Mark Maras

Zed, Thanks. The Nissan bulletin is great reading. A great description of the difference between vapor lock and percolation. It does sound like percolation is the problem.

All the plugs were fouled? I fail to see how fuel starvation (vapor lock) can foul plugs. If the definition of fouled is oily, black, sooty, etc.

Zed, Interesting idea. Kind of a cross between Myth Busters and Red Green. It's possible that stretchy motor mounts are part of the problem.

A close-out sale on parts?

The sheet metal and rivets could be bearing cages. How do the gears look? Was the sheared off piece still in the release bearing? Inspect the gears, shafts and check the clearances. It was likely popping out and not going into gears because of bad synchros.

Ditto, My kids can't understand how I get along without one.

You might try warming the panel with a hair dryer. You should gain additional flexibility.

Ditto. It would be great to be able to increase the assist in parking lots.

Pulling the trans isn't too difficult. If you do, be sure the car is high enough to clear the bell-housing when you slide the trans out from under the car. If you have an early 4-speed, the bell-housing can be unbolted from the trans. under the car.

I can't imagine what they could be but speakers. Stunning craftsmanship.

Odd, I don't recall any more noise from my flex-fan than the orig. clutch fan. Different styles or manufacturers possibly?

Oh Yeah. There's no doubt that a flex fan would amputate a finger(s), but even with my track record, I have never injured myself with one. Same goes with a chain saw. I have a lot of respect for both. It's not the obvious things that bite me. Out of curiosity I calculated the square inches of blade on my 70s era five blade flex fan, app 87.5 sq. in. (My orig. steel seven blade fan is hiding from me.) The eight bladed plastic fan on the 260 is 120 sq. in. I think the slipping clutch requires more surface area (mass) of fan blade to pull the same amount of air as a non clutched fan and might negate Cliff's theory of the pizza pan flex-fan. Sorry Cliff.

Keep in mind reduced drag means the fan is pulling less air. Especially when the car is not moving, which is when it's needed the most. Most of the road racers "back in the day" didn't use a fan. No need for one if the car is always moving. Take the fan off when the car goes on the track and just turn off the engine when the car isn't moving.

I wouldn't run the flex fan with the clutch. I think the reduction in the number of blades would require the flex fan turning at full engine speed, especially at idle. I'm not a big fan of clutches. Everyone I've turned by hand has different resistance than the others. I measured my old flex-fan assy. The spacer is 2" and the fan is 3/4" from the 3 row radiator.

Good call. I hadn't considered that. It would explain both carbs in tune and running too lean.

I ran a flex fan on mine for many years too. It was the style in the second pic with the big flaps. My theory was, lighter is better (it replaced the original heavy steel fan and clutch), it would pull more air at an idle, at low RPMs and at low speed than the skinny ones. Any faster than 10-15 mph, no fan is needed IMO. The big flaps flatten out at high RPMs reducing drag (HP loss). It functioned as expected and was a great mod on my first Z.

No clutch needed with the flex-fan. You will need a spacer to set the fan as close to the radiator as possible.

The hesitation and sputtering is lack of fuel. Now that both carbs appear too lean, given that the mixture screws are at 2 1/2 turns and assuming the needles are installed correctly, I'd suspect the float heights are too low. IF, you're double dog sure sure that everything is correct, you might try using a heavier wt. oil in the carbs. I always ran ATF but Datsun recommended 20wt. if I recall correctly. I"m not an expert on the effects of different wt. oils but everyone has a favorite that seems to work best in their carbs.

Hmmm. Interesting method for verifying the pump is working. Most likely the needle and seat in the rear carb. float chamber is stuck open or the float level is way too high. Pull the float chamber top, inspect the needle and seat and check the float level. If you don't have a spare gasket, sandwich the gasket in wax paper or foil and put it in a book to keep it from curling as it dries. Also it would be a good idea to check the banjo fuel filters on each carb. They're on top of the float bowl covers where the fuel line enters. They often get overlooked. Pull the spark plugs. Numbers 4-6 will be black due to the excess fuel. What color are 1-3? If they're tan in color, the front carb. is set reasonably close.

If I were doing it, wiring would be the major hurdle. For example, compare the wiring diagrams for a 1970 vs a 1973. I think all of the hard parts should be a plug and play. Datsun did change the half-shaft angles in the very early 240s. What is the build date of your shell?

Wow, like a dream come true. I wonder if it would remove rust from thin sheet metal without warping it.

I wish I could remember one classic example. Sorry to disappoint you. After thirty five years of marriage we've learned that participating in the others potentially frustrating project, and having differing opinions how it should be done, is not a good example of Peace on Earth.

How many turns down are the mixture screws? It's possible the float levels are too low. It definitely is a lean condition.

Does it have the original electric and mechanical fuel pumps? My first thought is the elec. pump in front of the tank isn't working. If the mechanical pump is there, you could pull the fuel line between the mechanical pump and the filter, put it in a container of gas and try to start it. One way or another the fuel pumps will need to be checked for pressure and volume flow. This is assuming that crud in the tank isn't blocking a line.

Caution is advised here.