Carl Beck
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Posts posted by Carl Beck
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Jay mentions his recent visit to Nissan Japan to view the new 240Z?
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/collections/pebble-beach/pebble-beach-2012-concept-lawn/index.shtml
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Edited by Carl Beck
Corrosion on the underside of the Stainless Trim Rings
Lack of having the original rubber seals with them
Lack of having the original mounting hardware
The Sellers comments - that they "look new", and the fact that he doesn't have the original box etc. If you get a set of Headlight covers out of the box, without the mounting hardware - and you bought them second hand from another person - none of that adds up to stating that they are "NEW". IF he wanted to discribe them as being in "like new" condition - I could see that. I just think that listing them as "NEW" then adding "see details" is misleading at best.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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Cool picture from this years Monterey Reunion at Laguna Seca....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradfordspeers/7813671916/in/photostream/
Bob
GREAT PICTURE - - Who was driving #47?
Carl B.
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There's something to be said for buying two of everything and packing one away to use or sell at a later date.
Dennis
One thing that can be said is - - you wind up with a spare bedroom full of parts!!
The second thing that can be said is - your wife tells you its time to clean that "stuff" out!!
The third thing that can be said is - it takes a long time to inventory everything, find the Part Numbers, Descriptions and Prices..
FWIW,
Carl B
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I haven't seen a VZ change hands in the past three years for less than $40K. I doubt you could find one for sale for less than $45K, unless it was not maintained as it should be. When Nissan moved its HQ - they did let a couple go, thrugh the Dealers at bargain prices but that was a long time ago.
If the economy recovers a bit more - in a couple years I'd expect the VZ's to be in the $65K range. More if the Collector Car market heats up a bit more.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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Over-all a nice article with lots of praise for the Datsun 240Z. Yes, a few mistakes / misstatements.. but we are getting used to that by now. Also agree that the Comments from the Forum Members there were very positive about the 240Z and nice to read, instead of the usual trash talk.
Sad that Nissan gave them their Vintage Z without first assuring that it was tuned properly.. That car has been ridden hard and put away wet too many times. It was one of the first Vintage Z's completed and has been used by Nissan as their Press Car since the introduction of the Vintage Z's. It has had no where near the care that most of the other Vintage Z's in private hands have had.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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The Firestone Wide Ovals were around before the Z - but still popular in 1970. We put lots of them on 240Z's with wider mag.'s. One magazine also installed them with a set of Minilites as they bolted on performance items. AIR that was Car & Driver.
In the late 50's and early 60's it was common to use white tire markers to "paint" the lettering on tires - especially the Firestone cross checkered flags on their 500's. Back then the 500's were biaisbelted and would last about 8K miles at most on a 50's/60's Corvette.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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I ran Goodyear Eagle GT's with raised white letters on my Z for decades. The last time I bought new tires - about five years ago - I looked high and low for any 14" tire with white letters - - could find NONE. Personally my Z with plain black walls - now looks dull to me - like something is missing.
Good luck with your search..
FWIW,
Carl B.
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That is your PCV valve and hose.
During both the Combustion and Exhaust strokes - vapors can blow by the piston rings - and wind up in your crankcase. As the rings wear, the amount of blow by will increase.
Because the crankcase is sealed to prevent the vapors from blowing into the atmosphere - the PCV hose and valve are in place to redirect them back into the intake manifold - and back into the cylinders to be burned. This happens only when the pressure in the crankcase is greater than the pressure in the intake.
On older engines {prior to about 1966} these vapors were simply vented to the atmosphere so they didn't build up. If they are not vented - they contaminate your engine oil and lead to sludge build up. Not to mention making your engine work harder on the intake stroke and reducing efficiency of the Power stroke.
As suggested replace both the Valve and Hose - and change the oil & filter. If that problem has existed for some time - which it sounds like it has - might be a good idea to drop the oil pan and clean it out as well. {but that is not a real easy job}.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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The idea is that with Front Engine and Front Wheel Drive - you have more weight over the drive wheels - and thus more traction to pull you through snow, or get you going on ice. Likewise Rear Engine with Rear Wheel Drive. I lived in Ice and Show for 30 years. For a Daily Driver in Ice and Snow - I'd take the Front Engine/Front Wheel Drive.
