dutchzcarguy

Many years ago I HAD THE SAME... I knew the engine ran fine with it and only one spring.. so i left it that way and ... till today it's running with one spring. 1971 feb. 240z. I often wondered could it be that it runs better with just one spring? Never experimented with it..

They think they are.. Years ago i was looking youtube on my big screen and high end stereo.. A Braun commercial cept comming through.. Then it is simple, i have made a promise, NEVER EVER BUY SOMETHING FROM BRAUN!! If we all do that, when a commercial is so damn interfering, there comes a time it will stop.. 😊 Another brand that came very close was Bosch.. so next time a Makita? hahaha..

I think.. someone bought a new engine (with the message: no oil in this one) and installed the cover of the replaced engine and now the new engine's cover was obsolete.. and has that sticker still on. Aitoku is a firm that deals in engines probably? btw. my 1979 280zx has also a yellow flaky valvecover, it's still original.. nothing done to it yet.. (if you ask me these were coated with some blank paint)

Maybe you can take off the front cover without taking the head off.. there are some spots were oilpressure is on it.. put in some new (selfmade of paper) gaskets.

Typical dutch name PIET .. he was Dutch you know... It was actually Mondriaan.

USED... I got a set NEW IN ORIGINAL BOX.. bought them in a package of many parts years ago, they are now worth the price of the whole package.. there where a lot of bodyparts like fenders and trunklid/hoods in that package. 10 years ago bought a 5 speed gearbox for a 280zx, they are now selling them for 20 times! the old price! (really, bought one for 75 euro and now they askt 1500 for them! used!!)

Hahaha ... yes we also call it a "bus" overhere! schoolbus is also a schoolbus ! 👍

Yes, that's him! The only one that comes up is the partridge-family.. that show was also seen in the 70's over here.. they also drove a big station car i believe.. not sure.

No idea what your talking about.. Keep it, it's there for good reason..

Eeeehhmmmm... I still don't know what this is about.. what was the name of that sitcom.. (i guess..) ?? 🙊 the older guy looks familiar but no.....

Then that was a good guess of mine.. 11 teeth.. The bigger (64) ones are still very good.. I plan to make them myself.. at least one.. but i got many other thing still to do so i don't know when i shall do that.. and no, sorry i got a perfect 280zx just no working clock and i'm not selling my 2 defect clocks..

I was looking for one for years.. they all have the same problem (i have 2 now) .. They all need a very small (11 teeth?) gear.. sitting just in the middle of the clockwork. But where can i get these damn small gears.. the old ones crumble between your fingers.

I hav'nt had that but if you ask me.. the speed in loading a page is become slower and i get EVERY time i go to another page a big advert in the lower part of the screen which is VERY anoying.. 🙄 ... sorry what? oh it's called progress.. 🤢

Yes... it's recommended to do it just once and check everything, otherwise you end up braking down time after time and.... Get the (correct!!) servicemanual for your car! then you can see for yourself how it comes out and gets in.. (serv.man. are at www.xenonzcar.com ) And.. yes the tab should be in the slot..

I wanted to ad.. why all those gardenhose clamps, get yourself some good (original) clamps. they are much better. Those are used in planes for good reason.

Over here, THIS is the sofa on wheels.. And.. yep, this gem is mine.. Ps. the spot under it is water.. i've never seen a goldwing with oil under it! you'll need a italian or english bike for that ! 😁

Sorry for going off topic.. for answers on slick50: go to thread: slick 50 in datsun gearbox.

