Mark Maras

Some brands of u-joints will allow you to remove both caps after you've pressed one out. Other brands will necessitate pressing the joint the other direction to remove the other cap from the outside like the first one. Although I've never compared the two I suspect the difference is in the outer dimensions of the cross.

Keep pushing on it until the cap on the other side can be removed. If the u-joint has a zerk fitting, it may have to be removed for clearance.

When making gaskets a paper punch is the best tool for punching out the bolt holes.

The mark of a true Craftsman is one who cares about quality more than time and money. Are your expectations too high? Not at all. I suspect that the PO or his mechanic had never done quality work and didn't understand the concept of Craftsmanship and pride in a job well done.

Please, one of you two send (lend) a set to The Capn' so he can start making more.

I agree. Rule out all other possibilities before pulling the trans. The pilot bushing lies in the center of the flywheel. The trans. input shaft nose fits into the pilot bushing. If there isn't sufficient clearance between the two the bushing will grab the trans input shaft and turn it even when the clutch pedal is depressed. Lack of lubrication on a new tight bushing could cause it to grab.

Reviewing an old Grose -Jet products list confirms Hi 602 is for the round tops but I don't see a short or long description. Any guess why your pack says short?

Thanks Cliff. That's the thread that discusses the float tang and the newer style needles and seats.

A possibility is the ramp angle of the float tang. I'm going to let @siteunseen describe the problem and the fix.

I doubt it's in the u-joints. U-joints will click,clunk as soon as power is applied or removed. I hear your noise after the engine starts to rev.

Special, one of a kind heat treated panels with cor 10 patina. Big bucks as wall art.

What was the cause of the sticking butterfly?

A silk purse from a sow's ear. Beautiful craftsmanship from top to bottom, front to back.

Just because one can, doesn't mean one should!

@240zSean PM sent.

@240zSean I may have a lot of the small bits you'll need. I bought a late 71 rolling shell (no title, reasonably good shape by today's standards) a while back that was missing the engine, trans (auto), half shafts and some interior parts. I disassembled a lot of it but it's still a roller. I still have all the wire harnesses, brake lines and brake line clips are still on the shell, and lots of parts in boxes that came from it.

I'm leaning toward the trans, input shaft binding in the pilot bearing (bushing) in the flywheel. The fact that you can defeat the surge with the clutch would tend to rule out a clutch adjustment.

@Civilizedape Do your SUs have the original flat top suction chambers or round top suction chambers. The suction chamber is the most noticeable part on an SU. 73 and 74 Zs came with flat-tops but most have been changed to the round tops which most (but not all) consider to be the better carbs. If yours are the flat-tops I'll let @Zup and @Captain Obvious sort it out. Most of my experience is in round tops so we'll start with pressure isn't the problem. Pressure is only to get the fuel from the tank to the carbs. After that it's just a matter of supply and demand. There is another filter (banjo filter) where the fuel lines enter the float bowl. These rarely get checked. I'd also pull the tops from the float bowls and see if there's fuel in them. That would be a good time to check the float levels and the needles and seats.

I'm going to say around $600.00 - $800.00 depending on condition. Don't know your height but I'm 5'7" and my knee would hit the bottom of the steering wheel (with seat back all the way) whenever I put my foot on the brake pedal. It got to be kind of a PITA after a couple of years.

@JessHS130, @ntownsen, @Jon Dickson, @alm102486, @Gwen. @Robin. From our Member map.

Diesel would probably work assuming it doesn't evaporate and leave a sticky residue like WD40.

My Dad used to "fix" his work (logger) pocket watch by soaking it in clean diesel oil and letting it drain. He kept cheap ones going for years that way. Would it be worthwhile to lightly lube the works of these old clocks with a super light weight oil like turbine oil?

How do the pedal covers and the carpet below the gas pedal look?

I wouldn't spend too much time trying to make sense of the PO's thought processes. They might start to make sense. That said, have you searched the top and the bottom of the block for the reference stamps that show the block's orientation in the car?

Check out the thread, "We're bringing back the flat tops". Lots of info there that may change your mind about them.