With the 240Z in Spokane - in the Winter - I ran Pirelli Ice Spikes on all four wheels. Still had to Chain-Up to get into the Mountain Passes.. Getting Moving wasn't a problem - steering and stopping were.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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As I recall 6 to 8 ft/lb. sounds about right. Most people don't have torque wrenches that work at loads that light. Just snug them down with a 1/4" drive socket set - then give them another 1/4 turn. Check them after you have ran the car a few times.. and snug them down again. Too tight and the gasket flattens out and leaks.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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The entire steering system has to be well within Factory Spec. - anything out of spec. will cause the "shakes". Bad shocks, worn steering components, bad ball joints, tension/compression rod bushings that are shot and of course wheels/tires out of round and/or out of balance. Once the "shakes" start it puts additional wear/stress on everything else in the system. So by the time someone addresses the original problem - there are usually additional items that need attention.
If your Z has the "shakes" - just rebuild everything at the same time and be done with it.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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Measuring heights at the center of the bumpers show the front about 1.5" high.
Hi DJ - exactly what is the measurement you are getting at the front bumper? Where did you find the stock height as measured at the front bumper?
If you get over here to the Clearwater area be sure to stop by and say hello!
thanks,
Carl B.
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Are we talking about the $336+Million Dollar Lotto that just ended? Of which the "Winner" gets to actually keep just over $110 Million?
You guys are wayyyyyyy to easy to please.... That or you are afraid to say what you would really do if you had that kind of money!!
Booze and Women would be at the top of my list... I'd drink and let Danica drive...
FWIW,
Carl B.
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Great looking Z - I'm sure you'll love it for a long time..
I have a 4.11 with a mild mod L28 and 83 5spd. That stroker can easily spin the wheels in 1, 2, 3rd gear with a 4.11. IMHO a 4.11 is way to much gear for that car - - - I'd go with the 3.9 or even a 3.7 with that engine and those wheels/tires.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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$175.00 for a Right Side Outside Rear View Glass Mirror???
Many of us have switched to "electronic ignition"... time to switch to electronic rear view as well.
With the availability of very small wide angle digital cameras and small high resolution digital displays - - - -we could easily mount side and rear view cameras that wouldn't even be noticed - with the display replacing the original inside rear view mirror.
A digital camera with a powerful ZOOM could look back the road behind for half a mile - and spot most of the "unmarked" patrol cars.
I'm just saying.....
FWIW,
Carl B.
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Edited by Carl Beck
Hi MB:
LA is a huge area... maybe if you can pin it down to a more specific or local area of LA - - someone will have an Upholstery Shop that they can recommend. I do recommend that you first get the seat upholstery kit that is closest to your original seats, and prehaps the new foam needed to rebuild them. Then take the materials to a professional for installation - if you have the materials in hand it makes it far easier for the shops to give you an estimate on the labor. Motorsports Auto in Orange county can most likely provide anything materials you need.
Motorsport Auto
1139 West Collins Ave.
Orange, CA 92867
E-Mail: info@motorsportauto.com
Web Site: http://www.zcarparts.com
The guys at Motorsports might be able to recommend a shop as well. If you are anywhere close to them - stop in and see them.
FWIW,
Carl B.
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Edited by Carl Beck
I'd have to know a lot more about your 240Z - as it stands now.
How many miles?
Pure Stock at present?
The first thing to upgrade are your driving skills. The truth is, most drivers can't push a pure stock 240Z anywhere near its limits. A really great driver will take a pure stock 240Z and turn better times than 90% of the people running in higher and/or modified classes. Successful track days are really all about the drivers ability.
Past making sure the car is "safe" and in good mechanical condition - the first upgrade most older 240Z's need - is a compression test and then a good fresh valve job. Second would be a good set of S.U.'s that are tuned properly and aren't sucking air past the throttle shafts.
After that - I agree - Electronic Ignition and proper distributor timing curves and ignition advance.
Next - better brake pads and fresh rear shoes - there are several newer technology pad compounds available - start with them.
Next - good shocks and better tires.
