Mark Maras

I've used both and worn out both. They both worked fine and lasted about the same length of time. Given the option of cast or stamped, I would go with the cast. It looks like a better part even if it's not. It's a perception thing, IMO.

No, you shouldn't need to modify the quarter panels. I believe the body shop said all was well before the weatherstrip went in. If that's true, the problem is the weatherstrip. As I stated previously, if you search using the term weatherstrip, you'll find plenty of folks who have had this same problem and have some creative methods to solve it. It's possible the body shop had to adjust the door latches to allow the doors to close and latch.

A couple of months ago there was some discussion about Maxima diesel crankshafts and their rarity and high price. There's one on Portland Craigslist $700.00, along with a fresh, running L24 w-4 speed $1500.00, BW 5 speed $700.00 and some other NICE looking goodies. Post ID# 5779676531. He was gathering goodies to build a stroker but is going another direction now.

I don't remember who it was either but it seems it would be easy to design one that bolts to the tie down (tow hook) bolt holes. I'm assuming that would be a good attachment point for a light weight trailer hitch.

Use the term "Weatherstrip" in your SEARCH for information. This is a common problem with aftermarket WS. The reason some folks are using KIA weatherstrip is because some WS manufacturers use a stiffer foam or a different cross section configuration. There are plenty of opinions and ideas for a solution on the first few pages. Good luck.

My son used one on his 81 RX7 after the fire, caused by a shorted map light hot wire. It's use at that time was to prevent another fire while it was sitting after repairs. After a few months of both fretting and confidence building, we took it off. It worked very well. I did notice that if it wasn't screwed down very tight there was a loss of voltage. As far as theft prevention, it's cheap and effective. Just take the green knob off. It can be defeated with a jumper cable though. To correct the memory loss in his stereo, we disconnected the radio power wire from the harness and ran a fused wire with a ring connector from the battery terminal to the radio hot wire. Pretty basic and quite ugly until it was secured and hidden with flexible loom covers. A new battery cable with an extra wire would have been a better option.

I don't have any advice as to which head to run but keep an eye out on Craigslist, Seattle and Portland. There are still some bargains to be found.

I've used rifle barrel cleaning brushes mounted in a drill motor to clean those bolt holes. Many sizes to choose from and they're cheap.

If it overheated when you were moving, it has nothing to do with the fan. The fan isn't needed when the car is moving fast enough to push air through the rad. A complete inspection of the cooling system and a compression test would be where I would start. I had this problem years ago and corrected it with a cooling system flush, re-cored the radiator (3 rows) and added a shroud for good measure. The compression was good. No problems after that.

To each his own.

Thanks, I stand corrected. I didn't think that there were that many differences. I thought most of those changes came mid model year like most of the others Datsun did. I did know about the carb change. Not many late 240s or 260s with flat tops on the road any more, except maybe the Cap'n.

Hypothetically, if one put late 73 240 emblems on an early 74 260, I think a vin search would be the only way to tell. IMO, as the supply of 240s continues to decline, the 260s will be the next to go up in value. The last year of Su's along with one year of production (if you go by model numbers) will become desirable. If you don't NEED the money right away, hang on to it any way possible. You won't be sorry.

The voices return. Sheesh, I wish I was in a position to jump on it. Keep it or flip it, (against my nature) either way you couldn't lose. That one appears to be a real gem. It's possible it's an automatic (Oh, Boo Hoo) and that's why the asking price is reasonable. If someone wants me to take a look at it with the intention of buying it, I'll do it but the temptation to look at it for myself is too great and I'm too weak. It appears to be in Salem, about an hour South of me. Let me know. Could be one that @Blue would want to look at.

The current patina looks good with the butterscotch interior. No carbs isn't an issue. Someone saved the new owner the time it takes to remove the flat tops that were probably on it.

Impressive. Did the strut bracket do that? I'm sure many of us have tales of woe due to a lapses in reasoning for any number of reasons. Might be an interesting theme for a new thread. "Z injuries. AKA Don't do this." A picture is worth a thousand words.

I agree with the Captain's observation about the early SUs having little to no problem. My early 71, for example. 20+ years driven daily, year round, never had VL, even once. Stock set up. No elec. f. pump, just the mechanical one on the engine. Pressure was slightly more than 3 psi as I recall. (BTW, we used to run a 327 in a dragster that had plenty of fuel at 3 psi.) Clear filter on the firewall was never full. It ran at 1/4 full or less. No vents in the hood. Seemingly everything that should have caused VL didn't. So, we know the later round tops and flat tops were plumbed for hot water and that can contribute to VL. It seems that the addition of an elec. pump did little to nothing to eliminate VL, if that was it's purpose. Nor did the hood vents seem to help much. They did change the fuel rail from two lines to three later on. Could that play into this? I don't know the reason for that change. What was the third line for? Drilling the restriction in the line is an interesting idea. It would be interesting to put a f.p. gauge on it before and after. You're not going to hurt anything until the pressure drops well below 3 psi. It doesn't take much pressure to fill the float bowls. There's no restriction until the needle and seat close. Usually running low on gas in the bowls is from lack of fuel volume not poor pressure.

That product looks way cool and you don't have to worry about contamination from the oil. Are you going to cut a shallow v in the crack for better penetration?

That's quite a list. Look'in good.

I agree, if the bearings and crank look good go with it. It was a good day if you made that kind of progress without any broken bolts or studs.

Welcome to the club. Your Z is beautiful. Rarely do we see one with original paint that looks that good. Congratulations on a rare find. What parts are you looking for? Lots of parts here in the NW.

Or the driver didn't realize how far the nose stuck out beyond his field of vision.

A while back we ran water pump corrosion up the flag pole. As I recall we didn't come up with a consensus of opinion but the question was posed about the Z alternator being grounded through the adjuster into a water pump bolt. Over many years corrosion in the bolt threads prevents a good connection and it goes looking for an easier path through the water pump. Anyone think a dedicated ground wire for the alternator might alleviate the water pump corrosion? Well, that and regular maintenance to the cooling system. I took a pump off my 260 that had holes eaten into it so big that you could stick your fingertip into them. It must be a fairly common problem. Thoughts?

Door Card Porn. They look great.

@Redwing

Thanks, one of the Jims. Now I can find out if the components are all there that is if if he returns my email. Meanwhile I'll talk to Jai and figure out what RedBird needs.