texasz

Wish I lived near you, I'd take to whole lot.

N5572B, see this thread where 2many has kindly provided us with a listing of what diff came in what vehicle. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1568&perpage=15&pagenumber=2

You're on the right path I think. If the starter will not crank the engine (all you get is silence or the clicking sound) then you have a problem with the electrical. Could be a bad starter, a cable may be grounding on the chasis somewhere, bad coil (I know it's new but I have had a few things that were new be DOA), etc. I would not consider the plugs or gas in the chambers since the engine is not even cranking. I'd keep working the angle you have been and maybe someone else here will have a better idea of what it is than me.

The dilema is that I could get a used R180 4.11 now for about $100 including shipping. Or I could wait and look for a 3.9 and the junkyard 720 4x4 is the route I was going to go. We all know what finding parts in a junkyard can be like :stupid: so I'm just trying to decide and needed some advice/info/help.

The dash showed up cracked and with puncture like dents in the dash mat that were not there in the pix the seller sent me and I have talked with him and he said that none of these were there when he boxed it up. It is really sounding like they will not pay, especially since it was not padded properly...even though the seller asked when sending it and they told him that it was fine and would not be damaged the way it was. mdbrandy, since you are sending it for restoration I would not worry too much about the shipping there (any damage will be repaired any how) and when they return it they say that they pack them well so there should be no problems on the return trip either.

mdbrandy, good about that but NOT good about the condition that the dash showed up in! :disappoin Currently trying to get a claim filed but it looks like I may be screwed...!@#$%@#$% USPS!

2many, I saw that one last week also but that was out of my price range. FWIW the guy got no bids on it so I'm sure that he still wants to sell it and he may be negotiable on the price now.

Ok, I've been through the calculator at http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ and I have also read up on the charts on http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/6117/datsuntransmittionratios.html Now what I'm trying to determine is what is the noticable difference between an R180 3.9 and an R180 4.11 in a 240Z with an F54 block, N42 head, and a '77 5-speed? Will I notice any difference between the two diffs? I will be autoxing the car and also an occasional weekend/weekday drive for fun. Please do not say that these ratios are not available in the R180, they are but they are just hard to find.

Thank you to all who replied, the dash I bought came with one (fortunately the seller was able to locate it before he shipped the dash to me).

dero, Are those a pair of Z dished mags that you've done in black? Those look sharp! How did you do that and what did you use? I am also curious aobut your air induction fab work. How does that work out for you? Any noticable gains? What did you use and how did you do this mod?

I'd probably keep looking. Here are a couple places that have been mentioned on this forum before, not exactly around the corner from you but at least in the same state. ---------------------------------------------------------- Jerry DiBenedetto All "z" car specialist Nissan Parts 5101 Mosson Rd Ft Worth, Tx 76119 (817)483-0383 ---------------------------------------------------------- Old Fashion Auto Sales We buy and sell Classic Cars Parts available Johathan Miziolek Agnes Miziolek 23277 FM 1314 Porter TX 77365 Office 281-354-7595 Mobile 281-413-1301 email oldfashoinauto@att.net ------------------------------------------------------------ You may also try salvage yards in San Antonio, Houston, and Austin since none of these are that far from you; it would be a long day but you can make the round trip drive in one day to any of these places. Dallas may require an overnight stay or a second driver to help out.

So far if I'm reading this correctly if you put an LD28 carnk in a stock L28 with no other changes then you have just created a 2.9 and if you bore out the cyls then you could have a 3.1 If all you do is put in the LD28 crank and make no other mods how will the car perform? Better, worse, or what? And how/what will it change? If that was all I planned on doing would there be other parts that would have to be changed also or just the crank? All the writeups I have seen talk about doing the 3.1 upgrade and I had no plans of doing this. I was just curious if the LD28 crank would benefit me without doing the other mods. BTW: I will be running an N42 head if this matters.

How many people are SERIOUSLY interested in a pair of these for your car? I have a lead on some and the guy has agreed to a group buy discount. Now keep in mind that they are over $500/pair + shipping. Please let me know if you have chash in hand and want some and I will take the point for working the deal with the seller. Limited time offer! Please do not wait several weeks or months to ask me about these.

I'm in the same boat, I will certainly miss this year's autox season all together and maybe part of next as well. See this thread for the kind of info and responses I got: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7922 Maybe we should have a big engine rebuild party here in Texas for all of us who have to do this and don't really know quite what we're doing yet. You know, get together in a big shop with a couple skilled people to assist us...some pizza and beer...some tunes...lots of cursing...

What fuel tank will fit my series I 240Z (it was made in 8/70)? How many different tanks are there for the 240 and what years are compatible (straight bolt on)?

Anyone? I'd really like to know what the benefits are...

I'm a bit ignorante about these things. What kind of air filter do you use with these?

I just went through this with BOTH my doors. Here's a tip: the outside door handles are interchangable! So it you switch which side the door handles are on then you will be set for a little while. That is until the next "arm" breaks, then you will have to seek out a new handle. :classic:

Have you modified this R200 to work with the R180 half shafts that are stock in the 240Z?

Ernie, Another good place to look is www.hybridz.org many of these guys yank the stock engines, wiring, ECU and all to do a V8 swap and they do not want to keep the old L6 so they sell them off. This is how I got my L28E that will eventually go into my 240Z. Got it cheap too, $150 for a running engine! Not turbo mind you but still a great find.

Can't say as though I can help much. But I am curious if there's something wrong with your engine? Or are you just looking to upgrade to something faster?

What I want to do is put a 1" sway bar up front and a 7/8" in the rear. This seems to be the way that they are paired up and re certainly more substantial than stock. Also when I do this I plan on putting urethane bushings on.

Like Doehring, I too would like a good explanation of what the benefit of an LD28 crank is. I have an "82 L28 with an F54 block that I'm going to rebuild with an N42 head and put in my 240Z and would like to know what difference the LD28 crank would make since I will already have it taken apart. I am planning on keeping everything else stock in the engine (i.e. no over boring).

Well until I got down to the money criteria I had an idea but unfortunately what I was going to suggest run more than that. However, should you find one...I LOVE my 4Runner!! It's a Toyota so it will run forever and they were originally designed with offroad driving in mind. Mine is a 2000 Sport model 4x4 with a 6cyl. but the new ones have a V8 option.

It was advertised as a Z sway bar, I can not remember what year now. That's ok though, the auction ended weeks ago.