Carl Beck

THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU Kris!! How you found that I do not know. According to the salesman there it is actually their web site mostly for company use - they don't promote it in their advertising!! Anyway I have two on the way!! At $109.00 they are very reasonably priced as well... Glad I delayed putting the heater back together this week :-) FWIW, Carl B.

I believe that Mike had the door jamb and engine compartment data tags reproduced for 70-72 for the Vintage Z Program. I doubt he did any for the 280Z's. Looking at the Parts Catalog, I see engine compartment data tags listed for the 280Z - but no door jamb data tags. Nonetheless it wouldn't hurt to call Mike... you never know..

I have never tried to remove one - - but given it is shown as a replaceable part - it most likely would unscrew if you heated it up and put a pipe wrench on it. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't see anything in your first Post - that states you cut the filler tube in the first place? The only way to change the filler tube is to drop the tank down. I don't understand what you are asking... FWIW, Carl B.

No dilema - - if you are "restoring" it - put it back to the condition it was in when originally produced. Vacuum plate it. Also give us the guy's name in Madison. And go see if he wants to do your tail lights as well!! good luck, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Looking at my personal tracking list - where over the years I've recorded every Datsun 240's VIN and Engine number if possible {most of which are not on the public register because the owners didn't want them listed publicly} - I see lots of oddities in reported build dates during the 04 to 06 1972 period. I can't explain it - but VIN's ordered sequentially during the 3 month period - show up with production dates mixed between 04, 05 and 06 of 72. A few of them are 240Z's that were sold new in Columbia, South America. Based on both the Original Engine Serial Number - and VIN - I'd say that John's Z would most likely have had an 06/72 Date Of Mfg. Even if the publicaly registered cars would lead one to see it differently. I believe you can still get a replacement for the Door Jamb Data Tag from Banzai Motorworks http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php Part ID-05 Late 72 - - but you better ask Mike where "Early" ends and "Late" starts... You may have to FAX him a copy of your Title as well.

Agreed - compressing it enough to make the fender fit properly might be a problem. The original close cell foam was a little less than 1/2" thick - -- Hard to tell how firm or soft that rubber seal is from a picture.

How much was he asking?? Looks super clean for the year and mileage.

With the Nissan Comp. FIA 4 piston {Sumo Mk-65's as I recall} calipers and vented rotors - there are matching larger dia. rear wheel cylinders as well. That's the set up on the BRE Baja Z - and it uses a 1973 style prop valve and booster. Really great feeling brakes.

A disc/drum set up is just as good as a 4 wheel disc brake system. Except - - - when your brake upgrade includes ventilated rotors, 4 piston calipers up front and rear discs. when you are doing the "Tail of the Dragon" at challenging speeds - or other canon carving etc. In that case "better performance" equals far less brake fade effect. Plus a reduction in wheel bearing grease melting and running out. Except - - -when you are talking about brake feel/control - in that case I believe that you have better modulation control with the 4 piston calipers as well. In terms of being the "best" at stopping the car from higher speeds in a shorter distance once - the disc/drum set up is about equal to any brake system upgrade - - because shorter stopping distances are more a function of traction than the clamping force of the brake system. Upgrade to a 4 wheel disc ABS - and you have a better system in Panic situations than stock, for the average driver. What actually stops your car - is the friction that can be maintained between the tires and the road. Tread compound and pattern, in addition to the load effect braking performance the most. in terms of stopping distance. Bottom line - spend the money on better pads/shoes and better tires. FWIW, Carl B.

Replace the heater core??? Where do you find one? I looked everywhere I could think of about six months ago - no one had any at that point. Motorsports shows one - for like $300.00 - but did not have any to actually sell. FWIW, Carl B.

I have the BRE Rear Bar on one of my 72 240Z's - sounds like it mounts the same way as the ST Bar. Swapping in the R200 was not an issue. FWIW, Carl B.

Good discription E. Item #60,61,62, & 63 in the diagram previously Posted above. That would be Item #28 in the diagram previously Posted above. That would be Item #15 in the diagram previously Posted above. That would be Item #6 in the diagram previously Posted above. Not shown in the above diagram. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - and today you can buy a very detailed Die Cast of one of Bill's restored 240Z's. Correct right down to the VIN on the Dash... it is the Franklin Mint Model - in Orange. A car Bill saved from the crusher after a tree limb fell on it.. Nice as it was when Bill was done - the next owner spent another year or two plus many thousands of dollars making it even more correct and even nicer!. It is a really great 240Z story in and of itself. FWIW, Carl B.

So now all you need is a Cell Phone, Satellite Radio, GPS, iPod and an arm rest with a cup holder ... and you are good to go! - - Oh wait - emergency tool kit, some heater hose clamps, spare fan belt, and / or Hagerty Roadside Assistance Phone Number... Have a safe trip... Carl B.

