Carl Beck

Yes - just put a jack or jack stand under the front of the diff. You just have to let it down a couple inches.

When people die doing something they loved - we all say; "well at least they died doing something they loved". There is no question in my mind that our 240Z's love carrying their original owners, at high speed in the left lane... Far better than being wiped out while sitting at a traffic light!! I'll list him with full honors as K.I.A. and with 42 years of service. FWIW, Carl B.

Looks great - seats with proper leg, hip and back support make a huge difference in driving enjoyment in these older Z's. Especially as you get older!! Just make sure they are securely bolted in place.. you don't want them coming lose in an accident.

That's the ticket...!! Carl B.

There is a larger difference between the early 260Z {240Z body} and the later body 260Z {280Z body}, than between the early 260Z and the 240Z. I'd take an early 260Z for your purposes.. FWIW, Carl B.

Remove the whole assembly. As stated, you would need spring compressors to re-install the springs anyway. I wouldn't mess with the spindle pins - unless you need to replace the bushings there. I do find it easier to replace the spindle pins - with the whole assembly off anyway. I take them to a friends shop where there is a 20Ton press. Soak them with Kroil for a couple days, then apply a little heat and PRESS. BTW - I'm guessing that you are actually replacing the shocks - not really the struts {yes/no?} If you are replacing the struts - then yes the spindle pins must come out. Carl B.

Hi Frank: I'm very glad to hear that you are OK - but very sorry for your loss. That is a real shame.. Carl B.

MSA has the heater core "listed" but when you call they usually don't have any. Not even at $299.00. With some aftermarket heater cores they are the same form, fit and function - but the inlets/oulets may be slightly different shape - which means you may have to modify or replace the heater hoses.. I would rather have OEM - - - but lacking that - - then I would rather have a new aftermarket replacement than have to put a 40 year old heater core back in... FWIW, Carl B.

Might see it flipped again... at $15K/$16K... seems that demand is picking up...

and Any way you look at it - bids up to $45K at Mecum are pretty surprising. A happy surprise for many I'm sure.

Hi E: Good observation - an older version was being loaded. Fixed the code - latest update was 22 Mar. 2011. Only a couple more reported "found". thanks, Carl B.

508 in Feb Pretty close - 5870 in the first half Pretty close - 12,081 17,951 Well - somewhat indirectly from the production plant. Kats was given pictures of the production schedule boards several years ago. FWIW, Carl B.

No mention of the actual mileage - but if it checks out to be rust free - with its original factory applied paint.. might be a bargain for someone. Certainly sounds like it is worth a look...

http://zhome.com/Racing//72OMSZColor.jpg Dunlop Wheels made in England. I tried to get a set in 1972 - BAP/GEON showed a listing for them - but they were not US DOT approved and they could not or would not order them at the time. FWIW, Carl B.

A couple years ago - I took an original set of springs to an automotive speciality shop - that had a spring rate measurement device. The set was off a 1970 240Z with about 80K original miles. All four springs checked out to be within the factory spec. Age doesn't seem to be much of a factor - but I'm sure that wear/tear are. It is possible to have springs that are sagging due to fatigue.. I'd measure their Free Length and if within the Factory Spec. - they are most likely OK. While it is hard, you can measure their compressed lenght - while on the car. The results would also give you a clue. The measurements can be found in the Factory Service Manuals. This is a good article on how to replace the stub axle bearings. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html If you have strut off the car - I've had luck heating the strut - then using a large brass hammer and piece of heavy steel plate - to pound the stub axle out from the inside. Make sure you leave the stub axle nut in place at the to of the treads. On one strut - I had to take it to friends 20 Top Press - and even then we had to heat the strut. Most of the time the above will work. Using wood - isn't effective. The wood absorbs/dissipates too much of the energy from the hammer blows. A large heavy brass hammer is most effective. FWIW, Carl B.

See the Pictures on the BRE2.net Web Site http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=bre2_510s_shop_floor_upper&Category_Code=brearchivephotos510s Looks like it could be the Customer Car build by BRE for customer in Jamaica. But it would take a lot more inspection to be sure.. FWIW, Carl B.

Here is one taken 42 years later - Mr. Brock with one of the 68 BRE Baja 510's. http://zhome.com/BRE/PeterWithBaja68510.jpg

Yes - that is my BRE Z - and it looks like a reflection off Greg Ira's GT-R. Neat picture.. Yes - that was at the Lake Mirror Concours in Lakeland, FL. Beautiful setting, wonderful event and really great people. If you are ever in Florida - this is a "must attend" event each year. Looks like I was cleaning the rear wheel... Here is one for you - Peter Brock with the Baja 510's in 1968 http://zhome.com/BRE/RamseyBrock68510.jpg

Vaccum or mechanical advance in the old distrubutor - maybe. Do not change two things at once. If you get a new distributor put it in first - see what happens. Then change the carb's if you like. I always keep a spare - "known good" distributor for things like this. It is usually one of the first things I try. FWIW, Carl B.

Parts Catalog for the L28E - shows 01121-00061 Bolt Hex 8 required Courtesy shows them in stock as mentioned above.

Hi Pat: The Datsun Dealership that I worked at in 73 put the competition hood vents on only 2 out of several hundred 73 240Z's. It is a very rare Dealer modification to say the least. Yours is the first one done by a Dealer - that I've seen in the past couple decades. Must be a very low mileage example - Yes/No? FWIW, Carl B.

Just my opinion - but $9,400.00 for this green Z in Harrisburg - was a super buy - a bargain - for a buyer in the East. That's like paying $7,900.00 for one on the West Coast and having it shipped back East... Seems to be a pretty complete and fairly straight Series I car to serve as the basis for a complete high quality restoration - pretty hard to find today East of the Mississippi. Good pictures and seems to be a knowledgeable description of the car as well. FWIW, Carl B

No - see picture below: It wasn't really so much a "competition" hood vent - as it was a last ditch effort to get certain 73 240Z's to run with the emissions carb's. - when all other fuel system modifications failed to work to the customers satisfaction. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - "check the tightness" - means use a torque wrench and set them to the higher end of the torque spec. Even though the nuts on the studs that go though the mustache bar are of the "self locking" type - I remove them and apply locktite to the threads - then torque them down. Another "clunk" cause can be bushings that are shot or bolts/nuts lose on the inside /outside of the lower control arms.In which case you will hear them sliding fore/aft. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dennis: See: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/nissan-350z-concept-cars3.htm and http://www.autoworld.com/news/Nissan/Z_Returns.htm FWIW, Carl B.