Mark Maras

Adjusting the valves may help those readings. 165 and above on all cylinders would be good.

No decision is a good decision. Let the Z decide what it needs.

Cutting the A-pillars vs replacing everything that's rusted on this one, Hmm. That A-pillar doesn't look as daunting as the rust option. You would want to weld all the internal joints and work your way out on both sides. It would require cutting a piece from the outside layers above and below the joint to provide access to the inside sheet metal, then inserting a patch on the outside layers that would bridge the joints.

Think it's overpriced now? Throw a tarp over it and wait for another five years. It and or its parts will double or triple in price. Looks like a 401Z plan to me.

I don't believe that half shafts spin fast enough to have a vibration problem and I've seen steeper prop shaft angles (which spin 3 1/2 - 4 times faster than the half shafts) on V-8, 4 wheel drive pick-ups. What was the official reason for the squaring up the angle? I can't bring myself to believe it was u-joints or vibration.

Any theories? The little I know about u-joints, axles, and prop shafts is the installed angle at the u-joints should be the same on both ends.

It would be a good idea to pull the domes and pistons. Clean them with lacquer thinner and a clean rag. DON'T swap parts from one carb to the other and DON'T bend the needles. Let us know what they look like inside. Pics are better.

Any idea where the oil is going? Is there any oil on the outside or inside of the suction chamber, the piston or the venturi?

The oil level mark is on the black stem between the cap and the brass "jiggly bit" on the other end. Where does the oil level end up filling them using your method?

After you've filled the carbs with oil, how much resistance do you feel when you put the caps back on. On mine, I had to push them down with my thumb before the threads would engage. There was quite a bit of resistance. It took a couple of seconds to push each one down. Doesn't seem like much time but it's a short distance.

My 4 screws always stayed at the mark on the stem. Interesting, I'm going to do a little research.

Curtis Salgado is still alive and well in Portland. One of my favorites to listen to live. He filled the void left when Paul Delay's passed on.

That one is a good candidate for shark's mouths on the front corners. Ala, the Flying Tigers P40's in WWII.

I hope it's not too late to go back and get a few of those unicorn items before the synchronicity fades away. Trim, clips, screws, bolts, and fasteners of all types (Series one, hatch vent clips for example) are worth very little to a wrecking yard, but to anyone restoring a Z, they're priceless.

I should have added that I've never seen or heard of one.

I don't ever remember seeing one of those back in the seventies.

Jung called that kind of timing Synchronicity. You did stop on the way home and buy some lottery tickets, right?

And cut a sunroof hole in the top so your knuckles don't scrape the headliner.

The wipers were barely adequate when they came from the factory, and they get worse at speed. 80 mph and above they start to lift.

I'm curious the weight of oil everyone is using that is experiencing a lean condition at WOT. Heavier weight oil is supposed to richen the mixture at WOT.

The cereal box cardboard doesn't break down in oil. I've never had one fail and I've made quite a few gaskets over the years.

Sounds like the problem is in the hydraulics and or adjustments. The question that remains is where did the fluid go? Have you pulled the rubber cups from the ends of the cylinders to see if either is wet inside?

Were any of the brass synchro ring teeth from one gear (2nd) worn more than another?

Recheck the battery voltage at idle and at 2500 - 3000 rpms.

The easiest items to assess are the brass synchro (balk) rings. The teeth should be sharp, wedge-shaped. Usually, the second gear teeth are rounded. Third gear, a little better. Fourth, better yet. There should be measurements in the FSM to assess the amount of wear using a feeler gauge. Got to thinking about our definition of baulk. Does it grind (snck) a bit going into second if one shifts it too fast or is it just plain difficult to get it into second?