The water control valve would be item #6 in the diagram above. AND YES - they will all be harder to get to with the Dealer Air installed. FWIW, Carl B.

I like the looks of that wheel ! - the thicker and cushioned grip will provide a better grip, while letting your hands relax a bit more on longer trips. The smaller dia will give you a little more room to change the position of at least your left leg on long driving segments as well. But if you don't like it - you don't like it. I do have the stock wheel in the 72 that I use for longer road trips... but after hours of driving my hands do start to get cramped, and the blood circulation is reduced... I've been thinking about sending a stock wheel out - having it cut down 1/2" in dia - then padded and leather wrapped. You are younger than me - - but for a 1000 mile rally - - - I'd have to install a seat with better leg, lumbar and back support. Which is what I did, when I installed the seats out of a late 90's Accura Integra. Huge difference in long distance driving comfort. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Tom: That lever is supposed to work - with or without A/C. If you look at the diagram below - there is a door or gate at #27 - that lever opens that gate to let fresh air in from the cowl for VENT or HEAT. The same lever closes that Gate at #27 for OFF. You most likely do not need to remove the heater control panel - there is a control cable that should be connected to that door/gate at #27 - - -the control lever is close to #28/#29 - - -get down there under the dash on the passenger side - and take a look. Nonetheless to answer your quesiton - you have to unplug the Fan Switch, the radio face plate has to be out as well. Answered above - - - and See the wires located just above and to the right of #37? Check to see if they are plugged together - and see if you have current there. There is also a fuse for the HIGH SPEED Fan that is in-line {not in the fuse panel}.. you'll want to check that as well. Good luck... Carl B.

Agreed - if the steering wheel is shaking in your hand at 65 - the problem is most likely up front. The front suspension on the 240Z - 280Z's are very sensitive. Almost anything out of spec. can cause a high speed vibration. As everyone suggests tire balance, wheel problems are perhaps the first thing to eliminate. Past that - worn shocks, ball joints, tie-rod ends, worn steering racks and more commonly tension/compression rod bushings that are shot. The problem with worn tension/compression rod bushings was identified very early on - and Bolt-On-Parts developed a T/C Rod Kit to solve it. They replaced the rubber bushings with an Aluminum socket and hard plastic ball arrangement. I've been running one on my 72 240Z since about 1976. I found the Kit only after I had replaced every other part, bought new tires and had them balanced several different times - but still had the front end shakes at high speeds. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ray: Amazing - - there is next to ZERO publicity about this event here in the U.S.. Either you are circulating in these circles or you are unaware it is happening. Perhaps the Event Organizers and participants want it that way. I've checked the Sports Channels, National News etc. and found NO Reporting from any of the cities visited etc. I hope someone - documents complete coverage in a video format - then sells the video's. Looks like it would be a really great way to spend May. Plus a really great event to participate in with a 240Z. Maybe Next Year... Carl B.

From my notes of an earlier discussion = Ken P. reported Feb 06: Eibach: Front 69-183 (prog) / Rear 86-212(prog) with a 1" drop. FWIW, Carl B.

Move the lower spring perch up or down the strut about 1 inche - and all 7" inches of "Installed Height" goes up or down with it. That is because the upper spring seat is not fixed... Perch height directly effects the ride height of the car because the upper spring seat is fixed to the body. Also - a stiffer spring will compress less in lenght with the same load as a softer spring.. so I wouldn't put too much faith in looking at the "installed lenght" given. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't think Wurth makes a paintable undercoating. Most of their products that I've seen are NON-Paintable For a restored 240Z - I'd want to use something like 3M paintable underbody coating or stone guard. Then apply the body color over that. The Z's were body color on the undercarriage from the factory - so I would want to put it back to that. Applying a black undercoat to the underbody - can make the car much harder to resell if the need ever arises. Too many people use black undercoatings to cover up rust or bad repairs - and seeing it on a Z can turn people off to buying.. It is not uncommon to see wheel wells "blacked out"... FWIW, Carl B.

I doubt that g35parts.com has Parts Counter Personel that actually have owned, restored and driven 240Z's. Courtesy is the only place I've found that does.. David House at Courtesy is excellent and very knowledgeable - not to mention a former 240Z owner. BTW - the Dealers depend on the Nissan Parts System for parts that are not in their inventory. So it isn't really a matter of a Dealer Data Base not being up to date. FWIW, Carl B.

In 1968 BRE prepared a Datsun Pickup for Mary McGee to run at the Baja. In addition to their own 510. Conner was also running a Datsun Pickup at the Baja in 1973 - SIMONIZ as a sponsor. Lots of Datsuns ran the Baja in the last 60's and early 70's. FWIW, Carl B.