Carl Beck

Hi Will: The ashtray pictured on Top is from #00587 12/69 The ashtray picted on the Bottom is from #00020 11/69 FWIW, Carl B.

I put a set of Dunlop SP SPORT A2's on my White 72 a couple years ago. This was a 195HR70x14. This was also the least expensive tire I've ever put on any Z. As I recall Tire Rack had them for $49.95 and Sears had them on sale for $46.95... so I went to Sears. I just wanted a "good" tire for pleasure trips - but I wanted it to handle well (if not great). I also really didn't care what it cost - so much as I wanted to keep my 14" Libre's. and a more or less stock look. I have to report that I was amazed at the quality of the Service at my local Sears Auto Center. They mounted/balanced 4 tires on my American Racing Equipment Libre's.. and no tire took more than an ounce to balance. I've driven 240-Z's since 1970 - and had the ARE Libre's on them since about 71. They have always been difficult to mount - and the 240-Z's are so sensitive to tire balance that I usually wind up having them re-balanced a few times before getting it right. Sears put them on the car - I drove out to the freeway and the balance was perfect first time. I've been very happy with the ride and handling of these tires. They do tend to want to go straight.. even when you might want to drift from one lane to another... so you have to steer them to the other lane.. (hard to explain in writing, but easy to feel when you are driving. They also might have a slight bit of noise at speed, that might bother someone - doesn't bother me. I do not know at this point how long they well last, nor what total mileage to expect from them - but for a car intended mostly for longer road trips and pure pleasure driving - I'd recommend them to anyone. Matter of fact I took my Blue 72 Z back to Sears a few months later and had a set put on it as well. Considering the price - and performance I'd think anyone would be happy with them. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan (everyone): It must be - in this case it is mine as well. This is interesting... I went back to some of the earler Competition Parts listings for our Datsun 2000 Roadster (1969 I think). As that is supposed to be the transmisson sold here, that could be converted for use in the Z. It lists 1st gear as..... 2.937 !! All I have here for the 2000 Roadster - is part numbers for "Gear Sets".. but no data for the individual tooth count of the gears/shafts... What does your Parts Catalog list as the tooth count on both the Gear and the Main Shaft? (maybe we should do the calculations ourself;-) Could be... when it comes to the recording, reporting, conversion or translation of data or information by Nissan Motors Ltd. (no matter what country they are operating in) - - I think we've all learned to trust but verify. No one is perfect, and the publications by Nissan in the late 60's and early 70's are certainly proof of that. As for my transcriptions - I'll simply have to quit doing them this late at night. FWIW Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Jim (everyone) Thanks - always fun to share whatever I can. This should give you a good idea of what the Borg Warner T-5 looks like. See <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/BorgWarner.htm TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/BorgWarner.htm</a> kind regards, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan (everyone) 1 out of 2 Yes - NMCRK-32011 is correct (my typo) No - 2nd gear is listed as 1.383 in the 73 & 74 Edition of the Datsun Competition Parts Catalogs. Very interesting... thanks. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Alan (everyone) Our Datsun Competition Catalogs list the following, but these are part numbers for gear assemblies (not entire transmissions). I'll try to line them up with your input. Middle Close Ratio: Part Number=99996-J3010 1st-2.678, 2nd-1.704, 3rd-1.262, 4th-1.00, 5th-0.852 Ultra-Close Ratio: Part Number = NMCRK-32011 1st-1.858, 2nd-1.388, 3rd-1.217, 4th-1.00, 5h-0.852 I can't find anything on this end that matches that gearing. Stock Ratio: Part Number= 99996-J3020 1st-2.957, 2nd-2.858, 3rd-1.311, 4th-1.00, 5th-0.852 Note: I believe that a Part Number starting with "99996-" in the Datsun Competition Parts Catalogs - mean it was some configuration of parts put together by the Datsun Competition Dept. and assigned a Part Number by them. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com Edited to correct typo's or wrong data...cjb

