Inf

That's awesome, just goes to show the benefits of a strong community of owners.

Hi inmocean, I was thinking about just getting everything at Discount tire too (that's where I get my tires anyway, because of the warranty and widespread locations to service it), but the picture on their website for Konig Rewinds looked like +40mm offset Rewinds, and I couldn't get a concrete response from them one way or the other with regards to offset. May have to give them another look. Another thing I saw was a $100 mail in rebate if you buy a set of wheels and a set of tires at the same time from them (although you need to make your purchase on their store credit card, which I doubt I'd get suckered into even for the rebate). Something to think about, anyway.

I'm also in the market for wheels. Been mulling over 15x7 Konig Rewinds and 205/60/15 tires to go on them. I'm running Tokico HP shocks and Tokico springs from the popular kit, and I'm hoping 60 profile tires will help a little with some of the rougher roads around town. Anyway, I've been all over a few threads about Rewinds and other 8 spoke wheels here and at HybridZ, and somewhere along the line I picked up this link: http://www.jlbmotorsports.com/rims/konig-list.html Rewinds are about 3/4 of the way down the page, and they seem to have the lowest price at $499 per set for the 15x7 0mm offset size...INCLUDING shipping. Less than MSA, who currently price it at $550, and I believe shipping is another 50 bucks or so from California to Texas. Although, the MSA kit specifies that it comes with wheel caps, valve stems, and lug nuts, whereas the JLB page makes no mention. Similarly, for the 16x7's: $550 shipped vs. $599 w/o shipping at MSA. This also brings to mind something else I've been curious about - exactly what kind of lug nuts do Rewinds need? Tapered/acorn, or the straight style with washers? Anyone here have experience with this seller?

Not sure how excited I can get over a Z being on the same list as an AMC Pacer

Beautiful engine bay

I would guess he is just referring to 240 lights since the 280z lights would require an entirely different set of molds and tooling and would ruin the profit margins and/or retail price. I hope these come to fruition, as all I'd seen previously were reproduction lenses by themselves. As I recall, some people mentioned the color was slightly off on those repros also... Can't say for sure if I'd be in for a set (there are a lot of other things for my Z that need to be mended/replaced first), but it'll definitely make me think hard about it when the time comes.

Glad this thread popped up, I am in need of some new door seals. Jetaway, that foam strip you used looks like the open cell stuff I've seen at Ace - are you concerned about it becoming a moisture trap?

Sorry to dig up a sleeping thread, but could someone who has the discount successfully applied check the price on these rewinds? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/WWC001H/25-1067 The price I see with and without being logged in is 549.99 I emailed the webmaster my info yesterday, and he promptly replied that he updated my info, and that the discount should show automatically. He also mentioned "not everything is on sale." The rewind price did not change, and I browsed the site side-by-side with a logged out browser for 5-10 minutes and could not find a single different price on any random items I looked up. I'm wondering if my discount was not properly applied...

Does anyone have any experience with the 3-point non-retractable belts sold by either Wesco or the other two sellers Arne mentioned? I've seen a lot of posts about people retrofitting retractable belts, but I've grown to love the fixed belts. I like that planted feeling I get, and I never need to mess with the adjustment much anyway. I also really dig being able to adjust the lap and shoulder belts separately. I got the driver's side belt from a series 1 in a junkyard in Ft. Worth 7 years ago when the driver's side lap retractor went south. Now the passenger side retractor is acting finicky, and I figured I may as well replace that one too.

I sincerely hope that the OP figures out sooner rather than later that there are other sites that are probably better for him to troll with this silly "hellaflush" garbage.

That is one hell of a bummer, man. You have my condolences. I hope things work out

Well, speaking from experience, I can say the Prius is at least put together much better than a Corolla (we have both of the current vintage in the family). The Prius has its place, and while it may not make complete sense financially right now, the things Toyota has learned mass producing them will translate into hybrids and electrics in the future which ARE financially worthwhile for both Toyota and the consumer. Thus, the fact that they get a lot of people to buy them right now, by whatever means, does not really bother me. I would much rather see more small cars like the Prius on the road, than the standard fare in Texas, which is a huge jacked up grocery-getter turbo-diesel pickup truck, which could probably crush my Z without the driver even really noticing.

