Mark Maras

Collins English Dictionary, A balk ring (synchro) is a rotating part of a gearbox that prevents the gears from engaging too early.

Kathy can always tell when I'm watching track videos. I'm in my chair, leaning into the corners, head forward under braking and head back while accelerating, oblivious to everything around me. I've got to go back and watch that one again. Ten full minutes in the zone. I love it.

2nd is always the first one to go bad and 3rd is usually close behind it. I think you'll find more than just 2nd worn. If I wanted to go cheap, I'd remove both housings, take a good look, check clearances and replace the obvious bad bits. However, (there's always a however) if time and money are available, all new synchros, all new bearings, and all new seals will freshen it properly. You'll have more info for decision making when you take a look inside. We know you'll "do the right thing".

@Patcon Over at 510realm.com, I found a post on repair kits for 510 hinges. NAPA 675-5157. They used the bushings in the kit but not the pins. Hope this helps. Those lower hinges are expensive.

The co. in Ukraine?, Russia? is www.diol.ru , if anyone is interested. Genuine Nissan lower hinges, Less than $67.00 US. Were Datsuns sold in the USSR back then? If not, where did the parts come from, if they do have them?

I think the answer to that question depends on one's method and the accuracy of measuring the vertical movement of the piston. Anyone had a dial indicator on a piston top lately?

I didn't go in the front door. I googled the first part # and added hinge. (82400-21002,hinge) Their site was on the list, clicked on it and the page with that hinge and the price popped up. Mysteriously, there seems to be a Co. in Russia or Ukraine that lists the hinges. Didn't investigate that one.

Thanks. That would seem to rule out water in the gas. I doubt that one could go twenty miles before the contaminated fuel made it to the engine. My previous experience has been less than ten miles.

Gut feeling. Have you considered a bad ignition condenser? A bad one is hard to diagnose and can have one chasing one's tail. I don't know how to test one. Back in the day, we'd just install a new one. They were cheap back then and still less than $10.00 at O'Reilly's today.

@cclxxxz How many miles did you drive after the fill-up and the engine dying?

Water in the bottom of an underground tank can get stirred up while the tank is being filled. If you're fueling your car at the same time, a small amount of water can get pumped into your tank along with the fuel. I'd try a bottle of Heet and see if the problem returns. Another possibility is a rust hole in the top of your tank. A bit far fetched but I've seen it in the past. 240260280 has some good ideas too. I'm going with fuel because it was the last thing you did before the problem started.

Possibly water in the fuel? Yeah, I'm bunkhouse at HybridZ.

The lack of symmetry is likely in the float settings. That's what I'd check first.

That's correct.

Halfway between the start of piston movement either direction. TDC should line up with the largest mark on your vibration dampener or timing tab depending on the year. To get it exact, "back in the day" we used a piston stop and a degree wheel. There's probably something electronic that will find it by now.

Pulled some part #s from carpartsmanual.com 1968-1973. rear upper rh 82400-21002 rear lower rh 80420-21004 spring 80422-73001 rear upper lh 82401-21002 rear lower lh 80421-21004 Check out sgnauto.com. I ran the first two #s. They list the upper hinge for $27.00. Lower hinge is $97.00. I didn't go farther than that. The business appears to be wholesale only. Not an insurmountable hurdle, IMO. Haven't found any on Craigslist yet.

What year is Cody's wagon?

@PatconWhat years will work and which three are we looking for?

Might be a good question for Matsuo San.

Years ago I cut up a couple of 11ga. steel fence ties (galv. steel wire) to use as the pins. Painted the exposed tip. Worked great.

Ford, IBM. There's a long list

Rule #1, DON'T BEND THE BRASS NEEDLE that protrudes from the piston bottom. Start with a can of lacquer thinner, a soft brush, and some cotton rags. Clean every surface that you can reach. All those black surfaces in the pic are actually aluminum. When everything is clean reassemble the piston and dome onto the carb. The piston should slide up and down with no interference. Add 20 wt oil or ATF to the fill line on the small black stem. It might be a good idea to take a look in the float chambers to see if there's any flotsam or jetsom in there.

Ditto. Is the coil wire to the dist. putting out a good hot spark or do you mean you have 12 volts going into the coil? If you've got a hot spark at the coil wire, the points look good and are adjusted properly, replace the condenser.

Don't know your height but I'm 5'7" and my knees hit the bottom of the steering wheel when using the brake and the clutch on my 521.

Charles is correct. You will have oil everywhere when you start it without the valve cover, IF it's not plugged up. But, IMO, it's a good idea to visually check the spray pattern to be sure the cam is getting oiled. I had an oil tube that was gunked up internally and sprayed little oil. It had to be cleaned out with lacquer thinner and the holes cleaned with a torch tip cleaner before it would oil properly.