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Bullitt had a pretty good chase scene I didn't much care for the chase scene in the new 'Gone in 60 Seconds' movie since all the camerawork involved really tight shots that made telling what was going on a little difficult. It also loses points in my book for using CG in certain parts.

Great photos posted in this thread. I really love the 2000GT

Well, I guess i'll be taking the front cover off then Thanks for the pic dspillman, from the length of the threads that are left it seems pretty likely that a decent amount of the bolt will be sticking out from the block. I looked in with a borescope and did not see where the front cover ended.

Could someone post a picture of the OEM water pump mounting hardware? I remember seeing Chloe post it on midwestZ a while back. I need it for a reference to know how long it was and if these are even the correct bolts (darn that PO!)

Well, I just learned a very important lesson, and I guess it will prove to be a very costly one too. I was installing my new water pump, and decided that the original bolts looked ok. Wrong! I guess years of heating up and cooling down created some small cracks in one of them. Just now one of the bolts (one of the LONG ones, the one at the 10 o'clock position looking from the front) had its tip break off in the front cover under about 5 ft-lbs of torque. Just about the last 1/4" of it I would estimate. Anyone have any ideas as to how to get this out? It's not easily accessible since it is about 2-2.5" back in the hole where the threads start. I really want to avoid taking the front cover off to get at it if at all possible. TIA

Here's the story: Original 2 row radiator sprung a leak where the core attaches to the upper tank, so I bought a 3 row unit from MSA, as well as a new water pump(for good measure), 160 degree thermostat, and some new radiator hoses. The inside of the block and head have a lot of hard deposits in the water passages. I am thinking these are just deposits from using crappy water/coolant in the past since they look like calcium deposits that you sometimes find in old water pipes. Now to my question: How can I clear out some or most of these deposits? There isn't a radiator or water pump on the car right now, but the old water pump seemed to have blades in perfect condition(so maybe i'll use this for the flushing before swapping). If I put everything back together with the new(non-leaking) radiator, and get one of these chemicals you run in the system for an amount of time, would it likely cause a build up in the radiator? What kind of flushing agent would you guys recommend? The amount of buildup seems like it might be affecting the heat conduction into the coolant. Just flushing with water didnt really do anything to these deposits

That was custom made iirc, I don't think you will find the exact same design anyplace. MSA sells some various airdams and such : http://www.zcarparts.com You should probably order a catalog since their online store is far from complete.

Didn't see this thread until now Yeah, I live in the Duncanville area. I have an orange 1972 240z, it's out of commission at the moment because of some cooling problems (you know something is wrong when you suddenly start overheating when it is 40 degrees farenheit out!). Currently waiting on a bunch of parts from MSA. As for ZCOT, I haven't been out to one of their meetings yet, since they meet on the other side of Dallas from me, so it is a pretty good drive up there. I'm usually fairly busy with school except during the holidays.

I am not too fond of the new mustang, I feel like it cheapens the original some. I don't like the trend of making 'retro' style cars, seems to me that we will get sick of them even faster than a good original design, especially in this case since mustangs are so common. However I like the new C6 corvette, the body style appeals to me much more than the C5 did.

I think seerex is asking what type of spray coatings are available for the metal contacts so that they do not corrode and get hot in the first place. I have seen small spray cans of a plastic/rubberized coating (which is what you are talking about I assume) that are intended for spraying onto battery terminals(with cables attached, to seal it off). This might work for the back of the fuse box, where things don't need to move. I can't see it working for the business side of it though, since you would break the coating every time you needed to swap a fuse. I think I may have a can of it out in the garage, I will go look and see if I can find it later. To keep the front of the fuse box clean, there's probably something you could buy at an electronics store that wont break the connection yet sit on the surface of the fuse clips, but I don't really have much experience with this...

Feeding it dogs may seem inhumane to us Americans, but we are very different culturally from Indonesians. Many in India may think our mass consumption of beef is inhumane or barbaric, but to us it is business as usual.

Does anyone know the differences between the MSA kit and the one Courtesy sells? http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=240Z-AC The courtesy kit is about $85 cheaper

My parents owned several american cars in the past (oldsmobile, chrysler, plymoth, ford) but decided needing a transmission/engine overhaul at 100,000 miles wasn't acceptable! They now buy only Toyota and are original owners of a 1991 Land Cruiser and a 1997 T100 4x4. The Land Cruiser has over 260,000 miles, the T100 has around 160,000 and both are still not burning oil and are still going strong. That T100 is hands down the most reliable truck I have ever seen or heard of (knock on wood!)

I sure hope not, because I just ordered a set.:cross-eye

as for 1/4 mile, probably one of these Zs with a V8 and a bunch of other american driveline components swapped in and modified, but at that point I wouldn't really call it a 240Z anymore. I suppose the answer would depend on what you would consider to still be a 240Z.

racing on the street? more than 1/4 mile = 100+mph on public roads? I have to say that is very irresponsible, maybe you should get your friend to meet you up at a track... There have been plenty of local stories of innocent bystanders being killed because some street racers thought there was "no traffic at all."

Is it a mechanical fuel pump or electric? That might help someone that knows better than I give you some advice. I don't want to derail this thread, but while we're on the topic : my mechanical fuel pump makes a ticking noise also, but I cannot notice it when it is running. It ticks for a good bit after shutting it down after warming up on a good 30 minute drive. Should I be concerned about this or is this normal?

Thats what I suspected! I'll have to make a trip up to courtesy for some stuff soon anyway, guess ill get a bunch of rivets while i'm there. Thanks

After going over the car replacing things that need to be replaced I've come across a lot of the previous owners "creative" solutions (substituting random fasteners is the big one!). The interior tail light panel on my car is screwed down with some silver/chrome screws that don't seem like they belong there. This seems like a place for some plastic rivets, not a screw with a pretty long pitch and a point at the end (to my untrained eye at least). On top of that, the holes these screws attached to underneath the panel didnt look like they originally had threads at all. I looked over my FSM and the microfiche CD and couldn't find a diagram or description of how it was originally held down. Could someone tell me if this is the way it is supposed to be, and if not, what SHOULD be holding the panel in place?