I skimmed through the hybridz thread, and I searched for use of the word "why," but I am still puzzled: WHY would you do this? The only thing I can think of is foolishly trying to earn ricer street cred "OH LOOK IT'S RHD JDM LOLOL ^_^" No offense intended, I just cannot see the rationale. Driving a RHD car in the states is pretty inconvenient, and downright dangerous in some ways.

It seems the OP is trying to get this done without spending any money, and flatbeds are relatively costly. I would suggest just a tow dolly as mentioned before - 12 miles is not that far. Regardless, for general reference, I would advise against using chains to secure your car to a flatbed in the first place. There are really no "good" ways to attach a car like the Z to a flatbed by chains. When I am in need of a tow, I call AAA and tell them explicitly that I need a flatbed, and a driver with straps to attach the car by the wheels. These straps go over the tires, and, although they are generally required to also attach some chains, this is strictly as a backup and are not under the high tension required to hold the car uni-body down. The car is then free to move relative to the suspension. With chains, every time the truck goes over a bump or a dip, the entire car is being pulled by the chains in ways for which it was not designed, like an unfortunate person being tortured on a medieval rack. I am out of town visiting relatives, but if I were home I could go and take photos of the undercarriage of my Z where extensive damage was done by an ignorant truck driver when I had the Z shipped from California to Texas 7 years ago. He used chains and hooks to tie the car down, and the sheet metal surrounding his chosen attachment points was extensively damaged. I have not repaired the damage yet, as I have put it off until I do a full restoration in another 5 years or so.

I didn't experience much of a drop at all - maybe 0.25", tops. You really could not tell a difference just by looking, at any rate. My old springs may have already been sagging a bit, though. It seems to me like most of the stock 280Z's I've seen are always riding really high to my eye, so maybe there is a big decrease in ride height there?

Good point, I would suggest lowering the car back down onto some 2x4's or something which you can then drive off of. It would be easy to hose an airdam or spook on your jack if you weren't careful.

Completely normal. When you lower the car back down, the slack will be taken up. Unless you're going airborne, you don't need to worry about the springs leaping off the perches.

I don't have my CD handy (at work), but the entire CD is divided up into pdf files. The front end that you open in internet explorer basically just links to these PDFs. Try browsing around your CD and find the "master" pdf that links to all the other ones. You don't need IE at all to view the materials.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7941&highlight=bouncing+speedo I searched for "bouncing speedo" and there you have it... The search button is in the blue bar at the top, 3rd link from the right. I don't know how you can even navigate the site in a practical way without it

I would probably oil your speedometer cable. You can search for it, and there are threads about how to do it

Amazing price, congrats!

Dropping the smog pump is dropping a lot of weight too... Am I correct in understanding that the "smog pump" just diluted the exhaust gas with fresh air, to "cheat" the old emissions tests?

I think you may find some information in the search function - although some of it may be old and no longer valid. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16848&highlight=engine+rebuild+ATK http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13043&highlight=engine+rebuild+ATK http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8891&highlight=engine+rebuild+ATK http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1369&highlight=engine+rebuild+ATK Back when I was looking, there were two companies I looked at who would ship you a remanufactured (rebuilt?) engine, expecting your old engine back as a core. One was ATK, the other was Jasper. Both should come up under google search. I'm guessing there are also some others that deal/dealt in L-series motors, but I'm not aware. I ended up just having a local Z mechanic take care of it. I know he outsourced the actual rebuilding to some local machine shop, not sure which, nor would I really recommend them if I was, given that it's only been a few thousand miles and it could still go horribly wrong yet. Actually, come to think of it, I have a bit of an oil leak from the head gasket between the #3, #4 cylinders on the passenger side. Be careful, I'm sure there are tons of unscrupulous shops out there looking to make a quick buck.

There's also this one, not sure of the source, but I've seen the car a few times over the years on the web.

This is what passes for innovation? Give me a break.