EuroDat

It will be goed to hear it on video. Im having trouble imagining what it could be.

I had a collegue on the phone and did'nt see you reply. It could be a piece of grit in a bearing, but I would expect it to be gone by now. A bent shaft, not saying it can't happen, but generally you see something else like chunks of metal in the gears to create such a large sidewards force on the shaft. The gears should show signs of this, like chipped or gouged teeth. Can you feel it when its ticking?

I have not been on much lately and just saw Zed heads @ Zeds right, you can definitely put the counter gear on backwards. If you do that, it will move the gear about 2mm towards the back. They are matched gears, so fitting the counter gear backwards would mean its an unmatched set and could be whiny. The other thing that can cause problems in the front area is mounting the 3rd, 4th synchronizer hub backwards, but then you would have trouble with the selector fork pushing the synchonizer hub off centre. Can you can't remember checking which way it should be mounted? If not, chances are it could be in backwards. It should look like the drawing in your post#37. In the 1982 FSM page 13 you will see the top left drawing (SMT065) showing the direction the gear should face. I think I would remove the front case to make sure it's right.

This one is still available, but it's remanufactured. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Chevrolet-Chrysler-Dogde-GMC-Carburetor-Idle-Stop-Solenoid-213-267/253211998743?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D255959e58e8341b98742107874605ac1%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D291501541853&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850 I would probably go with the carb junky unit and make my own bracket.

Mark, Take care the next 40 days. chas

Btw, you can tell the "wide ratio" and "close ratio" FS5W71B transmission apart by several external differences. Speedo adaptor retaining bolt, the exhaust hanger support, commonly known as ears and reverse lock-out mechanism. The "close ratio" came in two versions. 1st to 4th are the same, but 5th is slightly different. If the boxes ars still original, you should have two of the later version of the "close ratio". The general consensus is they changed around 6/1980 give or take a couple of weeks. How to identify - F5W71B Wide and Close ratio transmission (1).pdf

@Captain Obvious did some very nice reseach into the steering rack bellows. He started a thread on rebuilding the steering rack, but I think photobucket sabotaged it a bit when they blocked viewing rights I went for Moog ball joints, Timkin bearings and NOK lip seal. As for the sway bar ends: i used PU with the bolts that came with the PU bushes. Going PU or original rubber depends on what you are building.

The second photo could be a horn relay. I can't tell the wire colour, but if it is Green - Green/red stripe - Green/black stripe, it could be a late 72/73 240Z. Without knowing the model, it's just guessing.

What did the 240Z have. All the info I find points to Nissan first using them on the 260Z in 74/09. The ones on MSA look better than the set I have. Looks like a genuine copy of the original. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20m01a/23-4090

I thought they were the same until you mentioned it. Maybe the 280Z version can take more vertical travel? I thought they were NLA, because Courtesy had them as Out of stock.

That sucks when it happens. The last tap I broke, split down the vertical length. It was a real pita to get out. I made such a botched job of it, I needed a helicoil to fix it. And yes "last", Im a veteren tap breaker. Tapping stainless is not easy You know that is bonus points, breaking a tap off "cleaning" threads. Btw: The fabrication/welding work on the suspension looks really good. Top job.

+1 on Daves comment. The aftermarket unit I have are very poor fitment, hard plastic. They are not specially made for the 280Z, but more a general size that will kind of fit a lot of makes and models. Simply economics in volume I guess. Not enough Datsun 280Z clients to warrent making a dedicated unit. There might be better aftermarket units out there. I can only comment on the ones I have.

I can't watch the videos atm because they chew up my data on a pre-paid sim while Im in Australia. My work phone has unlimited data, but Im too far away from that providers mask. Are you grounding the spark plug correctly when doing the test? When I read your post about checking voltage. You say 12V. Is that exactly the same as battery voltage? A small voltage drop can mean a lot if you have no current draw. Can you check the coil by attaching a wire to the negative post and and quickly tapping the wire to ground while the ignition is on. You will need to connect a spark plug to the HT lead coming from the coil to the dissy cap. If you don't get any kind of spark, you have a faulty coil or the power supply going to it.

