texasz

Well I finally had a bit of time to play with my carbs yesterday. As some of you may know from a previous post, Running Like A Dog Today, I was having some problems with the way the car was running. Bottom like is that it was running very rich. The plugs had about 3 hours of running time on them and were carbon fouled like you wouldn't believe (black, black, black). I got new plugs and printed out the instructions from zhome.com on how to tune your SUs and took three of my repair manuals out to embark on trying to fix the problem. Now I know that I did not really fix much but was fairly pleased with my results considering that this was my first run at messing with carbs. The car used to backfire ALL the time. I got that resolved (mostly). I do not think that I have the mixture right nor do I think that I have the carbs balanced. However, I did find that the knarled nut with the ball on it under the carb was only turned 1/2 turn down from the carb!! From what I have read it should have been 1.5 to 2.5 turns down as a starting point to tune them. I turned it down more and the backfiring stopped! The only time it backfired after this was when I pressed on the gas then started it. It seems as though the plugs are stilling fouling up but I think that I'm getting closer. I too the car out for a drive and it really seemed to drive, accelerate, and idle better now that it was getting more gas. However, it is still running rich I think. I really need to find a color tune to help me with this. Anyone know where I can find one? Also, I bought the Syncrometer from MSA instead of the Syncrotester and am not sure that this was a wise move. All of the documentation references the Syncrotester and where the floating ball should be but there is nothing to tell me how to use the Syncrometer. Should I write off the Syncrometer and just buy the Syncrotester or can someone help me to figure out how to use the Syncrometer? As an additional request, if there is anyone in the Austin area willing to help me learn how to tune my carbs I would really appreciate it.

For those looking for one of these bad boys I just saw this on eBay. R180 4.11 Open Diff.

First off welcome to the group. There's a wealth of information here and everyone is very willing to share it with you if only you ask. 1. You can read up on zhome.com about the cars history, production info and stats. 2. Definately look for rust! Look at the floorpans, under the battery tray, the rockers, the rear deck above the taillights where the hatch closes, frame rails, etc. You could probably find someone local to do your carb work but there is also a place in CA that has a good reputation for these carbs; it's ZTheropy and they have a website, ztheropy.com. 3. Can't help on this one, I'm in TX. 4. A/C was available as a dealer option as I recall so adding it I do not think would hurt the value (someone else here may have better info on that). However, if you want to buy the system you can get it from MSA (MotorSport) www.zcarparts.com or from Courtesy Nissan in Dallas TX, they have a website too. Either place I think it will cost you about $600-650. For more sites check out the links section here.

Tourniqet, you may want to post up a few pix of what's left of the car so people know what they would be getting. Just a thought.

I may be interested in the front sway bar. What car is this for? How used is it? Any cracks or anything at all wrong with it? Can the endlinks from my stock sway bar be used or should I have something more heavy duty for this bar? How much would shipping to 78613 be?

What car is this for? How used is it? Any cracks or anything at all wrong with it? How much would shipping to 78613 be?

gav, Where did you find that model of the police Z? That's really cool. I wonder if they are available any where...

I'm completely new to the internal workings of an engine. How would I know if it has been milled down too far?

That's the kind of aswer I wanted to hear. And pretty much what I expected but had to make sure. I may have to build on this thread after I get the head.

I will soon be getting a head that was rebuilt a couple years ago and has never been used or installed on a block. Are there any special considerations that I should be aware of before trying to bolt it on and use it?

I installed an alarm in an early '80s Honda Accord hatchback around 1989 or so and it was a MAJOR PITA!! It took 8 hours over two days to do and this was a basic system, no power window or lock actuators, no starter kill; just door, hatch, and hood trigger switches and a vibration sensor. I'm not sure if I will ever do that again, every car since I have just paid the guys at Custom Sounds to do it...and it gets done the right way. Just my experience. Now granted this was when I was new to cars and audio (and the like) equipment. It would probably go quicker now that I know more.

