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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. Ah come on man, give yourself some credit, they asked about the paint because you did a damn fine job on it.
  2. If were going to add a tire size calculator then this is the page, https://www.blocklayer.com/tire-size-calculator.aspx Also does transmission gearing and a bunch of other calculators that might be useful.
  3. I have 195/60/14 Falken Azenis on my 510, good looking tire and although I haven't pushed them yet they seem to be pretty sticky.
  4. A tire calculator is always fun to play with to try out different sizes, https://tire-calc.com/
  5. As long as you haven't run into thin heater duct sheet metal held on with wood screws you know your PO wasn't too bad. It looks like you'll need both outer rockers at least, you may be able to save the fenders with repop fender patches, https://tabcoparts.com/16721.html There are more expensive, more accurate patches but Tabco is not too bad.
  6. The water/oil gauges don't fail very often from what I know, I think you could p/u a used one fairly easily especially in your neck of the woods lots of parts Z cars in your area.
  7. If it is just moving on the outside then it will be much easier to solder up, just make sure you go through the usual measures for cleaning the tank and purging it of all vapours. I like using the vacuum clear on reverse so it is blowing fresh air in.
  8. Swivel is not good, do you have any leaks around where the feed line enters the tank? Both the feed and return lines are crimped on then lead soldered, I've repaired one with plumbers solder. The question is did that feed line start turning because the crimp and solder failed or did it rust through? You'll find out when you drop the tank and have a look inside.
  9. As it turned out Riley got back to me on the next business day but by then I had ordered from somewhere else so it seems he is very much still in business but just busy. I will certainly be ordering from him next time I need something. Below is Riley's response to me. Sorry Riley, I read some comments on the forums about how difficult it was to get a hold of you that I moved on and ordered from somewhere else. Next time for sure, your inventory is
  10. https://www.ebay.com/itm/324721775605?hash=item4b9aed13f5:g:PRUAAOSw1-Jg9zYr Perhaps he's so confident that he will get good money for it that he's thrown caution to the wind, if the word gets out about its potential he will get a good price. It could be an extraordinary car with some work.
  11. I've driven with both and didn't feel any difference but if you already have a bunch of TTT hardware installed you might as well keep going, at least all the components will have equal strength.
  12. Jeff, have a look at Baltic Birch Plywood, very interesting effects can be made with it. Unlike other plywoods it's a densely packed with no voids, high quality material.
  13. I contacted kruked at the Zilvia forum, sent him a pic of the circuit board and he confirmed the ECU is for a manual car so my next move is to replace the Coolant Temp Sender and see what that does. Apparently some of these engines hang on idle and some don't.
  14. Yes NICOclub download section has been a great help to me putting this engine system together. The ECU is very basic, you can read all 8 fault codes from a flashing led on the back of the unit.
  15. You're probably right, looks like a nice Z other than the doctored block numbers and 9-10 yrs ago almost no one would have cared.
  16. Whoa, looks like you have your work cut out for you, please post more pics once you have dug in.
  17. Well they might have been welded on but at the moment all you can see is where the seam has been mudded over, get your knife out and start digging out all the filer, I have a feeling you are going to find a lot of rust behind it. Anything is possible with POs
  18. Okay did some more tweaking today, worked the idle down to 800rpm, brought the advance up to 20, the idle is still hanging for a few seconds and when it does the advance goes up to 30-35 Vacuum gauge is reading 19-20 in. at 800 rpm. Everything is healthy so I guess I'll have to live with it for the time being. Thanks all.
  19. That is an aftermarket 90 degree silicone elbow that punched a hole in for the IACV
  20. I got her running well enough to take it for its first drive, fun little car, went for a blast up my back road. A few rattles and vibrations I have to hunt down and need a new filler hose so ordered that today. The car is filthy from sitting in the shop since the paint job but you can get the idea of what it will look like when she's all shiny again, very pleased with the height, just where I like it. Don't want to look like a boy racer.
  21. Good question, I'll check the vacuum tomorrow. The throttle return is handled by a spring mounted on the side of the TB. When I blip it I'm turning the throttle cable rocker by hand so I know the butterfly is closed, I have been looking for air leaks but haven't found any yet. Interesting, seems like it is a problem others are having. No idea if it came from an Auto car or not, I'll see if I can contact this kruked fella and send him a pic of my unit. Normal fuel pressure is 38psi and that is pretty much where it is right now, as the throttle opens up wide the pressure goes u
  22. He shouldn't be, he was offered the going rate. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/260z/?q=260z
  23. 1973 510 /Nissan KA24DE swap, 4cyl, 2.4L, fuel injected, MAF controlled, stock ECU, freshly rebuilt. Finally got the engine running consistently, idle is about 900rpm, it's suppose to be 750 but can't seem to get it lower without it starting to stumble. Advance at idle is 19 degrees right where it is suppose to be but when I blip the throttle the revs go up to 1200-1300 and hang there for 4 seconds or so before backing down to 900. The throttle cable isn't hanging up anywhere but the revs are. Does that sound like a recognizable symptom of something? Thanks
  24. Got my second jab today and plan on feeling horrible tomorrow.
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