Hi Alan (everyone) Terms seem to be used quite inconsistently to be sure. I don't believe that we here in the USA ever had an option to purchase the non-synchronized "dog box" or "dogleg box". Although a few of them did make their way into the US over the years. If we followed Nissan's transmission coding scheme - a direct drive (1:1 ratio in 5th gear) that was a non-synchronized box - the dogleg box would be a F571B wouldn't it???? Maybe we should try lining up Part Numbers. I agree that there is lots of confusion - but as to Datsun Competition use of the term "Competition" applied to the transmission options - I do not believe what you have outlined was really the case. The Datsun Competition Dept. here in the US used the term "Competition 5sd." to differentiate the FS5C71B transmissions from the standard F4W71B and later the FS5W71B available in the 1977 and forward 280Z/ZX's in North America. The 4spd. F4W71B and the Overdrive 5spd. FS5W71B, that was optional in the 77+ 280Z/and standard in ZX came with wide ratio gears and utilized the Warner type synchronizers. The "Overdrive Competition 5spd." (FS5C71B) utilized the Servo type synchronizers and was offered in either Wide or Close ratios: Wide Ratio: #32010-N3200 1st - 3.321, 2nd-2.077, 3rd-1.308, 4th-1.00, 5th- 0.864 Close Ratio: #32010-N3030 1st-2.906, 2nd-1.902, 3rd-1.308, 4th-1.00, 5th- 0.864 Datsun Competition also offered a "Direct Drive 5spd" with 5th gear being a 1:1 ratio. The F5C71B These were referred to as the "Racing Transmissions" by Datsun Competition, and were offered with four different gear sets. Race Transmission #1: #32010-N3220 1st-2.818, 2nd-1.973, 3rd-1.470, 4th-1.192, 5th-1.00 Race Transmission #2: #32010-N3221 1st-2.348, 2nd-1/601, 3rd-1.296, 4th-1.138, 5th-1.00 Race Transmission #3: #32010-N3222 1st-2.192, 2nd-1.601, 3rd-1.470, 4th-1.138, 5th-1.00 Rally Transmission: #32010-N3201 1st-3.321, 2nd-2.270, 3rd-1.601, 4th-1.240, 5th-1.00 So here in the US - per Datsun Competition's use of the terms: Competition 5spd = overdrive with servo (steel) synchronizers) FS5C71B Racing 5spd = direct drive with servo (steel) synchronizers) F5C71B A side note just for fun: The "Warner" type synchronizers are brass, the servo (aka Porsche type) synchronizers are steel. The Warner type provide smoother shifting - the steel synchronizers wear longer, and they will take higher RPM. Porsche actually licensed their synchronizers from Warner the Patient Holder.. then modified the design to use steel. The extended shift linkage length, in the Porsches put additional and constant pressure on the synchronizers in their transmissions (kind of like riding around with your hand resting on our shift levers), causing the brass to wear prematurely, so a design change to steel was required. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Mark: Really great to hear that Ira is doing so well.... but.. Could you write that Post again - only this time include the words ahead of any abbreviations the first time the abbreviations are used. It's the only way i can learn what your talking about;-) thanks, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Russell (everyone) Actually there is power for the rear electric pump in the factory wiring harness. When you find the wire that goes from the dash area to the pump - you'll find another wire right beside it. Both have female spade ends, so you need to get/make a male/male spade connector to bridge them together... that will send power to the pump. The "problem" is there is no safety circuit in the early factory system - and most likely one reason it wasn't used in the US. No automatic shut off with loss of oil pressure, no automatic shut off in an accident... If you install a relay... you want to activate it only when you have oil pressure... or better put a timer on it so that it runs with no oil pressure for say 5 seconds at start-up, then shuts off any time after that - if no signal from the oil pressure sender is present. Electric fuel pumps are great - but you don't want them running when they shouldn't be. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan//Ron (everyone) Yes - it looks like both Classic Motorsport and Grass Roots Motorsports are both now owned by Motorsport Marketing Inc. - Headquartered in Ormond Beach, FL on Division Ave. On checking farther - in 2003 Grassroots Motorsports had announced a merger with Classic Autosport Magazine ( a British Publication)... by the Aug. 2003 Issue the name was changed to Classic Motorsport Magazine. (even if your subscription was originally to Classic Autosport Magazine) In Nov. of 2003 Tim anounced that the subscription renewal rates from Classic Autosport were high, so the British readers must have like the changes being made At any rate I must be confused at to what actually transpired between Grass Roots Motorsports and Classic Autosport.... I had the impression that Classic Autosports had bought-out Grass Roots Motorsports so they would have distribution and printing here in the US... but it looks like it might have been the other way around....??? By-the-way, I still have my first issue of AUTO-X magazine... Nothing stays the same... Carl B.