Tamo, You have the Californian model right? The FED system has a cold start system to retard and advance the timing by changing pickups in the distributor. You can see then with the distributor cap off, or the three wires (green, brown & red), and the 7 wire TIU. The pickups are not 180 degrees apart, but I can not remember exactly how many degrees they are. No real way to test the module with a multi meter, except check it is getting voltage. Basically go through a process of elimination until it's the only thing left. If you look in the last section of the instruction there is some trouble shooting steps you can take. It's written for the HEI swap, but the original should work the same. TIU280Z1976_REV1.pdf Instruction - Fitting a 4-pin HEI module to 280Z 1977 RevD.pdf

Hi John, Does the tacho go to 0 when you disconect the battery? If it does, it's your current draw. How it's stuck on 3000rpm is strange. Never seen one stuck before. Does your clock still work? It will continually draw with a very small current. You can check it by pulling fuzes and see when it stops drawing current. Btw Welcome back. Sadly, I know why you had to take time off, but its good to see you back again. Ps. The tyre inflator looks great strapped in next to the space saver. Thanks again.

That is the same bush I installed in mine. It took all the up and down movement out of the propeller shaft/drive shaft. I had a couple for an Opal Omega transmission, right size for the yoke, but too big for the extension housing hole. The omega worked well. When you install it, leave it in the freezer overnight and warm the rear extension with a hot air gun until it's hot to touch. The bush will tap in easily.

That "Don't use" is about the soft metal bush in the end of the rear extension. It supports the propeller shaft yoke. The SKU 303066 fit, but some people report it spinning in the housing because its too tight on the yoke. Its a imperial size, not metric. Its going back 5 years when I wrote that, but it was something about it spinning and wearing the transmission housing beyond use. Here is a link to the correct one: Nissan-62. http://www.americanpowertrainwarehouse.com/fs5w71-transmission-extension-housing-bushing-fits-datsun-nissan-77-4-cyl-cars-trucks-nis-62/

Dave, I changed all three on mine. My transmission had that same wiggle you are describing. The old ones had a little more. They will always have a little play in them because the transmission uses C3 bearing clearances. C3 is a clearances spec, not a tolerance spec. What you should pay more attention to the surface of the shaft and the inner surface of the gears.They should smooth and a little bit be shinny. If they are a very dull grey colour or spotty dull grey, that is a sign of wear. It could cause huming and whinning when you use those gears. Here is my list of parts I used when I rebuilt my transmission in 2012. Some of the parts are no longer available through nissan, but you might be able to find aftermarket stuff out there. Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

I agree with Zed. Try to find all the problems before investing to much. It might not be worth fixing. If its ok. The woodruff keys should be ok, if they are not damaged. I would replace the roll pins and the springs behind the detent balls on the selectors. If the needle bearing quality is unknown I would replace it too. I have an excel list with the sizes and part numbers of the bearings, seals/o-rings and synchros. I have nether seen a kit with all the seals, so you will need to buy some extra items for a thorough rebuild.

Its good you could confirm which direction before you try to remove it. The left hand thread nut was used in the 280ZX Coupe NA with the close ratio 71B transmission. A lot of people fall into the trap of thinking the 2+2 has the same transmission, but it doesn't. The 2+2 has the wide ratio like the 280Z and right hand thread nut. Take your time and ask questions when in doubt. Goodluck with your rebuild.

If its a close ratio transmission, it will have the same left hand threaded nut (E9803) as the 71C transmission in the 300ZX etc. The wide ratio 5 speeds had the right hand thread

Good luck Jeff and other members in the area. Hope it passes over without too much damage. Irma really made a mess of Saint Martin (dutch colony). One of our friends daughter works on the island, and he lost contact for two days. He was a nervous wreck until she finally got a message through that she was alright.

I have stopped comparing prices with here. Geography, supply versus demand, 280Z less in demand than 240Z etc. In nl this 260Z asking €5900 http://www.hofman.nl/auto/14275/datsun-260z/ And a 280Z for €12900 http://www.hofman.nl/auto/14138/datsun-280z/

Good find. The injectors, afm and tranny are worth more than the 600. If its original, it will have the N42 head as well. Before july has the early gas tank, which are getting harder to find. Just ask wheee about his search for a good one.