dutchzcarguy

Ah.. thanks,, very 1980's i've read.. (goooogle'ed it yep!!)

Yeah, most people don't realise that a elec fan to replace a standard mechanical clutch fan needs a lot of juice!

Maybe it's a good idea to use a little bit of coppergrease as anti-seize.. (as copper is a conducting material.) (One could measure the conductance between a plug with and one without some coppergrease and report back here what the difference is! I'm curious what it would be.. measure the resistance with an ohm meter between the foot of the plug (where normally your plugwrench go's) and the enginehead after you have found out what the resiistance from the leads itself is and substract those. Preferably use a micro ohm meter if possible..)

mmmm...eh... we Euro's have NOT A CLUE where this is about? Fill me in captn.. it's a cartoon character???

I'm not sure he has a 280z rail.. or the 280zx rail. (As i'm busy with my 280zx engine, have some pics.) Here the 280zx rail.. upper=1982-1983 (i think US version not sure) and lower is 1979 (euroversion.) Here the upper is the 1979 280zx rail... euro version.. i'm sure..

As it happens i have a reserve 1973 240z engine laying apart at the moment and looked at the cam.. it has a big A on the BACK (!!) nothing else.. Another new old stock cam i have is a so called slalom-cam and has big lobes.. that one has Datsun and a partnumber on it and the word: brown. it was in the 70's a original datsun special cam. (new in box.. what's left of it.. cam is as new..) EDIT: the letter is on the back ofcourse.. not on the front of the camshaft... silly me...

Could it be that that Z is upside down? you started with the z upside down and took a bit off of the left lower .. ? If i look at a imaginary vertical line the original Z sign is shorter on the upper horizontal line (on the left).. this one is not.. Hope you know what i mean.. Also the foot of the z is normally longer on the right as shown above.. sorry am i nitpicking? 😟

No..no... it's TATFAW

NICE! I did a simular wheel in mahogany (left pic!!) in 2007 till this day a shiny wheel! I layd 7-8 coats of varnish on it to make a deep shine, you made a nice wheel but i would have made it a bit deeper and not as wide (if you know what i mean.) There are pics of my wheel in another topic about steeringwheels..

2 ! M8 bolts? (front hook.. look carefully at it in the pic.) not enough? it does not weigh a ton! I bet i could lift the whole front of the car on those hooks.. (in fact i did this to reposition a car on my (4post) lift..) and eh.. if i see the questions you ask these last days i think your a guy age 18? and it's your first car?

I got a spare but overhere they are like 1500 euro easy in good condition...

Normally the engine has some pick up points front and rear.. like this one.. (L28 of my 280zx) A balancer and a hoist is very handy and don't cost a lot of money.. be sure that you fit them to a beam that is strong enough to support the load of the hoist.. (i got myself a giant H-beam that easely can manage the weight. (over a ton.)

Wow... i to have scrapped a 240z that was better then that!! It was a car with a original Dutch license number so it was all it's life here in NL.. But those are often also the bad ones because of the weather.. How is it possible that a Z has such a bad cowl? was it near the titanic?? (as wal280z sayd..) or in the rain? (In Tampa florida???? it's not a Florida car then..) I would like to see the rest of that Z-car? Pics? They must be of a very good car otherwise it's not worth the work you will have to correct this mess..

I think it's sometimes wise to check a good working system, then you get some experience with electricity, especially when your not much of a electricien.. Get yourself one of those clamp-ampèremeters, they are so handy, you don't need to open the circuit just clamp them on the cable you want to know the ampèrage from! I fear that your systems seems to work again but the problem will come back.. (if you did'nt find the culprit..) keep (at least) one eye on it...

Floor replacement (240z) complete with all the reinforcements.. and 280zx fenders etc etc.. also did a steeringwheel.. the one in the little pic on the left of this comment!

Cliff, exactly the same here... it's only that other people want money.. 😂haha... that's why i need money.. but i always sayd: fun on the job is MUCH more important than the money.. As a service engineer in security systems i came EVERYWHERE. From smallest house to the biggest villa and any businesses.. It was a job that i liked to get out of bed for almost every day haha.. But after 12 years i had an accident at work and i'm glad that i had a insurance for job loss due to incapacity for work.. I'm retired now you could say.. (this was around 2000) Around 2006 i had a small job just for a few hours but after i drove my fireblade (fast motorbike) against a big oak that job was ended also.. 😞 So what i wanted to say is: making less money is not bad but save yourself enough to get through life and have fun.. Mart

I have the smallest ESAB welder mig.. (with co2 10ltr./200bar.) (swedish company?) does it wonderfull! hav'nt read the whole thing but one thing i want to say is: clean the spot that you want to weld very good.. i see a lot of people not cleaning well their welding spot.. place ( whatever..) When i was welding a door edge.. and the use of a magnet to keep the sheet metal aligned.. Old speaker magnet comes in handy with weld work.

Sorry.. the euro 280zx has no overflow bottle...

Yes i think so but just zinc not that golden look.. I don't make 2 piles of stuff to zinc.. i always do the cadmium/zinc? i believe it's called? Original the car has zinc (grey-ish) and cadmium? (gold-ish) colors on the metal parts, Galvano the company that does this for me can do both but then it's twice as expensive.. i decided that it IS a car for daily drive and NOT a trailerqueen... so the parts need to be protected against rust but they don't need to be as they were factory.. as there are few zinc grey parts under the hood there is not much difference.. (It's totally possible that i spray the coolingplate under the intake with grey heatresistent paint.. and the under engine front plate black.) The under shield had a LOT of undercoating on it when i brought it to the firm for passifiing.. it had a little rust and where the undercoating was off it was zinc grey as far i remember..

They are! After 42 years they broke off.. Luckely only 1 other broke off at the 6th cylinder exhaust manifold, right at the end of the engine head.. i already took care of that one, head is ready for install.. only the block i have to clean and paint.. and the engineroom also.. Will take a few weeks..or month's.. depends on how well i feel.

This week i got my parts back from the galvano company.. Nice to see that old parts so dirty come back like new.. Here the passified nuts of the exhaust manifold.. have to drill them out and make new threads in them.. Old and new from the fuel rails (lower is '79 and upper is 82-83 rail.. Look and find the differences!) came back like new.. Lots of parts for zx.. (not only for my own..) Rare engine lower front cover for a 280zx.. Look at the old spring few pics back and this is the same one.. A pic for myself to see how it go's together again.. (the throttlebody linkage.) one of the thausands of pics in this resto.. sorted parts ...

Just a little, if they are not perfectly restored they change every time, you constantly busy adjusting them till the point you wish you never seen them! That was 30 years ago, now i think with the right parts you can build new flattops in a way they work well.. but the question is can you get those good parts so to make a good set of flattops? Most people hate these ft's because they are a pain to adjust.. roundtops are more easy.. i think, i never bottered to look at ft's .. i make a big bow around them Hahaha...

Might ad.. do the rivnut install in wet paint and check if the surrounds is covered in paint.. (bit of paint on the outside of the rivnut and) then it will not rust.

Mark the spot where it rubbs and take of the exhaust then make the pipe like a elips on the marked spot.. a few mm is enough maybe you can do it even when it's still installed, also you could take out the steering part that may be much more easy and make a small dent in the pipe! (Make the pipe elipse with a big pair of piers..)

I can only say that i have the left one on my '79 280zx (original) .. euro version. I have seen those copper pipes with only one outlet maybe thats cleaner look and easy to install.