HI Ron (everyone) I don't know why - but I was thinking that Classic Motorsport Magazine was a British Publication, which had either merged with or bought-out Grass Roots Motorsports here in the US. Does the publication information in the front of the magazine show it being an American Publication now? FWIW, Carl B.

Like many things "collectible"... where there are few items available, but also few buyers seeking them... the actual "worth" is established by the current seller and serious buyer - at the point they reach agreement. If someone actually needed one - and needed it badly enough and soon.... and "if" the transmission was in perfect working order - not needing rebuild nor refreshing - then you might see $800.00 to $1,200.00 change hands. If the gears and synchro's are worn... the seals leaking...maybe $300.00 to $500.00 Because the ultra-close has such a very high 1st gear - there really isn't much demand for them, except among the roadster racers... who actually want the higher 2nd gear in them. That doesn't seem to effect the price of them so much as it does the time it takes to find a buyer. (I've known people that have held them for years before finding a buyer that needed one). The middle close gear set will sell quicker, as it can be used with a 3.9 to 4.11 rear gear on the street. Past someone actually needing one - for whatever reason - there are people who simply would like to have one. However because their demand is driven by desire, rather than actual need - they will usually stop short of spending much over $400.00 for a good transmission. Several months ago - I had a friend looking for an ultra-close ratio... he found one and paid $900.00 for it. It was in a running car at the time, so he could drive it and check it out. A gear box sitting on the ground is usually a pig-in-a-poke... and unless you are a recognized mechanic, or a known racer with some creditability related to determining the condition of the transmission ... it can be hard to convince any potential buyer that the transmission is any good at all. I guess the bottom line is - how fast do you want to move it out of your garage? Is it worth holding a couple more years if you could get $900.00 for it instead of a quick $400.00 now? All personal decisions you'll have to make.... good luck, Carl B.

Hi VaGuS510 How exactly - are you measuring or calculating your mpg figures? Describe the typical trip to/from work, school or whatever - what time of day, how many miles each way. How long do you have to keep the choke on before the car warms up? I drove my 72 Z back and forth to work each day, about four miles one way for several years. On the highway at a pretty constant 70 mph - it would get between 25 and 27 mpg. In town, used for work and a few side trips - 12.5 to 14 mpg. Choke on to start, then within the first two miles I'd be easing the choke off as the engine came up to full operational temp.s'. Stop and go traffic... If your driving 20 to 30 miles to work each day, using the freeways in the city... then your mileage would be expected to be much higher... Gas Mileage isn't just a function of engine tune... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: What O/S / Browser/ Software etc are you using? With O/S 10.3.9 and Firefox all I get is the errro message "The Playlist Format Is Not Recognized". thanks, Carl B.

