Mark Maras

You're correct that there were no Nissan dealers back then in the early 70s, however, there was a Nissan (factory) building in Beaverton, Oregon. I knew a fellow who worked there.

There are those exceptions that were driven on the highways most of the time. They generally don't show as much interior wear.

Remove the Kubota names and put Tonka on it. After all, It's just a big sandbox toy for big kids.

3.5 psi is a good pressure for carbs. Have you done a fuel volume test. Pressure and volume are not the same thing. You can have one without the other.

Things (prevention) are more clear to a lot of people but not everyone. It really is too bad that mask wearing is becoming a political statement. This latest surge is caused by lack of social distancing, period. When people get together without due care and caution, there'll be a surge in Covid-19 in that area within a week. !5%-30% (depending where in the world they are) of hospitalized patients require renal therapy (or outpatient dialysis) due to kidney failure. Currently, there is not enough equipment or technicians to deal with a substantial surge in Covid-19.

Resistance causes heat at the point of resistance. If the blades that hold the fuse are clean, take a look underneath it. Frequently the soldered wire connection to the blades needs resoldered.

The installation instructions caution about moisture (water, coffee, etc.) and state that the passenger compartment is recommended because if it does trigger you won't have to get out of the car to reset it.

Are saying the star wheel and the hole don't line up, making them non-adjustable manually?

A quick look on Trico's website didn't turn up any of your numbers. They do have 15 different wipers listed for early Zs. Left and right wipers are the same.

Ditto, 10/70 build date.

I agree. Has the car been repainted?

Put about a quarter cup of your favorite penetrant in each cylinder and a diaper (nappy) under the block before you store it. Those pistons may need to come out later.

Welcome. Your 260 appears to be in quite good shape and quite original. Congratulations on a great find. Most of us have had to start on a Z that was in much worse shape than yours. What are your plans for it?

Often times the wear on the rubber pedal covers is a good indication of the miles . Not an exact science but considerable wear could show the difference between 60,000 miles and 160,000 miles.

Yep, it usually is the slave cylinder. both times it happened to me I was enroute to somewhere. I can tell you from experience that a Z is very easy to drive without an operating clutch pedal. Little problem shifting up or down (as long as you match revs to the trans speed) , the fun comes at a stop light when you have to turn off the engine. 1st gear, half throttle, turn the key, it chugs forward a couple of feet and you're on your way.

You can also pull the rubber grommet on the bellhousing where the clutch release arm enters. While a friend pushes the clutch pedal look inside the bellhousing to see if the pressure plate is moving.

The rotor should point directly at #1 when at TDC.

And loosen the rubber boot on the slave cylinder to check for fluid. It should be dry inside. If it's wet replace the cylinder and consider replacing the master cylinder at the same time. They both have a similar lifespan.

I believe someone added the paint job and stickers to improve the looks of their wall art. If you value the paint and stickers keep it as is. If you clean it up, you'll have a normal valve cover.

My early 71 (late 70 build) valve cover had no coating.

Mine started missing at around 5000' (tuned at sea level). You'll know when to lean the carbs out 1/4 turn.

I'd continue on with liberal amounts of lacquer thinner. All that will happen is you'll remove the aluminum color spray paint and get down to the original finish which was bare aluminum. IMO, the stickers were added after the paint job.

Much better in the stock color.

Does the colortune change color (turn blue) as you try to accelerate and lose power?

Is it possible you blew (literally) the float out of adjustment. I'd double check it. You can compare fuel level one bowl to the other by removing the domes and pistons, pull the choke on and look down the nozzles to see if the fuel is the same level in both nozzles.