Carl Beck

I'll mention this because some Z's or ZX's have electric fuel pumps in their fuel tanks. In my 88 Chevy Pickup - ethanol fuel melted the rubber intake/output hoses on the in-tank mounted electric fuel pump. Over the years I'd changed out all the other rubber fuel lines with newer type fuel lines. Finally around 2010... my wonderful old beauty - which had ran without a problem for 22 years... gave up... yep - the fuel pump died {so I thought}. Not being able to avoid it any longer - I had to lift the bed up off the frame and pull the fuel pump out... a major PIA to say the least. Once out I could see that the small rubber hoses on the pump looked like they just melted.. black goo was all that was there. Amazingly - I cleaned everything up - put new hoses on the pump - check that it was running - and put it back in the tank. Fixed for a few cents worth of rubber fuel line!! Other than that - I've always updated my rubber fuel lines every decade or so - so the ethanol fuel hasn't been a problem. As I recall however - didn't Nissan have to recall all the Z31's to change out the fuel lines and injectors.. at no charge. Don't recall if that applied to the Z32's or not. FWIW, Carl B.

The possibility of finding any NOS accessary items in a Dealer's inventory are quite slim. I'd say less than one tenth of one percent. PN 99990-00062 That said - I'd suggest that you measure the length - center to center - on your bumper up-rights. Then specify that length along with the model year. Likewise if you find some for sale - make sure you see the tap measure showing their length before you send money. Can't tell you how many guys I know that have bought the wrong bar... one too short or too long... when the seller had no idea what they were selling. As I recall - the "mounting hardware" - is just a few carriage bolts. I would think that your best bet is E-Bay on something like this. good luck, Carl B.

Hi Fixitman: What was I thinking... I guess that just threw me a curve. You are absolutely correct. Everything is "A-OK". Love the air cleaner!! FWIW, Carl B.

So.. do you have water running all the time though your heater core?

I needed the chokes when I lived in Washington State - you'll be glad you have the chokes hooked up if you stay in Ohio. Here in Florida there was no need for them. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jay: To build a car to completion - the assembly plant has to have all the parts necessary. So with a Date Of Manufacture of 01/70 - you can expect most of the parts to have been produced prior to that. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jay: In case you haven't seen it - here is a good article about replacing the floorboards. http://zhome.com/Classic/240ZFloorboards/ChrisFloorboards.htm You may notice a couple things - first leave the front seat support bracket in place - that will hold the transmission tunnel in place. Second the rear seat supports are connected/reinforced on your 72 - they are not on your 70. So you will want to cut the rear seat supports out of your 70 while still connected to the floorboards - so you can use them as a template for positioning to reinstall. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jay: I think you will find that the 70 and 72 Cross-members are quite different. As I recall the 70 cross-member bolts up into the body - where the 72 has bolts that run parallel to the body - that is the 72 has brackets that stick down from the body and the cross-member slides up into them. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Phils204z: Go To: http://ZHome.com In the Left Hand Column - select - "Internet Z Car Club" Then select -- "Z Car Registers" In the Right Hand Frame -You Will See: "To Add your car to one of the Registers" under that heading select: In the Right Hand Frame - select: "The Original Owners' 240Z Register" Because your Father-In-Law was the original owner - you {and/or you and your wife} will be shown as the Second Generation original owners. If you have any questions just drop me an E-Mail: beck@becksystems.com FWIW, Carl B.

If Rebello or Sunbelt built your original L24 - to reasonable "street car" spec.'s {they could stroke it to L26 spec.'s and bore it to wind up between L26 and L28 spec} -- that engine would be far better in terms of torque and HP than any L28 put together by the average mechanic. Complete it might cost between $6K and $8K, but you would only have to do it once. Add an 83 5spd and 3.9 rear or even a 3.7 rear and you'd be in great shape - with a pure stock looking engine bay. Or you can have all that done for half as much money - and wind up with 65% of the power and a poorly running street engine. I've had lots of them... FWIW, Carl B.

BRE style front air spoiler with brake cooling air scoops - Spoiler + Scoop - - aka BRE Spook. See: http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B01&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts FWIW, Carl B.

I really wish I hadn't looked at that picture - - - I "refreshed" my webers, engine and engine compartment about 17 years ago..and they are over do for a rework now... I forgot how good they looked then... another summer project ... FWIW, Carl B.

I have a Jim Cook intake manifold - to mount the super-charger to the L24/28 - just in case you find a supercharger. $175.00 + shipping/boxing etc.

Oh yea .... that's what I need:tapemouth

This may help - http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks Mitchell / Mike W. I'll have to go look again at the stock pedal assembly - but I think I understand... FWIW, Carl B.

Could you show us more about how the throttle cable was installed... what it took, or how it was modified - to hook to the accelerator pedal etc. thanks, Carl B.

