Mark Maras

Another question. Does the clunk volume increase during hard acceleration or deceleration?

Is the clunk there during acceleration and deceleration and is it louder under either condition?

You can try filling the holes with weld but you'll have to clean the rust from around them first. After removing the rust, you'll probably find you've enlarged the hole out to solid steel and have a dime or quarter size hole to patch. I can assure you that inserting a piece of sheet metal into a clean hole is much easier and satisfying than chasing a hole in rusty sheet metal with a Mig.

We may have been pioneers but we were crazy to do that. Steel wheels on asphalt and concrete had little to no cornering capability or control. We thought ourselves to be bulletproof back then but we were little more than passengers on a gravity express. No slalom course, just a schuss to see if we could stay on till the bottom of the hill. Frequently, we didn't. The adrenaline addiction stayed with me for years

Plywood and steel wheels purloined from street skates in the early sixties. Sixty years later a few of the old memories (scars) remain and remind me of the good old days of adrenaline fueled afternoons and the painful recoveries.

@PatconThat resembles the 4 barrel Carter carb we recently removed from a friend's 55 Packard Patrician. It sat under a shelter for ten years, air filter off, and the carb was filled with nut shells and squirrel pee. We got the primary throttle shaft unstuck but no luck on the secondary shaft. A replacement carb was unobtainium. He sent it to a carb. rebuild shop in Cal and got it back in about 5 weeks, cost was less than $400.00, and the carb looks and runs like new. I don't remember the shop name but if this sounds like an option I can get it for you. They were very informative over the phone.

Just my opinion, which is worth exactly as much as anyone else's opinion, but I failed to see the humor in it. From one sides perspective, this is the actual reality that they fear is on the horizon. It feeds fear, distrust, and delusion. ----- Self induced reality check. I stepped back for a moment and realized that I failed to take this from a satirical view point at first. I do hope it was intended that way. I've seen too many people who come very close to these people. I discovered I'm a bit hyper-sensitive on the subject. I love satire. My only fear is that we're seeing "Natural Selection" shift into "Impulse Power". I don't want the planet to experience "Warp Drive". I've learned to ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY. I've found the Authorities on the side of vaccines to be much more credible than the Authorities on the no-vax side. Are there other options among the existing drugs? Yes. At a cheaper price? It's your tax dollar) Yes. BUT to vaccinate with new vaccines or refuse to be vaccinated are the only two choices most of us are given. Please get vaccinated.

According to your diagram, the middle wire is solid green.

Yes it does. Not enough coffee to fully engage my memory that early.

There's one more big plus using the bread method. No grease to clean out of the center of the flywheel.

I mentioned this a few weeks ago. I don't keep the components in my toolbox. To remove a pilot bushing, a slice of bread and a bolt slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the pilot bushing in the flywheel. A hammer and the bolt take the place of a grease gun and the bread acts like grease without the squeeze out.

I'd reconnect the return line. I'm surprised the engine starts to miss at 3.5 once in a while. Have you tested the pump for volume? A restriction in the supply line can up the pressure and lower the volume.

@Captain ObviousPlease define "cracking pressure when the valve is closed". I'm not familiar with the term. My point about the carbs not needing pressure is they can operate with a gravity fuel feed to the float bowls. If the float bowls will fill to the proper height at full throttle using 3.5 psi why up the pressure to 4.5? In the late 60s we ran a small dragster with a carbureted 327 c.i. Chevy. No fuel pump. Just a one gallon, non vented, fuel tank with a pressure gauge and a small bicycle air pump. We'd pump 3.5 psi into the tank, warm it up, do a burnout and just before staging the car we'd give a couple of more strokes on the pump to bring the tank pressure back up to 3.5 psi. We never experienced a fuel starvation problem.

A 1/2" x 3' length of garden hose that I use as my go-to stethoscope.

I'd love to see the specs for that "containment vessel" on wheels.

Keep in mind that carbs don't rely on fuel pressure at all. Volume is all they need and enough pressure to push or pull the fuel from the tank to the bowls. Extra pressure will try to only defeat the purpose of the needle and seat valve.

If I remember correctly, there's a reducer (restricto) in the return line. Nothing there to go bad but it could become plugged or corroded. I believe C.O. is the one who looked into this previously.

I'd drop the fuel pressure to around 3.5 psi and install a new set of spark plugs.

4.5 psi is pushing the limit on fuel pressure for carbs. 3.5 psi is better and will supply the engine with more than enough fuel.

Did the idle drop occur before the tune-up?

I fought a balance problem in one of the three shafts some years back. Ultimately, I found that the half shafts don't spin fast enough to create a vibration. My vibration was in the prop shaft. It spins 3 - 4 time faster than the half shafts.

It's definitely a fuel delivery problem. I'd start at the fuel pump to see if it is pumping with the key on.

If it will run on starting fluid, I'd check the float levels after it dies. Pull the domes and pistons and raise the nozzles to the top. Then lower them app. 9 1/2 turns down. The fuel level should be at or near the top of the nozzles. That will confirm the fuel levels are 3/8" below the carb bridges. Raise the nozzles back up to app. 2 1/2 turns down from the top.

When it starts to die shoot a bit of starting fluid into the carbs to see if it will keep running. That will narrow the problem down to fuel delivery. If you have SUs check all the filters including the banjo filters on top of the float bowls.

Portland, Sat. 105`, Sun. 110`, Mon. 107`, Tues. 97` & staying in the 90s for the predictable future. Summer is here in the Northwest. Fortunately, our AC can keep the house below 85`. Many people don't have AC here because one only uses it for a few days a year.