Mark Maras

If fumes are still present drop some dry ice into the tank. When you can see the CO2 vapor coming out the filler, it's safe.

It is plug and play but not quite simple. Even if you drop the dist. back in and it aligns with the tang on the oil pump drive shaft, the base has to be in the exact location (rotation wise) to ensure the ignition timing is the same as before, assuming it was correct before. It's a good idea to check the ignition timing anytime the dist. has been removed and replaced.

Nice seats. Nice fabrication work too. Does this mean you have a spare set of original seats with heaters?

I'm a bit confused. If you can push the pedal down with little to no pressure, the problem is in the disengagement. Is that we're talking about? That is almost always a hydraulic problem. You mentioned the fluids had been topped off. Was it losing fluid or can you account for the previous loss? If either cylinder is leaking, the area under the cylinder boot will be wet. If the cylinders aren't leaking and the system has been bled properly then the release fork and ball would be the next place to look. I have seen pressed steel release forks crack at the edges and bend.

A happy birthday to Jai (redwing). See you in a few weeks.

This one sounds mechanical to me. If the problem was in the hydraulics the problem would be a clutch not disengaging (pedal down). Do you have any pedal pressure aside from the pedal return spring? Any engagement at all. Does the car move at all when the trans is in 1st and the clutch pedal is up?

I'm going to assume the best. I think he's enjoying his excellent running, SU fed, 280.

I believe you're referring to "Door slamming issue fixed - finally" by Madkaw. Post #44 has the profile dimensions.

I agree with checking the differential. I replaced my support and strap because of a clunk as you described. While you're under there wrestling with the differential looking for movement, check the u-joints too. There shouldn't be any movement in them.

Ditto on the CLR. I had one that took a 48 hour soak to get it clean. Worked perfect afterwards.

Kathy and I will be there. Registered and flight is booked. Can't wait to meet all of you.

PM sent

@SoCalJim I'm sure Jai would appreciate the spring. I'll PM her address to you. Thanks.

@SoCalJim Thanks @Redwing

Datsun did add an elec. fuel pump to the 73 and 74 Zs to try and alleviate fuel percolation and vapor lock problems with limited success. Regardless of the number or type of pumps the fuel pressure at the carbs needs to be somewhere in the 3.5 - 4 p.s.i. range. More pressure than that will force fuel past the float valves (needle and seat) and over fill the float chamber.

@Patcon Are those the specs for the clutch or brake spring?

@Patcon Thanks for the info. I'm thinking the easiest way to replace the clutch spring is to source one from a good hardware store.

Jai (Redwing) found a spring in the drivers side foot well. Looking at the pic she sent it appears to be either the clutch or brake pedal return spring. My guess is clutch spring. A couple of questions. Are the clutch and brake springs interchangeable? I have a good brake spring and the nylon? spring perch from a late 71. Will the late 71 spring work on an early 76 280? Thanks.

How far down does the pedal go down on the first push? How far down on the second push?

@gnosez @Will S

Likewise. I've learned a great deal about Weber's from this thread. Thanks and keep up the good work.

The original problem may have been caused by an elec. pump "putting out a boat load of pressure" that was forcing fuel past the float valves. At this point in time I'd do a fuel pressure and fuel volume test as well as checking the float valves and the float height.

I seem to remember a part like that near the elec. fuel pump in the rear. I assumed back when I saw one it was a rock deflector of some sort.

An assumptions here. The engine doesn't cut out, it just runs out of power under load. I had a similar thing happen years ago. While driving my 240 down the freeway my speed dropped to 45 mph. Kicked in the clutch and revved it to 6 grand. Put it back into third accelerated at full throttle. It wouldn't go past 45 mph. Second gear, same thing. 45 mph was the limit. My Dad knew immediately what it was. Lack of fuel. Mine was corrected (temporarily) by blowing thru the firewall filter in reverse direction. Then a new fuel filter. Hope yours is that easy.

The fact that #1 looks good and others are carboned up makes me think the problem is electrical. Probably somewhere in the cap, rotor, plug wires, plug wire connections. New plugs, resistance check on the plug wires, double check the plug wire connections and a good quality cap and rotor should clear it up. Jalex in Panama had a problem similar to this. #4 plug was always a little darker than the rest. He had good NGK plug wires, at the time. He replaced the plugs, and bought a Bosch cap and rotor. His #4 gremlin disappeared with those changes.