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I remember reading in another thread that only something like 11 of the LY motors were ever produced, someone please correct me if i'm remembering wrong.

mtdripo, I had the same problem when I installed a pertronix unit in my 72 240z dist. There is a diagram floating around telling how to wire it up to work right with the original 4 wire inductive loop tachs (in almost all the 240s). I tried this, but still had a problem that sounds like what yours is doing. The tach would work fine up to 3000 RPM then it would snap back to zero and bounce around after that. Not sure how it worked at sustained higher RPMs because I chickened out and took it back to my house at low rpm when I was troubleshooting. I ended up buying a tach from a 280Z and swapping the internals into my 240Z, although I haven't gotten that to work yet (it sort of worked, went to around the right RPMs but it bounced around a lot, even with the correct resistor inline on the negative trip). I think the problem may be a bad ground on the molex plug going into the back of the tach wiring. Some other more urgent stuff came up, and I need to fix that before I can get the tach problems sorted out. One thing to note about my 240Z tach was I noticed a certain resistor(see attached pic) seemed to have some heat damage, I think I remember reading about some people replacing this resistor and having their problems gone away as a result. I would have tried this, except for the fact that I shattered the PCB in the back of my original tach popping it free from the epoxy stuff holding it into the housing This thread might be useful to you. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6814&highlight=zx+tach+diagram

Just went out and measured 8x1.25

I was browsing around on their site the other day and noticed their latest special issue is on the fairlady from the PS30 to the Z33. http://www.bestmotoring.jp/digest/BMS/index.html Has anyone seen this video in full yet? Alan? Kats? I've seen other best motoring videos before and they all seemed to be top notch. I think i'll be getting a friend of mine over there to buy me a copy and mail it to me.

Ah, thanks for that info Carl. Guess i'm gonna have to poke around and see if I can figure out why its plugged up, and maybe clear it out. I plan on flushing and backflushing the whole system extensively when I slap the head back on. As far as I can tell the bottom end is OK at the moment and should last me just fine until I get together the motor i'm aiming for this winter. The original head was run on unleaded I guess, so the original intake seats were beaten up into the head.

I looked through my manuals and I couldnt find any diagram that showed what each hole was used for in the engine block (as seen from the cylinder head mating surface). I was kinda worried about this one hole because it seemed to be completely filled in with some sort of powdery stuff. It almost looked like dirt, with some small rust particles sprinkled in it. My question is, what is this hole used for? Water passage? Oil passage? useless hole? see picture:

Yeah if you look at the sellers other signs, they are all similar construction with different logos placed in them. I was interested at first when I thought it was a real sign from a real dealership

Yeah you guys are right, I am taking it up to the machine shop tomorrow. I talked to them on the phone and they told me it shouldnt be a problem. While its up there I guess i'll have them doublecheck the rest of the head before I slap it on my motor

I'm in the process of swapping cylinder heads. In the farthest forward manifold stud hole on , there is a damaged helicoil insert starting several turns below the surface. It's older than all the other inserts I think. It is damaged to the point that I cannot get a screw in since it has numerous burs within the thread, I think from the threads seizing up around the old stud before someone forced it out. I tried chasing a tap through it but ended up breaking off the tip! barely got the fragments out (bad idea, I know. Didn't realize how hard those inserts are) 1) Do I really need this stud? If I use all the other studs, and just not this one will I have trouble getting a good seal with a 6-2 header? and/or 2) How can I get the old helicoil out, and would it be futile to try to put a new one in its place? Keep in mind the hole is already drilled out to 21/64 (i believe) for the 8x1.25 insert

I ordered a set of manifold studs from MSA along with a header and some other parts. They sent me 17 studs and 17 nuts, all identical. I'm not sure if this is the same as cars originally equipped with studs all around, but thats what they sent me. When I was pulling the original manifolds, the upper points holding the intake and fuel rail on were regular bolts instead of studs. Hope thats helpful I haven't gotten around to fitment yet, but I should be able to get started in a few days when I receive a tap I ordered

Cool, this is something I need to do. Your post put it in easier to visualize terms than posts i've seen before. Did you happen to take any pictures? What did you do about the holes where the hoses come through the floor? I thought i'd read someplace that the grommets were NLA

I agree, there are some members with much greater attention to detail(kats comes to mind) than i've seen on these "factory restored" cars. Not to take away from them however, the job was still very good.

