dutchzcarguy

I think i leave the valve out... also helps the heater to work even better i think..? And no chance it's gonna leak!

Yes... you are right.. but i now remember it correctly .. i hope.. It was like in the picture but the bottom (in pic on the 4 o'clock side) it was sort of white plastic and sits inside the copper part.. And that was the place it was leaking a little. once in a while a drop.. If you had a pic from the underside it would show the plastic bit.. mind you it was 30 years ago i had that 1980 car.. (these last weeks i did'nt work on my '79. but i could look one time if the valve underside is plastic at the 280zx i have now..) Looked on internet and...yep, here you can see the plastic part i was remembering... it was leaky right there!

Very good question and just in time for me because i'm almst ready to put my 280zx N42/N42 engine back in my engineroom. My car has a N42 head (280zx) and is cooled as in the lower part of your picture.. i ask myself the same question.. Is that valve needed.. I know that in my first 280zx 1980 eu modell it leaked just a little bit.. (very few drops sometimes on the starter..) it was made of plastic i remember.. If i could leave it out, i would! (Less parts less problems can occure) The only thing i can think of is when you don't use the heater there is a bit less water movement in the rear end of the head... as i see a N42 on the 280z (the same one as i got in my 280zx orig EU modell) i think it's not a problem to plumb it like a Z..

That 6 is a typo i'm sure.. the small 240z brake booster's are 7 inches or 178 mm. diam.

Hey !! Ryan... How are you? something done to the 240z or 280zx lately? We all know it's not a easy job so let us know, when we / where we, can help!

Yeah.. i asked myself.. if thats the case, but then the beam just over the muffler in the chassis should also have been parallel to the muffler? O Well anyway... your totally happy with it and thats the important thing! It has become a beautiful car!

Am.. i.. gonna say... something about it... I don't think they did a good job.. the damper is to long and had to be installed on a angle and... and.. now it hits the bottom of the car.. (at least it looks like it's on a angle?) Does the exhaust not make a clunking noise against the reserve wheel thingy... whatever it's called.. ? 🙄 Your car has become a beautyful car and now there is a crummy exhaust under there..(sorry again but i took a day and ask myself if i had to say this and yes...... i sayd it.. 🙊)

on carbs yes that works.. i think you should find a lot of threads about this on this site.. It's known that the orig FI system does NOT like a bigger cam, it just does not work very well because the system is not tuned to a bigger cam.. you need a aftermarket FI system that you can programm. like mega squirt or something.. (I have no experience with those..yet..) If you have a L28 injection then you could put some Hitachi (L24) carbs on it and tune it to the bigger cam and get a nice increase on the horsepower..

BTW.. in the early '90's i looked at a fiches machine a the Nissandealer and had 4-5 different springs to choose from.. Dutch were different from Frence ones and American springs were softer and again... different.. There are a lot of threads around springs maybe read those first before you buy something..

My '71 240z had the orig. US type 240z springs in the rear and were very soft... i replaced them with euro 240z rear springs and can now load 150kg ( about 330lbs) without the exhaust on the ground! The wire thickness of the euro version is thicker.. they are also a bit stiffer. Also know that the front springs are different! One is stiffer than the other for as far i heard.. 600 dollar for a new set is reasonable i think... Look if they have different stifness in the front ones! then you know if they are really the right ones.. (Look in the serv.manual if a '73 240z has different stifness springs in the front!) SO... I looked it up for yah... The wire diam front is both 10,6 and coil diam. is 100mm coil turns 10 and coil eff turns is 8,5 spring constant is 1,48kg/mm (for both sides) now: !! Free length left is 373,5 mm (22.72 inch) and right hand side is 386mm (23.56 inch) !! (where would we be without a service manual hey???) So there is a big diff between length of R and L front springs.. Looked also for you on the rear springs, they are the same (L & R) and have: wire diam 11,4mm coil diam. 100mm 10,65 windings free hight of spring is 381mm and installed 225 mm spring constant 1,85kg/mm this came from my (euro/US?) 1971 serv. manual. i often wonder if we have different service manuals.. i do have the mm and inches in it also Kgm and ft-lbs ... so it's for euro and american service-men? ...

