Everything posted by Carl Beck
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Didn't see a thread on the Z from RM auctions. Anyone know what the sale price was?
Interesting... Now that the sale is published I see the VIN. I have that VIN being sold by a Dealer in Sioux Falls, SD in Feb. 2012 with 39,375 miles. Now sold again a year later with 35535 miles in Madison, GA. Encouraging that it brought $24K at auction. We may have discussed it here last year.. I recall a Dealer in SD that didn't want to "DEAL" on the price - when someone else was interested... FWIW, Carl B.
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Video: Adam Carolla and John Morton Test Drive the BRE1 Datsun 2000 Roadster
A friend of mine {Ruben Lopez}, said he had a friend that used to race Datsun Roadsters. Ken Baterson lives here in Clearwater, so I gave him a call one day. That was around the middle to end of 2001. As Ken and I were talking, he mentioned that he had a friend that lived in the Orlando, Florida area - that also used to race Datsun Roadster's - and he had one of the BRE Roadsters - which happen to be for sale. So of course I had to follow through on that... I called Ken's friend in Orlando {John Robertson}, and sure enough he said he had one of the BRE Roadsters, a second spare rolling roadster plus three of four engines, transmissions, wheels/tires etc. and a bunch of other stuff. It was ALL for sale - on a take it all or none basis. He estimated that everything would fit in an 18 wheeler.. I ask him about the history of the BRE roadster - and ask as many questions as I could - knowing very little about them myself. Then I wrote Les for more info. Les supplied what info he could. After a few phone calls back and fourth between the owner and I - I called John Morton. I ask John if there was any unique items on the #44 roadster that might help identify it or eliminate others etc. John replied that the #44 roadster was equipped with a Watts Link on the rear suspension, which wasn't carried over to the #46 roadster. Sure enough the owner had previously described the car as having a Panhard Rod or Watts Link on the rear axle. The owner would not sell just the roadster..even when offered the asking price for the entire lot.. He wanted it ALL GONE.. My garage and storage facility were already full. I called Ken back to see if he would take some of the spares.. NO. Les had his shop full at the time as well.. A few months passed and someone from South Florida bought the lot.. and as I understand it he and his father put the car back on the track for a few events. Then the hurricane went through South Florida in 2005 and they lost most of their racing parts, spares, cars etc. Sometime after that Les contacted the owners in South Florida and picked the roadster up... It has had an Amazing restoration at Les's hands. FWIW, Carl B.
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What transmission ?
It could be a Roaster Tranny, if it has already been set up to use in a Z. To put the Roadster 5spd. in a 240Z - you use the 240Z Bellhousing and change out the tail housing, main shaft an striking rod assy. Nissan Comp. used to sell a kit that contained all the necessary parts. It is most likey a Type A 4 spd. FWIW, Carl B.
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'71 240Z in LA
I find Mason's comments about the Styling of the 240Z interesting on several levels. First - at age 26 he represents a couple of generations that are younger than me. That shows clearly that the Styling of the 240Z is timeless - ie. A Classic Car. If car guys love them now 43 years later because they are beautiful, car guys will love them for the next 43 years as well. The discussions related to how much HP one wants, and/or how to attain it - are also interesting and really boil down to personal preferences. Along that line - I belive that there is another Thread where the only logical answer IMHO is given - buy two. One for speed and one to drive as a Modern Classic GT. FWIW, Carl B.
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'71 240Z in LA
And a Great Story it is - thanks for sharing it with us Mason. Carl B.
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'71 240Z in LA
Wow.. just jump right in and start spending money on improvements and upgrades!! No sense in putting it off, we all seem to wind up doing that anyway - As others have said - more pictures - and give us the full story about why a 240Z, when you started looking and why this one etc... oh yes and give us the VIN.. FWIW, Carl B.
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The sudden death of my closest friend Enrique Scanlon (EScanlon)
Hi Gary: Thanks for letting us know. That is very sad news indeed. So young too... I think everyone has pretty much said it - a great guy to have in any group. Courteous, thoughtful, intelligent and always willing to help others. Always told it like it was. I enjoyed our discussions, because that is what they always were. Discussion with communications flowing both ways and always respectful of differing views. RIP "E"... I hope Gary can convey our condolences and thoughts to E's family. Carl B.
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Jack, shims and extinguisher came with car?
That is exactly the item I was thinking of - when you described yours. I recall them being sold in the late 50's and early 60's. At least now you know you have a "collectible" - and not just junk. FWIW Carl B.
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1970 240z head
You can't shift a 4 speed into 5 gear.... FWIW, Carl B.
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Need Real Euro Taillights
Hi Devin - PM sent. Carl B.
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Jack, shims and extinguisher came with car?
The fire extinguisher might be a "collectible" from 74 or earlier - but wouldn't be worth as much once "buffed". Check EBay to see there are items of like size/conditon/age.. FWIW, Carl B.
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Another one HLS30 10179
Hi Bart: The antenna is not original, nor are the bumpers. Carl B.
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Another one HLS30 10179
As the Seller States: "I have done various things to bring it to a restored driver condition vehicle." I think that may be a very concise summary. Sounds like he took a very nice car and "refreshed" it without spending a ton of money. Now it's ready to drive and enjoy. We might look at this as a 240Z that has been preserved.. One that could be driven for the next 5 or 10 years, and if cared for could be the basis for a future full restoration. Bought for $12K or less it might be a bargain. At $12-14K it would might still be a reasonable car at a reasonable price. The paint and body work that is somewhat below "show" quality may hold the selling price below $15K. FWIW, Carl B.