Hi Vissan: Do you mean you found a used Weber, as in "one" 4 barrel? Or do you mean you found a used set of triple Webers, along with the linkage and manifold - for $1000.00. If they are in good condition - and presently running on an L series engine - then yes, $1,000.00 would seem to be in the ball park for them. They can range from $500.00 to $1,200.00 depending on the completeness and condition of the set-up. Good chrome air cleaners for them are about $75.00 each as I recall... so add or subtract if they are included or not. I have had lots of experience with triple Webers - I wouldn't recommend them today. I bought and installed mine back in the mid 70's... then spent twice as much as they cost new, on trying to get them properly tuned on my car. No, I wouldn't recommend them today... That said, many people simply like the "look" of them on the Z Engine, and/or the sound of them at WOT... Get a set of SU's off the 70-72 240-Z's, including the intake manifold, linkage and air cleaner. Then send the old SU's to "Z Therapy" as an exchange for a set of their Re-manufactured SU's. For about $750.00 you'll have a good running set up, that will supply all the air/fuel your L26 can call for. If you want more of a "project".. or something not so common... opt for a Fuel Injection set-up. There are several alternatives to look at - just do some research on HybridZ.com. Good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Brian: Can you tell me what the artists name, written below the left rear tire on the drawing of the #46 car is? It's just a bit too small to make out from the image. thanks, Carl B.

Hello Jim: Thanks so much!! I've been trying to find any linkage of that Griffon with DATSUN for quite some time. Years ago, the Datsun Dealers sold this Pocket Patch (see attached) over the Parts Counters - but no one could tell me how it was associated with "DAT", "Datson" or "Datsun"... it certainly isn't a little hare. As you can see the Pocket Patch isn't an Offical Datsun nor Nissan product, but was produced by an after-market supplier. I've also seen that Griffon on after-market gear shift knobs.

Hi nightowlZ: I have slightly different advice... take it for what it's worth. If you have the $600.00 spend it on the carb.'s. Learning to tune the S.U.'s can be fun and easy "IF".. you start with a set that is capable of being "tuned". Disassembly and cleaning, setting the floats etc. can be fun and easy - "IF" you start with a set that's in good condition to begin with. Attempting to install, then tune a set that is loaded with all kinds of other problems, for your first time - will be frustrating if not self defeating. Just looking at the pictures of the set you show - would give at least an indication that they are FAR from factory spec. in many regards, and they have already been molested by a less than proficient tuner. Believe me when I say that attempting to properly diagnose and correct three, four or five problems, all occurring at the same time - with a Set of SU's - when you are just learning about how they are supposed to operate, is NO FUN. Leaks around the throttle shafts, bent or malfunctioning hardware, bent fuel metering rods, maladjusted floats, etc etc etc - will all effect any "adjustments" you attempt to make, and the outcome of the recommended "adjustments" will not be as described etc etc. Anyone can "learn".... most people can learn more quickly if they work with someone that knows what they are doing and have experience doing it.... But if you are on your own, my best advice is to start learning how to adjust and tune - on a set of "known good" SU's. Once you have experience with a good base line, then you'll easily move on to dealing with more complex or compound problems. Spend the $600.00 on the rebuilt SU's - save money on labor that you can do without so many compounding "what if's"... In the mean time you'll have a car running right that you can enjoy, instead of fighting with. Springs/shocks etc can all come after... In either case, good luck. Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA

Hi Keith: As Kats seems to have left the area - The 5" wide steel wheels became standard equipment on the Series III (1972 Model Year, Production started 09/71 is reported by Nissan to have started at VIN HLS30 46000 - but a few earlier cars seem to have been built to the Series III spec.) Carl B.

