm saving at least $1,800 and haven't seen definitive data on any gains that system supposedly provides. The engine bay will be cleaner The character of the car will be closer to original The expense was small enough that I can still change my mind and resell these parts without it hurting This makes my exhaust-header options much more straight forward --- I feel really good about this direction. The parts are in the mail, so I'll let you know how they look when they arrive. --- A few things left to figure out later: Do I go with a mechanical fuel pump (the consensus for L24s and L26s is yes, but this is an L28)? How will I set up these carbs? Do I install the larger fuel lines I would have needed for the Mikuni system anyway?

I know this thread is a little old, but I have a clarifying question: Were the Atsugi and Ampco pumps designed with the donut/disk diaphragm rod that was used in the Nikki pumps, or did they use the t-shaped diaphragm rod from the Kyosan Denki pumps? I read in this thread that the Kyosan Denki pumps are replacement pumps that never came installed from the factory (unless I read that wrong), so I assume that all of them use the same rod shape as the Nikki and only the Denkis use the t-shaped rod. Edit: I also just found out that there are two different diaphragm-rod diameters, which makes it even harder. Ultimately the only rebuild kits available are for Kyosan Denki pumps, so I think that might be the way to go. I also noticed that none of the Kyosan Denki pumps I'm seeing on the internet have the staple in the diaphragm tab.

I think I have 16 hours of mandatory metalwork, max. I really just need to get the floor welding finished. The rotisserie is more for stripping the underside of the car than welding, but since I still have some I'm thinking get it hung before I finish it. Technically, I could do everything without one, but I'm thinking of going around all the seems and stiffening up the car and it would just be easier to do it standing up.

Are you talking about a shop, a restorer, or just someone with a lot of experience? I haven't found one myself. I've found that this and other forums, plus Google, are enough to allow me to do it myself.

Okay, so here's the plan on moving this forward, since I just got our property tax bill: Strip what parts I can reach without lifting the car Buy a rotisserie in late February Drop the suspension Weld everything that's is just tacked or stitched up solid Strip all of the paint off the car Send it of to get the remaining paint media blasted off if necessary Body Sealer Have the body shop evaluate the metal Epoxy primer Put it on ice for a few months Work on the suspension while I save money

I've been digging around the internet for the best deal on a rotisserie and this is what I have found (I am not really considering lifts without jacks but might go there if I have to. I am not considering making a rotisserie for a variety of reasons, even though I am certain I could make a fairly nice one on my own, so save your breath). In every case I will need to buy or fabricate the brackets that attach the rotisserie to the car, so I did not factor in those costs. After comparing a ton of them I have four finalists listed in descending order by price: AutoTwirler Elite — $1,837.77 ($1,285.00 + $552.77 Shipping to NJ) via JMC Automotive Equipment This has some really nice features, notably a screw to adjust the T-arm for correct center of gravity and 3" tubing, but it's not worth the price after shipping so it is off the table. Redline ROT3K — $1,406.49 ($1,199.50 + $82 shipping + $124 for lift gate service) This is pretty much what I want. It's really similar to the auto twirler, but a bit less expensive, powder coated, and made out of 3" tubing. Summit Racing Rotisserie — $1,308.97 ($1,159.97 + $149.00) Pretty much the same as the Redline one above. Weaver W-Rotisserie — $1,195.00 (free shipping) Comes with lots of extra goodies, including door bars, but none of the brackets will work on our cars so they are kind of a waste. I'm not sure I need the door bars, either. I DO like the crank they have for rotating the car, but I think if the center go gravity is dialed in that becomes unnecessary. It's also the only one in this list that doesn't have the balancing screw. Eagle Equipment Adjustable Height Rotisserie Lift — $1084 ($895 - 5% military discount + $128 Shipping to NJ + $140 for lift gate service) from manufacturer Might be okay. It has a screw for adjusting the center of gravity for the T-arm, but this one is 2.5" tubing. Tuxedo CR-3000 — $995.00 (free shipping) via Best Buy Auto Equipment Looks kind of rickety, but everyone who sells them says they never get complaints, and I don't see any bad reviews. I expect that this will come with hardware that needs to be replaced. It's also 2.5" tubing.

Yeah, totally agree. Funny because I think the complete wide body kit looks alright, for a wide body kit anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I had some down time at work today, so I did a quick photoshop mockup of what the Rocket Bunny Pandem Fairlady front valance could look if they made a narrow body version. I had been considering having a 3D designer make me a CAD file of this… (Original photo) ... but now I'm thinking that I don't love it as much as I thought I would.

Time.

Title says it all. I'm looking for a complete variable height rotisserie with jacks to get my car ready for paint and am trying to save money by not buying a brand new one. Please PM me with the make, model, and your shipped price to 07040.

I wish they were louvres. I was thinking they looked pretty rad when I looked at that picture on my phone, but that is the mat I bought to stand on when I am welding. Maybe someone should use that as inspiration to make some!

Did this this week. There are plenty of write-ups on this subject so I'll just keep it to photos. And a shot of some of the nice burns I got from the one place I didn't have well protected during upside down welding:

The photographs make them look crazy long. I haven't decided if I'm going to buy or make one yet, but this length issue will probably determine that Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I can't find any information about how much additional length a rotisserie (of any brand) adds to the length of the car. I have a fairly short garage with a workbench on one end, so I need it to be less than 22' to work, and that's with no room to walk around it. Does anyone have one mounted up that they could measure for me?

That and the domes for the CR I wanted. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I wonder where the ad about the guy not waiting for you to help him with his flat is? Definitely go into every situation assuming you need a gun. Good idea.

About 55ccs Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Update:

The Pistons were designed to fit into a p90 head combustion chamber so that it will yield a compression ratio between 9.8:1 and 9.9:1. I don't have the cam specs readily available, but will share them later. We were going to go with Isky, but after 13 weeks of communication headaches we are going (I think) with Comp Cams.

Forged. Carbs, not turbo. Trial fit looks right on so far.

Update:

Block work has started.

Looks like crap but it's in. Good thing it's not structural and will be covered by carpet. I had forgotten to turn on the gas until half way. Smooth after I realized that, but clearly I need a check list.

How many gallons did you use? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's an interesting thread on lizard skin and sound deadening: http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=933436