Next - 2.25" or 2.5" free flowing exhaust
Next you have to decide what "class" you want to run in. Personally I think it is better to start in a STOCK class - and learn to be competitive there with a basically stock 240Z. Once you are running at the front of the pack in that class - then start adding modifications and moving up to higher classes. {that will also give you time to see other Z's in the modified classes and talk to the owners to see what they thought was important or not}
A stock 240Z will give you lots of warning before it lets go and spins off the track. A certain amount of body lean, lots of tire squeal.. Once you start upgrading the cars road holding ability - you get less and less warning that the car is ready to leave the road... So I would work on gaining seat time first in a stock Z - then later moving up.
But why add expensive modifications at all - - Why reinvent the wheel? Arizona Z Car, Triple Carbs, Racing tires, Suspension upgrades etc etc... ???? - - -- - Keep your Stock Z for pleasant weekends and road trips.... Then go buy a used race car that has everything already done, including a lot of the safety equipment alread installed - it will cost about less than half as much as modifying your car ... If you start Track Days etc in the STOCK Class - you'll have a season or two to find the best deal on a used race car...
Better still - your "stock Z" will retain most of its value if you ever need to resell it - and if you buy a used race car at the right price - you won't lose your shirt on that either.
Just my opinion...
FWIW,
Carl B.
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Edited by Carl Beck
I had pressure in the clutch line prior to removing the trans on Sat. After replacing it, that pressure was gone.
"it" what is it? Did you mean to say that after you "reinstalled" the same transmission, the pressure was gone? Or are you saying that you replaced the clutch line? Big difference between reinstalling and replacing.. Did you do anything else when the trans was out?
BTW - DID you know that was a 5spd? Or is it a 5spd. You didn't say to begin with..
Carl B.
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Thanks Mike, I suppose that's good news.
So, I'd need a stock 240z Slave Cylinder,
Yes
and I'd be using a 240z throw-out bearingYes they are all the same
collar?NO - not if you changed the clutch Pressure Plate. The collar has to match the pressure plate. Almost all the replacement Pressure Plates are now the size/height of the 280Z and/or 280ZX pressure plates. So as mentioned already - you will most likely have to get the collar for a 280Z/280ZX.
Lay your NEW and OLD Pressure Plate flat on the floor. Measure from the floor to the top of the pressure plate fingers. The original 240Z Pressure Plates were thicker so the collars were shorter. The New Replacement Parts are thinner so the collars are longer. If you measure your older and newer Pressure Plates and they are the same height/thickness - only then would you use the same collar. {you never know what some previous owner put in there - so you can't assume its the original Pressure Plate}.
FWIW,
Carl B.
JDM s30 headlight covers,,,,,,,,,,700$
in Internet Finds
Hi E.
Humm... that's interesting. I have an NOS set - and the gasket comes from the factory attached to the "body side" of the plexiglass cover - then the trim ring goes on top of the plexiglass. The rubbber seal on mine would never come in contact with the stainless/chrome trim ring. Mine are 63900 & 63901-4621 If the rubber seal were in place, you would not see the lip of the trim ring though the plexiglass cover.
I suppose that if the rubber seal were peeled off the plexiglass cover - that could account for the discoloration I'm seeing. But why would anyone remove the seal from the cover on a NEW set of headlight covers?
There is no film protecting the adhesive - the rubber seal is already attached to the plexiglass from the factory, and side that meets the body is smooth rubber.
I don't believe that we are seeing the rubber seals. The rubber seals on my set at least - come from the factory with the hole pre-punched, the hole in the plexiglass pre-drilled - you can't see the hole in the plexiglass with the rubber seal in place.
I sent him the Question - 8/28 - no reply yet nor has the Question been Posted to his listing. I also believe that if he had the mounting hardware - he would know it takes more than 4 screws to mount them.
Yes - I could have been reading that into it. Reviewing his reply about the condition it states. "They don't appear to have ever been installed."
Just my opinon - but I think they have been installed, and they should be sold as "USED". The seller may be unaware of what is missing - unaware that the seals have been removed.. etc. All of that is the difference between a USED set for $800.00 and a NOS set for $1400.00.
FWIW,
Carl B.