Mark Maras

Hopefully they aligned the dowel pin holes in both parts.

After the mech. pump.

If it's lean and stumbling, ease the choke on, it will improve. If it's rich it will run the same or worse.

I'd adapt a clothes dryer vent hose (duct tape and something else) to the exhaust and vent hose fittings into a wall , window or door. I'd also buy a carbon monoxide detector. Many years of welding has taught me not to vent the exhaust into an oncoming breeze. Some of it will find it's way back in. venting to the side or down wind is best.

The landau top contact adhesive will work well. That's what our local upholsterer uses. I used 3M headliner adhesive in an aerosol can. Good stuff. One can was all I needed for a Corolla headliner. Don't go cheap with the foam. It's the part that fails after years of heat and cold.

If I wasn't going to fix them myself, I'd remove them and take them to a mechanic to adjust the floats rather than risk a fire. My last resort would be drive it with a fire extinguisher handy.

I doubt that I would have recognized Cody five years later although I see he still likes to pose with his legs crossed.

Nothing wrong with having the axles balanced but because they turn approximately 3 1/2 times slower than the drive shaft I've never experienced or heard of a balance problem with them. Driveshaft balance problems are very common however.

A few things can cause the problem. Fuel pressure too high (I like 3.5 psi), floats set too high or crud in the needle and seat valves.

Chemically treat, remove and paint any and all rust spots when I first see them.

I haven't gotten one.

There shouldn't be any detectable slop in the u-joints in any direction.

Or if it's Lucas, it's a smoke fitting.

I agree. Over the years it always seemed that the lock nuts were tighter than I had tightened them. I found that just giving the wrench a good bump (not enough to hurt) with my hand would secure them.

I believe they're closed cell foam. An easy test would be weigh it, submerge it in fuel for a day or two and reweigh it.

Thanks for the video. Do the other plugs show the same intermittent spark? I'm betting no.

@jalexquijano Have you tried the spark tester recently without a different distributor? Plug the tester into each spark plug and see if there's a poor spark on #4.

Yeah, I've still got that gut feeling that the problem lies between the rotor and the sparkplugs. We know all the components are quality products but the connections are what I'd like to confirm. That cheap inline spark tester in post #152 would be a definitive test.

Google "appliance wheel center caps".

Cereal box gasket saturated with grease or oil.

I'd make one and use a paper punch for the bolt holes.

@jalexquijano A spark tester is an excellent idea and cheap too.

There's something that ZedHead mentioned a while back as a possibility and that's a bad oil ring in #4. We've covered most, if not all, of the easy things. How does one check to see if an oil ring is bad without pulling a piston? The only thing I can think of is a borescope?

So, not enough miles driven to determine oil usage?

What about oil usage? Miles per quart or how often do you top it up?