Mark Maras

Had to listen to him a couple of times but he said 30 hrs. I think that may be optimistic but after reading a few forums It appears that this method is used by many people in the repair bus. A fellow in the musical instrument repair bus. says steel screws broken off in brass instruments used to be a problem. Now they submerge the brass part in boiling alum and water and the screw disappears. I agree with Zed Head. IF the method works that well and depends on electrolysis, the threads on the stud should be the first to go. Maybe pluck it out in 10 hours. No need to make it disappear. The 30 hr. wait may have more to do with drugs.

This was to good to be true until I Googled the subject. It appears to be true. Apparently this method will remove a ferrous screw, bolt, etc. from any non-ferrous metal. It will still require removing the manifold(s) on a Z but being able to let the bolt dissolve instead of fighting it with implements of destruction is fantastic. Oh yeah, one more thing. This method will also dissolve the stud and anything else that broke off in the stud such as a drill bit, tap or a bolt extractor. Who's going to the first to try it? Alum is avail. in the spice section of WM. I checked my spares hoping? that I had a head with a broken stud. No luck?

I've been curious about the slots for a long time. What was their purpose?

If it was being offered by a politician, he, she would explain that they had just "mis-spoke" about the rust.

Til you get it fixed, you might try Rain-X Interior Glass Anti-Fog. It's nerve-wracking driving with limited vision. I remember one cold winter morning when I was scraping frost on the inside glass. What a PITA.

Left side is hung from the tree. I don't think Fred Flintstone, in the front, is going far. Also looks like ET is helping in the rear.(legs) Or could the whole set-up be a Possum Lodge rotisserie?

Weight is my guess. Judging by the unverified tales i've heard, they were trying to shave lbs. from the proto type and were determined to trim the car down to 2400 lbs. Or is this just another fabrication that has been passed around so long that it has become "fact"?

I wouldn't let one side set up before torqueing. djwarner tightens in a circular pattern. I've always treated them like a head gasket. tighten from the center out. I doubt the direction is as important as clean surfaces, no dimples and most important. GRADUALLY tighten them but don't over tighten. DJwarner, What is the torque torque spec. for pan bolts?

To solve the problem of slipping gaskets on small block Chevy valve covers, we would tie the gasket to the cover, thru the mounting holes with thread. Just cut off the exposed thread after torqueing.

Busted!

Interesting estimates. Patcon, Was it the front or the rear that you could lift? I'm guessing the front. 350 lbs. does sound a bit on the light side. Comparing the two cars I'm working on, one of them would be about 75-100 lbs. lighter than the other due to rust.

What is the weight of a stripped body? I've got one stripped of everything but the suspension and it already feels as if a good push would tip it off the jackstands.

Wisdom

Back to the subject of heated carbs for a moment. I was looking at the ZTherapys' master price list in the core charge section and found this advice. "Intake halves without the water pipes available on request. The water HEATS the intake charge. GOOD in the Montana winter. BAD year round in LA. Don't run water, unless your Z is cold blooded to distraction." Panama? Hmmm. I now return you to brake boosters. OOPS, double post.

Back to the subject of heated carbs for a moment. I was looking at the ZTherapys' master price list in the core charge section and found this advice. "Intake halves without the water pipes available on request. The water HEATS the intake charge. GOOD in the Montana winter. BAD year round in LA. Don't run water, unless your Z is cold blooded to distraction." Panama? Hmmm. I now return you to brake boosters.

The Cuda is way cool. Friend of mine has a lucrative hobby replacing rusted sheet metal on Mopars. The only cars I've seen that rust as bad as Zs. Of course, I've only seen the ones that need work. Much rust on yours?

Gav240Z PM sent.

Hi Sarah Good hearing from you even if the news could be better. These setbacks in our lives always seem, at the time, to be totally negative. However, in all negatives there are positives. At first, it's a stretch to find them and frequently it takes a while but at the very least they can bring out the best in us. The caring, nurturing part of us that gets shelved when we deal with ourselves to excess. Glad your friend has the love and support that she needs. My prayers for strength and healing will be headed your way. Not to make light of your probable EFI problem but I couldn't help but relate it to a Urologist with a bladder infection. This problem should be easy for an Ace like you. Best wishes Mark

Update on the disassembly. The topside is done. Underhood, interior (except for the two rusted rear bolts on the driver's seat), dash, heater box, foot pedals, hatch, doors, fender, glass (windshield is not avail. oops!) & wire harnesses are out. Quite a pile of goodys. Got a start on the bottom. Dropped the tank. I expected to see solid rust, but instead it has some shiny bare steel very splattered with something that resembles tar. The bit of liquid (varnish) in the bottom is black and has some flat chunks of a lighter color something floating on it. Like the skin on an open paint can. I wonder if someone treated this tank in the past and the coating went bad. I don't know how else there could be any shiny steel visible. I'll get a pic and we can all guess what it is. Next, pull fuel and brake lines, a few odds and ends, then the suspension.

At some point in time you're going to have to run her below half full to see if the problem arises again. As I recall, we never did pinpoint an internal tank leak as the definitive problem. Or is my memory getting as poor as my back?

The third link in the 1st post, just above the mirror pic shows them mounted.

In a PM, S30Driver has called her " Deliverance Z" ! Not bad as a temporary name. Kind of adds to the mystique.

Not seeing it would be one of the clues to use. Next step would be to see when & where it does leak.

Ah C,mon. I could challenge him with a harmonica. I'd definitely run if I heard someone calling, Here piggy, Here, piggy!!!

Yup, The 8/71 parts car I'm taking apart has the vent in the c pillar, not the hatch. Interestingly, it has the vert. defogger rear glass. When dealing with Zs, the year has little relevance. Build date is everything.