Mark Maras

Personal experience? Nice to know about scammers in our area.

Another reason why I love Oregon.

That's great. The possibilities are endless and possibly revealing.

Nice looking mod. How much flex in the f. w. were you able to detect?

If the gaskets align and the thumb screws are long enough, I'd use it as is. That gasket in the housing is one of those "unicorn parts".

Need a few more puzzle pieces. When the idle drops to 500, and assuming you instinctively hit the throttle to compensate, is there any stumble or hesitation? Also assuming that you revved the engine to compensate and let it fall back to an idle, did the idle return to 900, even temporarily or did the idle go back to 500?

No meter repair. Hook up a temporary ground to any "suspect" ground circuit using a length of wire and two alligator clips to see if "things" improve. If that perks things up, add a semi-permanent ground to the circuit until the orig. fault can be found.

I prefer the zinc rich primer to the weldable primer. Zinc rich primer is weldable too. The added bonus is the corrosion resistance.

The ratio can be confirmed by putting the rear of the car on jack stands. Mark the tire and drive shaft with chalk. Either rotate the tire 360` and count the drive shaft revolutions or rotate the drive shaft and count the revolutions it takes to turn the tire 360`

Ditto

I wonder if the thought was, The car is to fast, You're not gonna outrun this guy. Can't imagine why they would consider the owner of a sports car a threat. Unless they were transporting NOS parts, that is.

I owned a 521. I didn't know the U existed. I like it.

So, is the cover being held for ransom?

Welcome and congratulations on your find. Does it have much rust? I have some parts from a late 71. What part of the world are you in?

I'm not familiar with the term (part) called a throttle switch. What type of fuel delivery system does the car have? Fuel injection (factory?), or carburetor(s), description and quantity. I'm curious what color the plugs were before the improvement.

Yup. I experienced the loose pan bolts multiple times on my first Z. I just got in the habit of checking them when I was under the car.

@Blue

Thanks for sharing. I enjoyed the sound track as much as the video.

Part of me is sad that I missed seeing it. The other part is glad I didn't see it. It must have been good!

IMO, you can safely bypass the main filter temporarily, there are the "last chance" filters inside the banjo fittings on top of each float bowl that should catch any major debris. That said, it would be worth checking them when the experiment is completed to make sure they didn't pick up any crud from the tank.

I agree. The pic of the plugs in post #181 were run three turns down. In my experience, three turns down should leave the plugs with a light to medium tan color. I'd check the float and the needle height first. Jalex. Back in post 181 when the car lacked power, did you try gradually adding more choke to see if performance improved? It's a great way to check for a lean mixture.

Attention!!! 10/31 16, 10:30 AM PST. Garage Squad, XFinity, Velocity Channel 711. "Disheveled Datsun" A motorcycle mechanic has a 70 240Z that has problems under the hood and the body too.

As an experiment, I'd re-direct the fuel lines with a temporary fuel rated hose bypassing the original steel fuel rail. Do it cheap and easy. Leave the old fuel rail in place until you decide if it was part of the problem. If the experiment works, replace the temp line with a permanent line.

I've considered this possibility too. Makes sense, but, the early set-up with 4 screw Hitachis and two steel fuel lines (one return) didn't have the problem. I'm still curious if the big difference is in the two vs. the three steel fuel line set-up.

Maybe an infra-red thermometer would help find the hot spots in the fuel system.