I've always thought sonic was overrated, the burger always seems to be smashed inside the little foil envelope by the time it gets to me. I usually hit up whataburger when its time for that (its a southern thing).

hahaha, had same thought

Voted 'some college' since i'm still there Going into my 3rd year working on a bachelors in aerospace engineering, transferring to UT austin for fall so i'll be moving down there this summer.

280Z negative trip 3-wire tach

240Z inductive loop 4-wire tach

Tanny, I remember seeing a similar post myself. I think Victor Laury posted it? If i'm mistaken, sorry. I can't remember what thread it was in though. I don't know about there being a viscous coupling inside the tach. I had a 240Z and 280Z (4 and 3 wire respectively) tach apart a few weeks ago, didn't take as many reference pics as I guess I should have, but here are 2 pics. From what I could tell the movement of the needle was controlled by 2 springs that you can see wrapped around the center spindle

Thanks for the replies, I am in the process of pulling the head right now anyway. I figure I have this head sitting here with all the hard parts done already, I may as well have it finished up.

I was adjusting my valves today for the first time (cold initially so I can get it down, then warm later). Adjusting the exhaust valves was easy. The problem I ran into was with the intake valves. On most(all except maybe 2) of them, the adjustment nut was already so close to the lock nut that even when I turned it in the correct direction until it would turn no more, the clearance was still too small by 4-6 thousanths. This head is original and still has the bronze(?) valve seats as far as I know. I've been told they get 'beaten' into the head after many miles, especially without leaded fuel, could this be related to my problem? On a related note, I ran a dry compression test (cold motor)finally yesterday and it went something like this : Cylinder--pressure 1--180 2--175 3--170 4--155 5--145 6--125 doing a 'wet test' on the low cylinders did not increase the pressure at all. I'm told this shows a decreased likelyhood in low compression because of worn rings/bore and more likely due to head issues. I should also point out that the front cylinders allowed me to get closer to the intake valve spec on adjustment, with 1 being right on, down to 6 which at max adjustment was only about .002 clearance. I have a rebuilt e88 head sitting on my workbench(picture in my gallery, btw) that I will probably have a shop move the cam/cam towers/rockers over to from my current head. (or is this a bad idea?) Any advice you engine guys could give me would be helpful.

I am a 20 year old college student, got my Z when I was 18. The car is under Allstate with full coverage without any of the mileage limitations like on a lot of those specialized classic car insurers. The car is insured on a plan with some other cars in my family, so I guess it isn't as bad as if I was totally on my own. I have no tickets or accidents (knock on wood!) and when the car was first added to the plan I think it was somewhere around $600 per 6 months additional for that car. The other cars on the plan were all $800+ Fast forward to last month : they shifted around the amounts on our plan. The total rate for ALL the cars is still the same, but now the Z is listed at $1490 or something per 6 months, the other vehicles all dropped to cheaper as the Z was before. I'm still not sure whats going on there. It's not a huge deal to me really since the total is still the same, but it just seems odd that they would shift it around like that.

Hello Carl, I wasn't disagreeing, I agree totally on your point about the FSM having a prerequisite of mechanical aptitude. Lots of sections have a single step for "removal" and "inspection" that leave a little to be desired for someone who has never messed with that particular part before. I have several manuals and I usually have them all open on my workbench while i'm working on something, and still there are some things I just have to figure out. I think having all the answers given to me would take some of the fun out of it anyway. My Z is not my daily driver (yet) so it is more like a relaxing hobby for me.