By the way, I don't know if you have run the engine but it's not in perfect condition. There is a noise coming from the head and it was never fully dianosed, it may need a valve job. There were 1-2 threads on this back just before the accident. I searched for 30 minutes and could not find it though, it should be from late March or so.

I know this car, I test drove it 5 days before the accident as I was looking to buy it. After the accident I was offered this car and his parts car for free, he also placed an ad to give it away (should have taken it then but did not have anywhere for it at the time). I am going to pick up his parts car this weekend (still giving it to me). I do know that you gave some money for it even though he was willing to give it away but I also know that you have pulled the header, dual Webber DGVs, and maybe even some other parts that I don't know about. Now you are trying to sell it for more than you paid with less parts that are of interest. Free market and all but sorry, I will have to pass on this one. No disrespect intended but you got one heck of a deal, you will end up being paid $300 to take the car pull the parts you want and then get rid of it (paid $200, pulled good parts, sell for $500):bandit:. Good parts and cash in pocket...DAMN I should have taken it when I had the chance. Now if you decide to give it away let me know...

How much for the whole thing?

Here's a sway bar I found for sale and need to know if it will fit the REAR of my early 240Z (8/70 production date). Also if you can give an idea how much it should cost would be great.

Ernie, any luck with getting those breaks unstuck?

Charlie over at Zed Findings will sell the floorpans as a pair or seperately. Shipping was no different for me if I bought one or both so if you think that you may need both it will be cheaper in the long run to get them at the same time.

It was I who had started a thread here about how bad zcar.com was. And I feel for this guy on the other site. He really should come over here and get help instead of insulted. bambi...I don't think of you like that, you are one of the ones that always seems to have some helpfull advice. I know that you've helped me in the past. Thank you by the way! And thank you to everyone here who is so willing to help others out.

There's a guy selling lots of parts on hybridz.com and he has the JDM amber taillights for $400 (brand new!), and the fender mirrors for $200 (I think these are new also). Here's the link if you are interested: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23446 I wish I had the cash to get those taillights but there are other more pressing needs for my Z.

Just a note on having a glass company put in used glass... I had this done on a Blazer I owned years ago. I went and found a windshield in a junk yard for $75 and the install price was $50 totalling WAY less than a new windshield. HOWEVER, the glass company would not take any responsibility should the old used glass break upon re-installation. So basically, if they would have broken it I would have had to go get another one. Fortunately there were no problems but the lesson here is that while they do know what they are doing and typically do things the right way they probably will not ensure that the used glass will not break and will take no responsibility if it does.

Hmmmm....Mine does not have this and it was made 8/70 which is titled as a '71. Was this not a goodie that was on the US market cars?

Correct Jeff, there is no tranny and the started in in a box under the engine which is attached to the engine stand via the trans bolts.

biker, I forgot to mention that someone along the way has converted this car to elctronic ignition so there are no points. GTZZZ, is the video really that helpful? I guess maybe I should buy a copy of it.

Ok, so if you read the original post you know what the car is/is not doing. 1 - I pulled the plugs and they were ALL black as could be. Looked this up and the car is running rich. This was supportive of the fact that the car is backfiring like crazy. Damn, these plugs are less than two weeks old. I wiped them down and put them back in. 2 - I pulled the air cleaner and while the car was running sprayed each carb with carb & choke cleaner. Oddly enough when I sprayed the front carb the car would bog down as expected but when I sprayed the rear carb it would not bog down no matter how much I sprayed in there. I put my hand in front of the rear carb and it was pulling air. 3 - Using a scynrometer I tested both carbs and the meter shot up to 30 (the highest reading). This is one of those nifty meters that MSA sells to balance and tune your carbs. Now I do not know what a reading of 30 means nor how to adjust them to be where they should be. 4 - While the car was running I turned the adjusting screws on both carbs counterclockwise a couple turns and this did not seem to make any difference. I turned the adjusting screw on both carbs all the way clockwise then counterclockwise 1.5 turns. This seemed to make no difference either. ??? I'm lost!! Now what??? :disappoin

The engine is on a stand in my garage. How would you do the compressino test?