This thread, is about gearoil and the aditiv Slick50 that came out in the 90's? Some stuff that has PTFE in it.. After 20 years of driving a 5 speed (30000km) the gears are making a lot of shifting noise.. again.. Going back from 4 or 5 to 2th is almost impossible to do. @Pilgrim you askt: Are you double - clutching your downshifts? I sure would be. It greatly reduces the work of the sync rings. I do it now by reflex on my ZX. I drive z and zx now for almost 30 years and never double clutched gears.. i have tried it with my problem gearbox but it's so bad it does not help much.. the gears seam to be rolling long after i activated the clutch.. from another thread, @Zed Head ZED HEAD sayd: I remember. It has PTFE particles in it to minimize friction. Synchros need a balance between friction and viscosity to allow the speed matching to occur. If you want to take a chance with $50 I'd try the AC Delco Friction-modified Synchromesh before tearing the transmission down. I'd just let the other stuff drain out and refill with Synchromesh. Otherwise, there's a post on Hybridz about modifying Porsche synchros to work in the steel synchro 5 speeds. I think that FS5C has steel instead of "brass" (yellow). https://slick50.info/manual-gearbox-treatment/ http://skepdic.com/slick50.html https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/press-releases/1996/07/quaker-state-ads-slick-50-are-false-and-misleading-ftc-charges https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/92246-to-people-with-experience-with-the-datsun-comp-5-speed-need-parts-for-one/ zedhead says: Slick50. Based on how synchro gears work, that seems like a not-good choice for transmission fluid. Yes i agree, now after 20 years the slick50 stuff with it's PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) is much to "slick" for the datsun gearboxes.. If i go back some gears i can hear clearly how the gears are still spinning after a few seconds hitting the clutch! After that i push the lever carefully in the direction of the gear i want to get shifted into and it will without any bad noises. It is absolutly possible that a refill with proper GL-4 oil could make a big difference.. As my 240z is at the moment in storage i will test this next year.. (Next year my 240z will be 50 year old and doesn't need anylonger a APK (a dutch MOT.) it's... if you ask me crazy but true.. ( In the Netherlands cars over 50 are so good they don't need a check for safety... but that's a different story.) Zedhead also sayd (in other thread): Pennzoil's brand seems to work just as well. Internet has it that Pennzoil developed the formula for GM (AC Delco). I wonder how Dutchzcar managed to find Slick50 in The Netherlands. If the ac delco is like pennzoil , i could try that. The slick50 was for sale at a dutch autoparts store.. (were i get all my oils and stuff.) The gearbox i use here is a FS5C71B, (orig 5 speed euro 240z gearbox) it's about 50 years old and Never restored or taken apart.. i know it's got the Porsche synchro's in it. (I don't know it those are brass or steel.. i somehow think i seen some in brass somewhere...)

Yeah.. paint thinner i could try.. maybe fill the gearbox with diesel might work to..? I wanted to ad.. if i go from 4 to 2th realy slowly it works without the horrible noise.. i can feel and hear the turning of the gears and hear them stop..(i push the lever against 2th gear but don't go into 2th) then i can shift into 2th without noise. But i think a new set of sinchromeshes would be the best solution.. but where do i find those for a FS5C71B? (euro 5 speed 240z box)

I once experimented with a 5 speed gearbox that would'nt go from 4 to 2th gear without a lot of noise.. i put in SLICK50 does someone here know that stuff? The gearbox is now after ~30000km again a problem shifting from 4 to 2th or even to 3th.. I ask myself, how can i get the oil AND! the SLICK50! out of there to test an other oil. (before taking it apart and get new sinchro's in? It's a FS5C71B so a very rare gearbox with rare sinchromeshes..)

For a 240z in the US. version.. A euro version had it already in 1972 for as far i know. But anyway. it could be that there is a defect (short circuit ) in your wiper (itermittent) electronics that make them go all the time.. or the return contact in the motor is the culprit. (it sits in the wipermotor.)

Oh.. i know the feeling.. last summer of 2019 we had also a few very hot days of 40 C ( 105 F ??) one gets nothing done.. especially when you are a bit older. Hope to read about your restoration on this forum later on!

Agree!, I never took a look into them because i never ever had a problem with meters ever!. Few pic's of those parts in this story would be also very nice..

It looks a bit close to me.. Mine (is a 1971 feb. 240z) has a bigger gap. Maybe use a shime.. (inside bumper) . Loosen also the bolts of the 2 front brackets when you install the outside brackets. The bumper ends should not really be IN the cavety's of the bodypanel.. just in front of them. otherwise take the bumper off, (put it on a stable not damaging floor.. towels!) use a string fit it to the ends of the bumper with some ducttape and then carefully bend the lower and upper metal to the outside near the middle tip. Use some tape (more layers.) to protect the chrome and extra clothes. also you need some flat steel To spread the force from the pliers and 2 sets of pliers.. When you put a little bit pressure on the bumper you'll see the string slacken. Hope i sayd this right in english haha...