Mark Maras

Welcome. Your new Z looks like an excellent survivor.

Perhaps a method to improve the original Z wipers? They certainly needed it.

It makes me wonder how many of us could have, or still can, build a display engine. At the very least it's a very inventive way to sell near worthless parts.

I think that I would try to sell it as is. There may be someone out there with the desire for an early Z and the skills to restore it. However, I wouldn't be able to resist the urge to get it running if the engine will turn over. And, having been there before, prep it for a test run around the neighborhood.

I have stripped all the tar from a 240Z. I was surprised to find more rust in places that seemed impossible. Like in the center of a tar mat, that was sealed all the way around. If you don't remove it, you'll always wonder what is lurking under the tar.

I'm guessing it was for ground effects and not getting rid of exhaust in the cabin. I wonder if it worked for either one?

I liked my 240 seats until It went on the track. I couldn't believe how much I slid from right to left and left to right. One shouldn't have to concentrate on staying in the seat while keeping the car on the road.The next race I packed myself in with a pillow on each side. That helped a great deal but seats that fit would be a major improvement when it comes to spirited driving.

I haven't used any 3M rubbing compound in a few years but I remember using it with a damp (water) rag. Now I wonder if it's a petroleum base why and how does water mix with it? My first thought is it has something like alcohol in it. The reasoning is, alcohol is one of the few solvents that will mix with oil and water.

A brief Google search for hydrotreated light petroleum distillate synonyms, I found dearomatized kerosene. Evidently they dearomatized many hydrocarbons. If one couldn't find dearomatized kerosene I wonder if odorless mineral spirits would work?

This may be too obvious, but have you tried water? I think it's water soluble.

You mention time, bodywork and paint. Bodywork is the big time killer in your project. The metalwork will take a long time but not as long as getting it ready for paint. Just the sanding seems to take forever. If the paint job is a large part of the quote, I'd get a quote for the metalwork and a separate quote for the bodywork to get it ready for paint. Then paint it yourself. It's not that difficult unless you're going for pearl or metal flake.

I should have included valve seals but i meant changing the valve seats to prevent premature wear due to the lack of lead in today's fuel.

I don't know if the ferrules are available but I'm sure you've already thought about how to make them.

I'd pull the pan and check out the cylinders, and bearings. Then the head and change the valve seats. Other than that, at 40,000 miles, i'd expect to still see hone marks in the cylinder walls.

Life is like driving a new road, you don't know what's around the next corner.

Maybe a pin hole that only opens under pressure?

@siteunseen, @Dadsun Have you tried easing the choke on during the flutter? Over the years I found the choke to be an easy method for checking lean mixtures.

They were very common here back in the day. Most people stuck them inside one of the bumpers.

Is it a magnetic mount, It looks like a "Hide-a-Key" box from back in the 60s and 70s.

Or Lilith.

I've always thought the 240 looked much like the 68-73 Ferrari 365 GTB/4 (Daytona). If we looked long and hard we could probably find someone who thinks Goertz designed that too.

A few years back @rossiz grew tired of screwing around with his EFI and installed SUs on his 280. It ran great and no more tow trucks after the change until an accident brought another one.

A looong time ago we used to pull the spring from one of the centrifugal advance weights to get full advance at lower RPMs..

I'd be tempted to submerge the cap or the o-ring (if it's removable without destroying it) in wintergreen oil to soften it.

Did you get it off?