Ferdinand Alexander Porsche died Thursday in Salzburg, Austria at age 76 http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/46966251/ns/business-autos/t/ferdinand-porsche-sports-car-designer-dies/ The Automotive World has lost a very good man. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chase: The Devil is in the details - or in this case the value is in the details. How about providing more details or detailed pictures of your 72 as it stood when you bought it. Some 240Z's are worth $2500.00 and some seem to have been sold recently for $16,000.00 to $18,000.00. Here is a 72 with 131,000 miles - that sold for $10,100.00 E-Bay Item 190657808359 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/190657808359?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm570.l2736%26_nkw%3D190657808359%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1 The buyer has been looking for a good 240Z for two years now... Again - an original owner, well documented example.. in really good condtion. Someone on this forum - from Texas - recently stated that they couldn't find a rust free 240Z in Texas..How long ago did you buy your Z? FWIW, Carl B.

80900-E8801 Door RH White - - up to 6/72 80900-N3304 Door RH Beige --- 7/72 forward Call it dirty white if you like - almost everyone does - but Nissan called it Beige. 73 Model Introduction FWIW, Carl B.

I can't understand why some people insist that the mileage is not correct. 31K documented miles, then stored for 25 years - - sounds like that would be pretty easy to check - Look at the documentation and call the original owner. The engine compartment is way to clean and original looking to be a 131K mile car. I don't find this to be unusual at all. I bought new seat covers and door panels for my Blue/White 72 - a few months after I bought it new. I figured at some point I'd want to or need to replace a white interior. For that matter I have all new interior panels for my White/Red 72, on which I am the second owner. One Original Owner here in this forum - is finally having his Z restored - and many of the NOS parts were purchased by him 30 years ago. It wasn't a matter of need - so much a matter of forward planning. FWIW, Carl B.

If the car checked out to actually be rust free and had 31K miles... Cleaned up and put in fine running condition - - - it could easily be $14K to $16K today. Even as it sits with some issues related to how it starts and runs; and some cosmetic issues ...I'd be a buyer in a heart beat at $8K to $10K. If I looked it over and under - carefully and really really liked the car - I'd pay $12K.. I would always be willing to pay a few thousand dollars more - up front - for a solid, unmolested, stock/original car... Especially if I planned to refresh or restore it. To me - "The CAR" is more important than "the Deal". I've seen many guys pass on a near perfect car - just because it wasn't "the Deal" they wanted. Then they kept looking for a year or two or three more.. all to save a couple grand. That's fine if it is "the DEAL" that one is looking for. When I find the right car - I buy it. I don't have years to wait for a couple thousand dollars. {not in todays money}. Seat upholstery - left sitting in storage - and left to collect dust/dirt - the threads can and do rot. So even if the vinyl is good - they start to split at the seams. Kept clean and cared for this doesn't happen. I agree - looking at the rear - the tail light finisher has been refinished - and it looks like overspray on the muffler. The front bumper is missing rubber trim and the rear bumper has a dent in the center - no big deal - but you can spend a couple grand getting them made perfect again. What to take note of - while you are looking the car over. Make yourself a WRITTEN LIST to take with you - if you don't - you'll remember things later that you wish you had thought of while you were there. You get to talking to the seller.. and things drop though the crack - you get distracted - - -TAKE A WRITTEN LIST.. and check each thing off as you look with a critical eye. I won't list the usual things like Glass, Weather seals/gaskets, condition of the paint & trim, condition of the interior plastic panels, condition of the suspension bushings, condition of the suspension components {clean/black or covered with surface rust etc}, age of the tires, all associated original documentation like Window Sticker, Bill of Sale, Owners manual and Service Booklet {stuff that comes with low mileage one owner cars), original exhaust system in place, etc etc..... but some minor things that can cost a lot of money - specific to the 240Z's now... - look at the chrome trim on the tail lights - is it perfect or pitted? {NOS set $1200.00} - look at the rear wheel arches - are the original spot welds there - or covered over? - look at the dash - - any cracks {NOS Dash $1800.00} - look at the door panels - if they are in as new condition - could save you $650.00 or more - look carefully at all the weather stripping - with 31K miles it should all be just fine... - look all the wiring harnesses over - make sure they aren't hacked or repaired poorly - - everyone else can start adding their specific items to look at... good luck, Carl B.

I do not know about the UniLite with Vacuum Advance, which it sounds like you have from your description. I'll mention this just in case someone else here knows for sure. The Mallory Unilite without vacuum advance comes with a "timing key" - which allows the owner to set the initial advance timing in the distributor {shown as degrees of Crankshaft Advance} from 20 to 28 Degrees. Your problem may be there as well. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/MalloryDist.htm Set Up Instructions from Mallory are at the bottom of the page. FWIW Carl B.

Hi Fallguy: Just to be clear - do you mean that the color code tag says "638". If that is the case - then my guess would be that some previous owner replaced the original tag. I've never seen a 1977 280Z that was stock or original with the Black Metallic paint. I'd look up under the dash - under the sound/heat insulation - and see what color is there. To the best of my knowledge here in North America - 1978 was the first model year for Black. FWIW, Carl B.

I've seen that happen when someone put the one way vaccum check valve in-line - backward. I've seen that happen when 38+ year old vaccum hoses cracked lengthwise. Just make sure you have good vaccum supplied to the booster first. Does the car have a new looking Brake Master Cylinder by chance? Inproperly installed/adjusted - the push rod can stop short of applying full pressure as well. FWIW, Carl B.