Everything posted by EuroDat
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Transmission ID/quiz
The numbers you are quoting are the casting numbers and don't mean all that much. Borg warner used them for quality control etc. The transmission type number should be on a metal tag on one of the rear extension housing bolts. Its about 12mm wide by 50mm long from memory and thats going back a while. The number should read 1352-004 Code E or 1352-047 Code J, but there could be more models. Those two were used in thr 280ZX. We had a 1352-032 Code D, but that is a European version and I don't think it was available in the US. Borg warner started making what they called "World Class" T5's in the mid 1980's. "Basic 1" might refer to the standard version. It might be time to start a new thread on this, since its wondering a little off subject: 71B transmissions. Chas
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Fuel Pump Check Valve Alternatives
I think Ill try the G2. The G3 has been replaced by the G12-1 in 24 feb 2012, but it has a 6mm outlet where the G2 has 8mm. FRAM I need to do something because my inlet filter is shot and I dont want to damage the pump with gunk from the tank. If the internals are the same it should work the same.
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HellFire Status & release date annouced
I think 15 may went south with he first load of nappies. If its goes anything like my experience, Lenny will be buzy with everything but Hellfire for The moment anyway. My wife and I literally disapeared from the social radar for a couple of years with the exception of an occasional blip on friends birthdays and back home in time for the baby sitter. Our friends all went through the same, its appears to be normal. You realise how much time you had before kids. Just do what you want when you want, but the trade off is all worth it. Chas
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Fuel Pump Check Valve Alternatives
I tried to order one here at a local Fram dealer and he couldn't order it, only the G2 (5/16") version. I couldn't find it on Fram's European website either. Looks like its only available in the US and on ebay. I can order it there, but they want $32 for shipping and I have to pay 21%tax on all that:( Looks like I will be looking for an alternative or maybe two G2 it parrallel.
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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.
I got the two bad injectors flowing the same as the other four by reverse flushing, like Blue mentioned. It was a crude simple set-up, but it did the job: 70cm garden hose fitted to the injector tip with a hose clamp, fitting on the other end for the air compressor, 9volt battery & connector. Continuous 12volts is not good for the injector coil and they open and close good with 9volts. Filled the hose with a fuel and injector cleaner mix and blow it through with 1.5bar compressed air. Did that 3 or 4 times and they all cleaned up a lot. Its not perfect, but it got them all producing within 90% of each other back on the fuel rail. If you are thinking of buying new injectors, now would probably be the time to do it. That would eliminate them as a cause and like you said; after 18 years of sitting with old fuel I suspect they will be a like mine were. Chas
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STILL having issues!!!
Im having a problem with mine atm. It misses or more like hits a rev limiter when its under load. Starts and drives great, its only when you accelerate hard that it starts playing up. Its not the same problem your having, but its starting to be a pita. I had problems with water in the fuel an thought it might have been something to do with the efi. Now starting to check the ignition system. I checked the dizzy and noticed the dizzy shaft has a lot of sideways movement. About 2.5mm. It also has a compensating spring on the opersite side of the pick-up. Not sure what the purpose of this spring is. Not sure if that can cause problems on an electronic ignition system. It can cause problems with dwell on points dizzy's. There is nothing in the 1977 FSM about sideways tolerences. It will be interesting to see how you go with the 75 dizzy. Chas
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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.
You can remove the connector one by one with the engine running. You should notice the revs drop per cylinder when you disconect it. Another alternative is to lift the fuel rail with injectors. Do a run test with the spark plugs out and crank is on the starter for a short period and see what the injectors do. I did that two years back to find two faulty (nr. 3 and 4) injectors. Chas
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Anyone ever remove brake warning light switch?
I take it your 72 is after July 72 becuase you want to remove the proportioning valve from the firewall. In that case you could go to the pre July 72 system which has the proportioning valve at the rear. It is static type, like the Arizona type, which means it is not balanced with the front system. Removing the brake switch, although it would unclutter the engine bay, could have legal issues like FastWoman said. Chas
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Transmission ID/quiz
Follow this link for a basic write-up on how to fit the T5 in an early S30 240Z. Datsun ZCARS and Borg-Warner NWC T5s Chas
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Fuel Rail Question/cant get it started
You need it the at least fire on the starter fluid before moving on. If it doesn't do that than its not fuel related. Once you have it firing on starter fluid you can do a pressure test. Any pressure gauge will do as long as it can read up to 60psi and a fitting that is handy to connect into your fuel line. See post #124 in this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/50066-280z-full-restore-5-months-hopefully-2.html for an example. Chas
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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.
Yer, Not sure what a Canadian beer can weight is, but my alcohol free club soda with a hook for the string comes in at 15grams. Probably should of used a Heiniken beer canLOL When I adjusted the spring to 148grams plus can I couldn't fine tune with the Thermo pod resistor. Thats way I reduced the weight back to 135gr plus can. The temperature sensor was reading 2820ohms at 16degC. which is close to the FSM spec. PS: I clamped the AFM mounting bracket in the bench vice. Didn't like the chances, and my luck would be a 95% chance, of the AFM free falling to the floor. Chas
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Looking to Purchase a 77' 280z With a V8
If I had the chance to choose from those two, I would go for the 71 240Z. A V8 transplant can be done well, but if its done cheap it can be more trouble than its worth. Both cars don't show any detail of the rust areas. Thats worth further investigating. On the 240Z, changing the auto is not to big a job. You can always hunt around for all the parts and do a transplant in the winter months. You can do a search on this forum for threads on swapping an auto to give you an idea before your decide. This website a good for info on where and what to check when buying a Zed the Z Car Home Page BTW You have an uncanny knack of finding Zeds with wierd tailpipesLOL Chas
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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.