Hi Chris: Why would a discussion of the development and growth of the Japanese Auto Industry get out of hand? Let's just not let it. It's a tremendous success story, from cottage industry to Industrial Giant in 30 years. To many books to count, have been written about the subject. Even more fascinating was the Strategic Planning and execution of Tactics involved in that evolution. IMHO - we should all be encouraged to know more about it. In the mid-50's the Japanese Auto Industry fully recognized that their domestic market was too small to support the mass production levels necessary to bring unit costs and thus consumer prices in Japan, down to affordable levels. In 1957 Mr. Kawamata, as President of Nissan Motors, outlined his Strategic Plan For Nissan's Growth by exporting cars to the USA. (as did most of the Japanese Auto Industry - it wasn't just Nissan). With mass production, unit prices could be brought down, and a domestic auto market could be grown. Nissan Motors moved with amazing speed from 1958 to 1970... to fully implement their export strategy in America. Indeed Nissan was establishing footholds in many other Countries around the world, but really nothing anywhere close to the export efforts to America. If you have an interest in even earlier history - pre WW-II - One new book that I would recommend to anyone with an interest - is now available for purchase, translated into English from the original Japanese - on the Internet... is: " William R. Gorham - An American Engineer in Japan" is a book originally written by the "William R. Gorham Memorial Committee in 1950 (his fellow Japanese Engineers), and recently translated into English by his Grandson Don Cyril Gorham. William R. Gorham went to Japan in 1918 and is credited by the Japanese Auto Industry with many significant contributions to their automotive success in general and Nissan Motors in particular. You can order a copy of the book on-line at: <a href=http://www.lulu.com/ TARGET=NEW> Lulu.com</a> The main focus of the original Post was wining market share via "Quality" products - wasn't it? Another American is regarded as a prime factor in Japan's Total Quality Initiatives to this day. I believe that Japan still awards the "Deming Prize" for Total Quality Management to their highest achievers. For that matter Nissan Motors Ltd. won a Deming Prize for Manufacturing in 59/60. Yes, it was Yutaka Katayama's following of the Deming Philosophy of Total Quality Management - that drove him to constantly lobby Nissan Japan, to design and build the specific cars his customers wanted in America... ie. Customer Driven Product Design. If you want to see what influence Mr. K had, in the growth and development of Nissan Motors Ltd... you can read: Akira Kawahara's "The Origin of Competitive Strength - Fifty Years of the Auto Industry in Japan and the US" (ISBN 4-431-70223-7), if your interested. There is also an entire chapter devoted to Mr. K's accomplishments and influence in David Halberstam's "THE RECKONING". ( ISBN 0-688-04838-2). Ford compared to Nissan... a real eye opener!. A fascinating subject for many of us... Some might see it as "Japan" vs. "America", but most of use see it as a successful partnership for both. Can you imagine what junk we might be driving today if the original Big Three had held their monopoly on auto sales in the US? (Vega, Pinto..yeiks!) FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - Japan has its sights set on greatly increasing exports to Western Europe now. Mr. G announced a goal to greatly increase market share for Nissan in Western Europe as part of his turn around plan for Nissan Motors Ltd. With the EU making it easier to comply with more standardized import laws, and the dropping of the restrictions on Japanese car imports to Western Europe in 2000; Nissan, Toyota and Honda finally see the opportunity to compete in that market. In 2002 the Japanese had captured only 11.5% of the European market. With old trade barriers finally removed - you can bet we'll see some serious competition for automotive sales in Europe by Nissan, Toyota and Honda... FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

That after-all is exactly what we American's wanted wasn't it !! At no time in human history has a such a vicious and bitterly hated enemy been so completely devastated by a conquering force - and then so well treated immediately after, than Japan. The Japanese once freed to compete, structured for success, and given a few good helping hands along the way; certainly are fine examples of the old saying; "do as I say - not as I do.". Yes, the Japanese are winning in the boardroom - God Bless them... and no one could be happier about it than America. I wonder what the value of the stocks and bonds issued by Japanese Corporations, and held in the hundreds of thousands of American Retirement Accounts, amounts too? The truth is that today there are no "American", no "Japanese" automobile companies. There are Automobile Companies, with headquarters in several different Countries - but ownership is held on a world wide basis, and automobiles are marketed on a world wide basis. Nissan Motors Ltd. is head-quartered in Japan, with controlling ownership by the French, producing automobiles for the American market in America.... All is as it was intended... we encouraged competition and we rewarded the best competitors. Along the way our one time worst enemy, is now one of our best friends. It's really a great story for human history. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Anyone know where or why Datsun used the Griffon on the keys shown prior to Oct. 67? I've never found any reference to it in any Datsun/Nissan documents nor history. Carl B.

