dutchzcarguy

I only saw one and it's Bart's blue 240z , @bartsscooterservice and he has it directly steel on steel iirc. Maybe he can give you a pic of it.. 😉

I've seen some different ways of putting it on a 240z, the best way.... Is to take off those weights called overriders, and put them on the garage wall and stick that front bar to them.. that way your 240z looks much better and weighs a lot less and... is FASTER! (I'm just kidding.. you make your car look like you want.. for me.. all that junk on the bumpers is only weight to carry around and it surves nothing.. sorry!! )

You probably have the usa hazard switch witch has many connections and the turn signal go's through that switch. it can be the culprit. A euro hazard switch has only 3 connections, a usa has 8-9 wires! (has to do with the fact that one single light is used for brakelight and the turn signal and hazard.. were the euro only has to switch the (orange) turn signal lamps into hazard lights.

Test this one in a pot of water on your stove, start with cold water and slowly make it hot.. at one point you should see the sensor switch.

Looks like the dash is worth that! Also with a original (to the USA market) radio!! (Hopefully that dash is not gonna crack when someone takes it out! lots of chances that's what gonna happen..🙈 )

Tell me about it, i forgot to lower it when i drove the car in the garage.... under the 4 column lift.. cracked... Grr 🤬 (But i do have a spare and ... not gonna install it because i make that fault easely again.. put it in there when i sell the car.. )

I think if the floor is good that could be a nice resto, ever seen such a nice dash in a wreck?? I think the seller does not know what he's selling! btw, i only see 1 white 240z where is the other one.. maybe together a nice deal to get started on a resto?

Yeah, the new antenna has 1 power up and 1 power down wire against negative on the chassis.. so you should be able tho use the harada HA11D! (i know because the 280zx also uses harada antenna..)

Some u-joints have a little screw (that you can replace temporary by a nipple) others have a nipple already in them.. I had once the same problem and... you can solve that by buying some extra long nipples! 😉 After you greased the shafts you put in (back) the little screws to close the holes.. (This was a message about greasing shafts,nipples and holes... 🙈 do NOT google this! 🤣)

A 350z cabriolet is small for me but not impossible like the 370z.. I do fit in the coupes of the 350 and 370z! but it's a bit small..

They look like the originals! But i do miss the text: "max: xxxx mm diameter " on the inside of it. (I don't know if these are for the later s30's 260z and 280z, but they look like the 240z ones i have.)

Okay, but some people have a long torso and others have (like me.. ) long legs.. Has someone tall here (6 foot 3 and bigger) ever sat in a 370z cabriolet? I was stuck between the seat.. in the rear position.. and the dashboard, did not fit AT ALL !! I was very disappointed.. to say the least..

I'm 6 foot 4 and also long legged.. I installed a special "scheel" seat.. Scheel makes very special seats for cars and stuff.. i bought one from the internet long ago.. and installed some 4 way seatbelts/ race harness. I took away the studs on the floor and directly bolted the seat to the floor, also a bit further to the rear, i had to make a dent in the left rear wheelwell haha.. otherwise the big seat could not go back enough.. 😮

HAhahaha.. im not surprised... who else makes them for that money.. for 60 euro's an hour i can't make 'em! Yes, I'm laughing but it's actually to cry... I think it's time to stop buying chinese junk and other stuff.. (Btw, i don't think these exhausts are junk! but A LOT of chinese stuff IS! It's like anywhere else: if you want better quality you have to pay UP!! 😉 )

Eh... NO... there are A LOT of differences.. Most time people say they are the same, it will fit is when they have something for sale! haha.. And sometimes i have the feeling that it's even worse for the s130 (280zx's) they are also very different. You have to make sure that the part you want to buy fits the car by looking at the date of the car and/or serial numbers.. I remember that i needed another radiator in my s130 and i bought several (in a big parts buy..) and they were from s130 and s30 and all were different in some way.. (mainly in the spots were the bolts go to fit in the car.)

Wow! Nice dash! If you get everything else as good as that t's gonna be a gem that 240z of yours! 😉 Yes, it's nice to have a 280zx while your working on a 240z.. i had the opposit these last years, worked on the 280zx and drove the 240z to and from the painter and when i needed parts and all other shopping.. Maybe you can look around for a Fs5w71b gearbox for your 280zx? I don't know but maybe the diff is usable from the auto? Then you need only some parts for in the car around the gearbox.. Yeah, once you have driven a 280zx then you know how nice they run! A 240 is nimble, something a 280zx is not but it drives very nice.. a 280zx is more of a GT than a sportscar.. i like that a lot.

Ps. you can change the topic name of this topic, how? you will find out! 🙂

HI Ryan! You say: I never suffered such pain.. I know what you mean.. My mother left us .. just half an hour after i heared that I had successfully completed my education, which i worked hard for.. (i really went from high up to the lowest deepest pit..) So.. my condolences to you. Nice to hear that you are working on your car again! Do you still have the 280zx and what are you going to do with it? But first that 240 ofcourse!! We want to see your progress! (But finish first your house and stuff..) Mart

You can also do it from the underside, just drill right through the floor, then drill some extra holes, clean up everything with a steelwire brush (on a drill) and put the new rails in place from the underside, just put some little welds from the underside and then if it is positioned right, weld the whole thing together. (Just clean it well because the stuff on that floor catches fire easely... ask me how i know... 😉 )

A good way to do the rails is (when your car is empty inside , you took all the interior out..) is to weld them from the inside! first you drill holes from 1/4 inch in the old spotwelds than take off the old rails.. then you can weld the new rails from top.. from the inside and they will look also much better as you have no weld mess on the underside. (you will see that it almost looks like original.) You may want to drill some extra holes for new welds also.. (I had to drill every inch a hole from 6mm (i did even 7,5 mm) to get my old 240z through the APK (Dutch MOT!) when i made it a new floor and rails in 2000! If I had not done that, the car would not have passed the strict inspection!) (Btw.. about the fan when welding.. don't put it to close to your welding ofcourse.. otherwise you need a lot of gas and you make bad welds.. just let a fan above you blow the smoke away.. What i sometimes do is take compressed air and blow away the smoke and also when you are making a lot of dust, blow it away, you need a lot of air.. Also when you have a small fire from welding it's always handy to have the compressed air within reach.)

You did a nice job on the steel sheet! But i see (i think) not clean enough welding area.. (hence the black soot around your welds..?) To have a good weld clean the place from all paint and stuff, you will see that the welding go's much better and... it's better for your lungs! ( use some fan or other air displacing stuff.. welding can be very poisonous

That typo was just corrected hihihi... funny! 😂

For what are those bulky looking steel things sticking from under the front bumper for? Never seen those...

Yes.. but he has a Amp. meter there! ... so he has to learn how to use it.. That's why i described the proces.. hope he gets it.

I'm surprised no one said this: Take of a pole from your battery and put in series a amp.meter or in detail: Take of the minus pole then put the meter on the 10A socket (Red wire in 10 a socket on your meter!) and put the wires in series (in between) with the pole and pole-clamp. and switch the meter to the 10A setting.. (If the current is very low, under 1 amp. then you can switch back to the other connection (V,Ohms,mA on your meter and set meterswitch to mA.)The current you now are seeing is the leaking amperage! Start now taking out fuses and every time take a look at the meter.. then at a certain fuse the amperage will drop, thats the part (of your wiringloom) that is draining the battery! If there is no current at all? then your battery has a internal circuit-leak and has to be re-newed.. Good luck! 🙂 Mart.