A comment on ebay: by gilps45-70Mar 05, 2020 GUN GREAT REGULATER RUBBISH the gun itself is a great bit of k TO STOP AIR it BUT THE PRESSURE REGULATER IS RUBBISH ITS PLASIC AND IT WLL NOT TIGHTEN UP ENOUGH TO STOP AIR LEAKING ,HAD TO BUY ANOTHER WITH A METAL BODY ITS A PITY IT DID SPOIL A GOOD ITEM Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New | Sold by: mdabitec

Why the Ebay one is cheaper.. From the ebay site: This gun is made from a cast and is not milled (machined) like the DeVilbiss guns that cost hundreds of pounds. This keeps the cost down but means that there are minor imperfections where the casts are joined together. This is merely aesthetic. The functionality of the internals are top class. Years ago i heard that DeVilbiss had a lot of trouble with fake sprayguns.. I wouldn't be surprised if these ebay ones are totally fake.

Ah... painting a car is easy, you just have to put on paint everywhere with the same thickness.. Just kidding.. if you can do that it's far from enough.. many variables are trying to make a mess of your paintjob, first look A LOT of you tube videos about painting it helped me.. I painted a car and only had 1 bad spot.. and that one i knew what went wrong and came out easy.

I've got a 40-50 year old aerograph .. it's a little gun just for painting a roof/door/fender.. i found out that it is the far predecessor of the DeVilbiss! You could go for a good pro gun secondhand..?

Ehmm.. arn't those rubber pipes the extra airinlet's from those cold air inlets you can open from those pull-knobs... under the dash? (both sides.) It was only last week i asked myself why are those openings even there in the cowl finisher? (Air for inside is pulled through the inner fenders not the cowl.. (hope i say this right?) )

Btw.. it's a good way to prevent a robber from stealing your car while standing before the traffic lights! Pump the clutch 3 times and get out! He will not get away with it!!!

I once had the problem that if i "pumped" the clutch a few times (very fast) , while having a new type clutch slave-cylinder on a early 1971, the clutch became constant detached! I had to bleed the slave-cylinder to get it working normally again.. so if you want to test this, keep a wrench handy! (12mm i believe..) Love to hear if there are more cars that have that "problem" ? (just pump the clutch three times.. haha)

Interesting.. (Also for @Yarb) Mine are a bit rusty in that area.. but as i learned to make some for my 280zx i think i can make also some for my 240z.. The problem there is that it's 2 layers of steel .. and thats aways going to be a rust problem.. maybe take some of the orignal inside layer out clean it completly and close it with some sealer?

If it was the needles, clean the carbs with carbcleaner and/or replace the needles..

It can also be a clogged needle in the float chamber. you can check that with a piece of hose and blow through them.. ( the chambers have an air outlet and you can hear the air blow when you do it with a compressor!) If you can't blow through them with your mouth then use air from the compressor and afterwards you can blow through them with your mouth! Now they are open. (no fuel in the bowls is also a clue.) Check your pump first with a bottle on both sides and let the pump put in from one to the other.. if the pump does work your carbs are clogged up or have worn needles in the bowls.

If you remove the valve cover and set the cam lobe in the far off position you can simply "pump"the pump by hand and see if it pumps fuel.. (I got a original new in box pump from nissan if you need one but it'll cost yeh 250 euro.. excl transport/shipping.)

Wow, now just arrange a flight to bangkok, Taiwan! Does Fedex go there? I tried to look on that website for more parts/prices but i don't like the set up of the site..

As i'm in the proces of putting in a clean L28 in my 280zx.. i see your L28 has no heatshield under the inlet manifold? Is that not neccesary? Maybe you can make one? cleaned up parts (incl. heatshields)

Typical dutch young girl but.. no never seen her.. Much to young for yah! (or me) ( I could put a picture of a granny here but i don't want to mess up this topic haha)

Oh.. so funny! Now i know again why i'm on my own... no missis to say it can't be my way.... That's also.. i think... why there are so much LAT relationships in the Netherlands.. (and a shortage of houses! ) ( I don't need to explane what LAT is? as it is a english abbreviation of: living apart together.. and yeah.. Dutch is full of english words.. and abbrev's ! ) I investigated (googled 😃) a bit and 45% !!! of the Dutch population is single! On 7,8 million households there are 3 million single households !!! so.. i'm not alone!