Not having the original engine cost him about three to four grand. Carl B.

Hi Marty: I don't believe you can't make the Type A clutch fork work with the Type B 5spd. The two forks are different lengths and the absolute position of the pivot in the two transmissions are in different places in relative space. I may be remembering this incorrectly.. but there are several things going on when it comes to getting the right combination of parts related to these tranny swaps. The "original" Pressure Plate used in the 70-73 240-Z was actually the thickest. That is to say that the distance measured between the flywheel (with no clutch plate installed) to the top of the fingers on the Pressure Plate is the greatest of any of the Pressure Plates. Thus the Throw-out Bearing Collar from the Type A tranny, in the 70/71 240-Z's is the SHORTEST of them all. (see below URL). With the switch to the Type B 4 spd., came the switch to the self adjusting clutch, and in turn a shorter clutch fork (which changes the amount of movement at the Throw-out bearing...so the Type B 4speed used the longest Throw-out bearing collar. All this to say that it matters which Transmission Type you are starting the swap with - as well as what you are swapping in. The 280Z Pressure Plate, while providing higher clamping force, is actually thinner - and therefore the throw-out bearing collar is longer that the original 240-Z throw-out bearing collar in the Type A trannys. Shorter/Longer than what? There are at least four common different lengths of throw-out bearing collars that you can run into, plus a couple more that are uncommon but were used in some cars. Collar length isn't the only consideration - the placement of the "ears" on the collar matter as well as that is where the clutch fork meets the collar. The clutch forks from the Type A and Type B tranny are a different over-all length. So you can't just fill the hole in a Type A Fork - and use it with a self adjusting slave cylinder. To make matters worse - if you order a Pressure Plate for a 240-Z today - you will most likely get the 280Z Pressure Plate anyway, because they haven't supplied the original height Pressure Plates for the 240-Z's years.. Believe it or not, a 12/69 production car that I have, still has it's original clutch and pressure plate installed. If you are using after-market parts it gets even more complex because the height of the Pressure Plate Fingers can vary quite a bit among them. Most of them list the same part number for all L24/L28's... and a few still list different part numbers for the L24, L26 and L28 (but out of the box they might still all be the same). The general advice that say's use all the components from your 240, or all the components from the 280/280ZX is the safest thing to do - if you are swapping a type "B" 4 speed for a Type "B" 5 speed. If you have a Type "A" 4 speed at present, and you are installing a Type "B" 5 speed.. use all the components from the Type B 5 speed. KEEP ALL THE PARTS FROM EACH TRANNY AT DIFFERENT ENDS OF THE GARAGE - AND MARK THEM AS THEY COME OUT - magic marker of masking tape - BUT DON'T LOSE TRACK OF EXACTLY WHAT IS WHICH! Then if you must - change the clutch out - compare the new parts you get with the original parts that worked... Lay the Pressure Plates on a flat surface and carefully measure the distance from the surface to the Pressure Plate fingers... make sure the new and old are the same height. If they are not, you will have to exchange the new pressure plate... or find the correct throw-out bearing collar to match that new Pressure Plate. See: <a href=http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html TARGET=NEW>http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html</a> I repeat: EEP ALL THE PARTS FROM EACH TRANNY AT DIFFERENT ENDS OF THE GARAGE - AND MARK THEM AS THEY COME OUT - magic marker of masking tape - BUT DON'T LOSE TRACK OF EXACTLY WHAT IS WHICH! If you keep track of everything carefully - you have some hope of correcting any small problems that come up - but you have to have FACTS carefully recorded. good luck, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com