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How to install chrome grill guard bar onto front bumper over riders?
As I recall - most were installed over the rubber for 70-72, but as others have said they could have been done either way. Then a Technical Service Bulletin directed that the bar be bolted directly to the guards with the rubber in place for 73. The 73 Guards were larger and spaced differently than the 70-72 guards. It seems important for 73 that the bar be installed parallel to the ground.. TS73-76 FWIW, Carl B.
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1970 240z head
Documented there but I believe incorrectly. 1970 & 71 240Z's used the E31 Head - That shows E31 on the 70 only. 1972 Used the E88 and 1973 Used E88 - but they have different combustion chamber shapes. The E31 is not uncommon - it was used on at least 42,000 240Z's in 70 and 71. The first E88's did come on a few 1971 240Z's at the end of the production run - but they still had the 42.4 cc combustion chambers. The E88's that came on the 72 240Z's had 44.7cc combustion chambers of the same design. The E88's that came on the 73 240Z's had redesigned combustion chambers with 47.8 cc volume. They were redesigned for emissions - and they actually had a high or raised quench area - good for emissions not good for performance. The E88 that came on the L26 had the same combustion chamber design as the 73, only it came with a larger Exhaust valve 35 mm vs 33 mm People Like the N42 - because the combustion chamber design is the same design as the E31 and 72 E88. It has the same silicon/bronze valve seats as the E31 & E88 {none ever had soft brass}. The N42 has a 44.6cc combustion chamber volume - where the E31/E88 had 42.4 cc's and 44.7 cc's. The N42 had larger Intake and Exhaust valves than the E31 or early E88's - N42 44/35 vs E31/E88 42/33 People also like the N42 because it is a direct bolt on replacement for the E31/E88's - and offers the larger valves. FWIW, Carl B.
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Chrome Surrounding Openings for Tail Lights on Rear Valence
Good idea - Also keep the trim matched with the same panel. They are ever so slightly different and go on much easier if put back on the panel they came off of. I start in the lower left corner - and put the corner in, then continue on around making sure the corners are fully seated as you go. If you are lucky, the two ends will match up at the bottom in the center. I use a small rubber mallet to seat them fully in the corners. FWIW, Carl B.
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fuel line and brake line insulator rubbers id help
Not a "complete" set until you include the single hole units -that hold the fuel vapor line on the Left Frame Rail and Brake Lines on both Frame Rails. You can see most of them here: 1973 240Z. Kelly W's Z Restoration FWIW, Carl B.
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Chrome Surrounding Openings for Tail Lights on Rear Valence
Yes - you can take them off. They are just "pinched" on. However getting them off and then back on without bending "kinks" into them takes a bit of trial and error. FWIW, Carl B.
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Check out this RUST!
Yeiks!! They look like Ohio Rust Holes!! Had them on my 57 Pontiac when I lived in Ashland, Ohio 1963. Then they showed up again on my beautiful 1955 Thunderbird, about five years after I brought it back to Columbus, Ohio from L.A. I wonder if all that white stuff in the pictures could be SALT!! Most likely way past the warranty period too. Any way you look at it - that is a bummer. On the other hand it might present a new opportunity for ZedFindings. Seriously - sorry to see that. Carl B.
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Stock 71 240Z. Electric fan conversion question.
Normally you follow the directions included in a Kit. However it is not unusual to see them mounted in the top Radiator Hose. Just past the thermostat housing. The thin wire attached to it, won't prevent the hose from sealing around the thermostat gooseneck. FWIW, Carl B.
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1970 240z head
The original head was cast with E-31 on it. FWIW, Carl B.
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Cowl Attachment Bolts
The Cowl Cover is attached with small philips head screws. FWIW, Carl B.
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Has anyone gotten a Survivor Collector Car Certification?
Who would one get such a "Certification" from? At car shows that have a Survivor Class - one might get a Blue Ribbon or 1st Place trophy. But Certification? On the subject of market prices - near perfect original's will bring as much or more than a near perfect restoration. When the condition is somewhat less than near perfect - then the values are far harder to pin down. Each less than near perfect car has to be judged by itself by both the buyer and seller.. What I see is that most serious Collectors - are very very nit-picky. They will pay top dollar for perfection - and any imperfection drives them crazy. When they get a slightly less than perfect "survivor" - its imperfections can't be tolerated for long. So they wind up correcting the imperfections.. and then they no longer have a "survivor". The buyers that will appreciate a less then perfect "survivor" and who will leave them as they are, imperfections and all - aren't the buyers that will spend insane money. Matter of fact they don't like to spend much more than average money. LIke almost any item that become collectible - Condition is everything. FWIW, Carl B.
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
Don't know if you intended to eliminate the sun roof or not - but here is a very good Thread related to replacing the roof to eliminate a sun roof. Sounds like you have a good doner http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/30409-successful-skin-graft-roof-skin.html FWIW, Carl B.
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Not Ebay, but HS3000695
Pretty rare model and looks like it has been very nicely done. Of total Z production 1970 through 73 maybe less than 6% were HS30's. Less than half the cost of properly restoring one. $35K seems like a reasonable asking price if the overall quality checks out. A few minor details like holes cut in the door panels for speakers, the plating on fuel/brake lines needs refreshing etc.. but over-all a 240Z anyone would be proud to own. FWIW, Carl B.