Did you adjust the spring to give it more tension? Mine was about 125grams + the weight of the can. There was evidence of tempering in mine. You could see an indent in the whell where the screw first was and the sealant used on the cover wasn't original. I believe a past owner was compensating for ECU drift or tried to gain performance by richening the mixture. You may need to do the "tempurature sensor resistor pod mod" to fine tune it. Its easy to do. I first used a 20k pod, but it was hard to fine tune. Mine is adjusted to about 1250ohm, but my AFM is probably not at the right tension. It now has a 5K pod. Im having some problems with mine since I had a water in the fuel a couple of weeks ago. The PO did a lot of work, but the quality is in some places now showing. After playing with the injectors, it started missing badly and I found this. Its still not right and now stutters under load or acceleration. Don't have time to check it now, but once easter has past Ill start investigating. Chas
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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.
The maximum "regulated" pressure is 36psig. My car runs at about 40psi which is a bit high. Normal is 36-38psi like TheCrazySwede just mentioned. See attachment for the results of my test. I didn't think of doing a flow test under normal operating pressure which would of made it complete.
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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.
I calibrated my AFM using the guide on the Alanticz website. It was easy to do, but my engine ran really lean afterwards. Its worth noting that my spring was adjusted to about 120gr. before I started. There was also signs that the lock screw was previously in another position on the wheel, so a PO was playing with it in the past. He may have released the tension to give him more "performance" or try to compensate for ECU drift? I will have to lookup the weights, but from memory halfway at 135gr worked best for me. The method I used was to remove the AFM cover drive it and adjust the spring small amouts and drive, adjust, drive, adjust. I got so handy at it that I didn't stop the engine to do the adjustments. After that I removed the AFM and checked the spring at 135gram mid position. Im not saying that 135gr is better, we are comparing systems that are approaching 40 years. I have no idea what the tension was on a new AFM. My Z also has other variables effecting this, one being the tempurature sensor resistor pod and another the typical ECU's drift towards lean running. My calibration could be compensating for that as well. I think I have a video of it somewhere. Ill try to upload it latter. Chas
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Affordable Chrome Plating for plastic and metal parts
Mike, Sorry to read that. I hope your recovery progresses well. Its situations like this when you realise your health is your most valuable assest. Take care Chas
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Coolant temp / fuse wiring problem
Looking at this photo, the only thing you are missing is the temperature sensor for the EFI. The brown senso (top right) is the thermotime. The bullet connector sensor under it is the temperature sensor for the dash gauge. The sensor with the single black wire is for the 280ZX and is not used on the 280Z. I think it is for the blower to fan the fuel injectors, but Im not firmiliar with the ZX. You can remove this sensor and fit the EFI temerature sensor. The vacuum switch can stay or remove it and plug the hole. If you follow the link below and scroll down, there is a diagram with all three sensors and the wiring. They connect into the harness under the fuel rail between injector one and two. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/runningrich/index.html Chas
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HellFire Status & release date annouced
Yer, I think that countdown clock to the release date just hit warp speedLOL. Priorities will require the understandable adjustment. Enjoy it Lenny, It goes so quick. Chas
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Faulty Air temperature sensor
Hi Len, It seems to be working fine now. The thermocouple had a similar resistance to the Fuel injection bible and response quick enough. I would have thought the sensor would open circuit, but mine shorted and had less than 200 ohm. Chas
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Possible coil malfunction
Back on the road again;)
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HellFire Status & release date annouced
Congratulations Lenny, Welcome to fatherhood.
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Parts ID
Thats a ground for the interior light. It activates when you open the door. Your photo is missing the metal pillar insert. The metal insert fits into the body and the plastic "plunger" piece pushes in through the back of the insert. The cable is then srewed into the plastic "plunger". Everytime the door closes, it will push the plunger in and disconnect the ground to the light. It doesn't look like its of a Z.
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My Datsun 240Z
Bart, Take the wheels to a tyre speacialist and ask them to remove the tyre and check the wheel for run-out on a tyre dalancer. You can rotate it by and check it against a dial indicator or screwdriver. Something to give you an idea if its bent or out of shape. If he doesn't see any run-out, remove all the weights and let him check the balance. If the balancer reads perfect, and I mean perfect because the balancer not so accurate on a light wheel. He will need to set it up for a 12" wheel to compensate a little for no tyre. I would then try a new set of tyres. You are looking for another set of 14" rims so if this doesn't work you can use the new tyres on them. I think its worth the gamble, if you can test the rim first. Goodluck Chas
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not going past 4100 rmps while driving
I had a failing coil that was doing similar too what you're experiencing, but it would start at lower revs. Actually anywhere above 2500 revs under load. It was the coil and I found it by taping my timing light onto the windscreen so I could see it from the drivers seat and took it for a test drive. The timing light was missing pulses exactly when the "rev limiter" cut in. Edit: The timing light I was using was not the type that clips over the lead. It actually goes in series (Non-inductive). Its my fathers really old kit he had. The kit had the timing light, a vacuum gauge, dwell meter and a push in compression tester. It came from K-mart which was the biggy of the department stores in the 70's. I don't think you will see anything with a normal light because he might still register voltage even if its not enough for a spark. Chas
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Hot-start issue with EFI - who has it, who doesn't
I knew the injectors in the car were not original 280Z, but I didn't know they were Bosch. The A46-00 is correct. I managed to take a photo of the only one with unreadable text. I don't know the history of the JECS injectors, only that I replaced them with the remanufactured "bosch" injectors. Maybe the bosch came originally out of a Alfa romeo GTV6, BMW E12 or something similar? They used the Bosch injectors and Im told they are a bolt-in replacement. Chas