Mark Maras
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Everything posted by Mark Maras
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Eyeballing the fuel level is close enough. I don't recall how many turns of adjustment the mixture screws have. My original 4 screws had adjustable stops below the mixture screws. The stops you're referring to were probably adjusted down farther or removed to allow more mixture screw adjustment. 2 1/2 turns down and the fuel level (floats) set 1/16" below the jets is what you're shooting for.
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Bruce Palmer (Ztherapy) shared this tip a while back for checking float (fuel) level in the float bowls. Run the engine at idle, turn it off. re-set the mixture screws 2 1/2 turns down(factory setting), remove the 4 screw domes and the pistons with the needles, I temporarily set the pistons, needles down, in the cowl slots), look straight down at the fuel jet (orifice) that housed the needle. When the floats are adjusted properly, the fuel levels will be 1/16" below the tops of the jets. I find this method much easier than pulling the float bowl tops, measuring, re-setting and still wondering if I got it right. Let us know what you find.
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It'll be interesting to see what the red-headed step child is worth. Eventually, IMHO, the scarcity of the one year model is going to make them quite valuable. This one may start the trend.
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Attn. @Zed Head and all others in the area. It would be fun to get together for food and?. However, if there's a Z around that needs TLC, that should probably be the first priority.
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A trip to the beach from Portland may be coming up.
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Reply to post above. As you stated, you can still see the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder walls. If the bores all look that good, and you're not trying to up the compression with new pistons, why bother tearing it apart all the way. Using a micrometer to measure bore taper would be a good idea. If the block is out, I'd take a look at the main and rod bearings as well as the crank but I wouldn't expect to find anything wrong. More just a step to reassure myself. If, however, you do decide to tear it down, be sure to pay extra attention to the coolant passages in the block. They are notorious for collecting deposits on the walls. IMHO, all that money in a new engine when used in a daily driver could be better spent elsewhere on the car. BTW, if you really want to enjoy the car as a reliable daily driver, keep everything as stock as possible when it comes to the engine and induction system.
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I have a new FelPro head gasket. It doesn't have a metal ring around either hole. Instead, it has a red sealant? around both holes and around the front rectangle where the timing chain drops down to the crank. The cyl. bores are the only thing that are reinforced with metal. I would have thought that the manufacturer would have treated both holes the same on yours.
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Did the 85 mph limit and the tach going crazy start at the same time? Also, will the engine rev to the red line easily when it's not under a load?
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Sorry, I can't really tell judging by the pic. I'm assuming that's an old plug. The black portion indicates a rich mixture. The white portion indicates a lean mixture. You'll have to start with new plugs that have all white porcelain to get a proper reading. That said, I'd say that the black portion was from running the mixture too rich when the plugs were new. Then it looks like the plug was cleaned, the mixture and or floats were re-set to a lean mixture. Neither color is what you're looking for. You're shooting for a tan color. Normal driving.
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$75,000 is the car salesman side of him.
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I'm going to guess crud in the tank. The foreign matter (probably rust) may be blocking the line to the pump. The pumping action sucks up the crud and blocks the fuel flow. Engine stops, crud falls away from the line until you run the pump again. However, all the fuel filters should be checked and if possible, drain the tank to find out what may be in there.
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@Luis Maldonado, in post #3 you said "at 85 mph it stops accelerating and starts to fail." Describe the symptom please. Does the engine cut out? (spark plugs misfiring or not firing) Any backfire from the carbs or exhaust? Does it just run out of power exhibiting no other symptom? Any smoke, odd noises or smells when it happens?
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Welcome Luis. Does your Z exhibit any other symptoms. Tell us about your set-up. Stock, with SU's? Have you changed anything lately? Have you tried any repairs?
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How many beers does it take to mow 15 acres?
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Too much fuel can be caused from excessive fuel pressure, floats set too high, sticking floats, stuck needle and seat or crud in it holding it open, for openers. Two other things, when the choke is in the off position, reach under the carbs and push up on the nozzles. They can stick down (more choke) even when the handle is pushed forward and be sure that the choke cables are adjusted at the carbs to be sure the nozzles are all the way up (up being resting against the mixture nut which is about 2 1/2 turns down) when the choke is off. When the suction chambers and pistons are removed, you can look down and see the top of the nozzle. Set at 2 1/2 turns down, the fuel level should be about 1/16" below the top of the nozzle.
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There's been a lot of discussion about float adjustment methods. Any service manual will get you close to the right adjustment if it's done with care. As a final fuel height check, you can remove the suction chambers and pistons, with the mixture screws 2 1/2 turns down, look down at the top of the fuel nozzle. The fuel level should be about 1/16" below the top of the nozzle opening. Also be sure the floats pivot on the rods freely and the needle and seat operate properly.
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Wet plugs, Hmmm. OK, let's go that direction. Have you determined if the plug wetness is oil or gas? Sniff test might do it, a burn test would work too. Have you checked to see if there is a strong spark at the plugs before and during the problem? If all is well with the spark (new plugs is a good idea) then it's on to too much fuel. SU's will run well with 3 - 3 1/2 psi. Anything over that can over power the needle and seat and overfill the float chambers. Did you re-set the floats when you rebuilt the carbs and what method did you use? That's enough for now. Keep the info coming. We'll get to the bottom of this.
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I'm thinking that there's a couple of problems. 1st, if the engine won't pull a load but rev's freely when not under a load the problem is usually lack of fuel. There can be many causes. A fuel pressure and volume test is first. That should rule out everything up to the carbs. Check the filters in the banjo fittings above the float lids if you haven't already. Even with a poor fuel flow the engine should idle smoothly. Recheck the float levels, be sure the nozzles slide up and down easily when operating the choke and run thru the carb balancing-tuning procedure again. What color are the plugs?
