Mark Maras

I thought that deep rich red patina was from salt water. You just can't get that special texture and variegated maroon color from rain.

IMO, Ignore the marks and rotate it until the tang is correct.

Be sure to give us an update. Hoping for success.

The various hydro carbons that make up gasoline have boiling points from 100` f - 400` f. The formula for gas is not precise and the quantity of components can vary from refinery to refinery. If the problem is new to a known working engine, Cliff may be right. The question now is how to cure it. A tankful of gas from a different station might be an easy fix or eliminate gas as the problem.

What are the chances of getting an autographed copy of the revised edition?

IMO, to eliminate the obvious, (no offense to the Cap'n) a complete tuneup is the first thing to do. It should be done sooner rather than later. I had one of those high RPM misses years ago. I convinced myself that it had to be something beyond the obvious (apologies again) and after much head scratching and many w.t.f. moments, it was finally cured with new plugs.

I'm visualizing this part, based upon the description, as a cover to protect the rear of the headlight bucket (and mounting screws) from all the crap that flies up onto it from the tires. Being familiar with the early 70 thru early 74's, I've never seen that part. However. Every time I had to remove a headlight bucket, I wished the car had a one. Did the 280's have a part like that?

Amelia Earhart? Danica Patrick?

Yeah sure. I remember when they introduced the idea of paying for TV channels. They said no commercials back then too.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I always felt the same. Although I've never flown in either one, a P51 Mustang or a Supermarine Spitfire are the two that come to mind.

Are there any deep vertical scratches in No. 1, or did you get lucky?

If the pistons are rising equally, I think the butterflys must be opening. It would seem (IMO) that the problem is in either in the linkage, (doubtful) or it's just a basic "out of sync problem". Have you tried going through the synchronization procedure again?

I'm assuming that when you block the carb with your hand, you're feeling a lot of suction. Fuel level appears to be normal in the bowl. Is it possible that the nozzle is staying down in the full choke position even though the choke knob is pushed into the off position? Occasionally, the flat linkage piece that connects the cable to the nozzle needs a bit of a twist to function properly. Try pushing the nozzles up from the bottom with the choke knob off and see if either one will "click" into place. A bit of lithium grease on the sides of the nozzles is a good idea too. Kinda grasping at straws but I've not experienced a carb that does nothing when the piston is lifted.

That might do the trick. Google says that motor oil boils at 572` F.

If you push the choke off too soon, the engine will stumble (mixture is too lean) when you accelerate or it will die at idle. Keep in mind the choke can be used in any position as the engine warms up. Ideally, one gives the engine only as much choke as it needs during the warm-up cycle. As the engine gradually warms, the choke can be gradually pushed off.

Unless you're prepared to pay top dollar, there will always be rust to deal with. Some rusted areas are easier to deal with than others. Flat panels (floor pan patch) are relatively easy but the compound curve of the fender well under the battery is a tough one to replicate. Also, when you get into the edges of the panels where they overlap adjacent panels and are welded to other panels, things get very difficult. The rust just keeps going and going. Those two rusted areas on the 280 are a good example.

Great way to start the day. A big cup of coffee and your (audio porn) video. It sounds fantastic. Well done. Congratulations.

Ditto

I bought a whole (-engine & trans) 71 Z at a private wrecking yard a couple of years ago. The receipt says $500.00 - parts. No title and they pulled all the ID tags except the stamp on the firewall.

And $100.00 of that is dash cap.

The fact that it doesn't run well when it's cold or under a load could indicate a lean mixture. Might be a good idea to install a temporary fuel pressure gauge so you can cross that off your list of gremlins. When it's idling and missing, have you been able to isolate the problem to any one cylinder? How do the plugs look?