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grannyknot

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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. Thanks all, I found a local Z owner that has a couple and will cost very little to send to me. MikeW., I always forget Rockauto and every time I go to their catalouge I'm blown away with the variety of cars they sell stuff for. Chas, I'll keep your recommendation on file, he seems to have a good supply in case my other deal doesn't work out. Thanks, Chris
  2. Took apart the original brake calipers to rebuild them but two of the four pistons are shot, rust breaking through the hard chrome. I haven't checked yet but kinda doubt Nissan will be still be selling these. Guess I could have new hard chrome re-plated onto them, or put an ad out for anyone that have changed out their front calipers for something else that maybe they could sell me their old pistons. Any other ideas? Thanks, Chris
  3. Strange I should come across those last posts, in addition to the /70 240z I also own a /87 M6, an /89 535i and a /90 K75s. I'll see if I can find some pics. Chris
  4. Good luck, could be a great project. Don't seem too eager but make it known that you are interested. Cities usually just want to liquidate these kinds of things, set a price of what you think it is worth (and that means all of the stuff that it will take to get it road worthy, rust repairs and such, then double it).
  5. MSA, I could start a whole thread on how cheesy most of their stuff is. Bare minimum is what they strive for.
  6. Just for anyone who is following this thread and looking for the same answers I am, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/ thanks to John C., LeonV, Jon M., Zed ....
  7. I saw this at our local Z car show this summer, thought you guys might enjoy it. Not something I would do but the teeth were quite realistic.
  8. I never would have noticed, the front springs two topmost coils are 1/2" apart and the rest 3/4" apart and the rear only the top coil is progressive. What are the most common springs that are used to replace these? Thanks, Chris
  9. But John, my front and back springs don't have the usual progressive shape, tapered. Mine are a straight column springs 4.25" wide top to bottom and 11" tall, 11 coils. Can there be a softer and stiffer section of such a spring?
  10. UPDATE, Finally got the front suspension off and this is what I have, Front shock, Tokico Illumina T0BZ3015 (BZ3038) Front spring, Tokico 5020F (140 lbs) Rear shock, Tokico Illumina TOBZ3016 (BZ3038) with a 1-7/8ths" spacer, Rear spring, 5020R (165) Talked to Tokico today and they confirmed that this is the set up they sell for 70-74 240z and gave me the weight rating for the springs. So, I have the proper kit for the car, the springs are a lot less than the P/O told me and seem to be all most exactly what the European spring set were. Also, of the four shocks there was only 1/2 of a bump stop on the passenger side front. (urethane bump stop cut in half) the other 3 shocks had nothing in the way of bump stops. So... obviously the bump stops were a major problem that will be fixed, bump travel probably isn't a lot because of the lowered ride height, and I guess I'm driving the car harder than I think I am : ) I'll start with installing the missing bump stops, if that solves the problem, great. If it doesn't then I guess I'm looking at stiffer springs to prevent me from hitting them in the first place, does that sound like a good plan? Thanks , Chris
  11. Considering I'm not going to get any work done on the car tomorrow, or for that matter the next week I got up early and got the shop heated up and most of the suspension parts warmed up enough to get a couple of coats of POR15 on them before the family pulls me away. Merry Christmas guys.
  12. Mike, I just restored mine last month, what was sealing those two pieces and most of the rest of the heater box was 1/8th to 1/4" foam with a sticky backing. The closest thing I could find from the hardware store was the peel and stick draft proofing for older doors and windows. In some places I just used RTV sealant as it will probably be another 40 years before the next guy gets in there to refresh. But that particular join your asking about could use 1/2" foam strip as the bellows behind it probably isn't very springy anymore and you'll need the thicker foam to keep a seal. Somewhere in the archives is a step by step heater box overhaul, can't find it at the moment but it is worth the hunt. Chris
  13. Have you dropped it in boiling water to see if it works, if it opens? If it is a bad unit and failed to open then...but it would take a lot more than 20lbs to push the lip up. Interesting problem.
  14. My set of triples are OER/SK's (Weber clones with a few refinements), just wondering how it is determined that a set is 40's, 45's or 50's. Is the measurement taken at the narrowest point near the butterfly valve or at the front where the air horn attaches? I ask because I would like to purchase a set of air horns and those cool SS mesh filters that snap over top. Carbs Unlimited (thanks Zedyone_kenobe) sell them as well as Peirce Manifolds but they all seem to come from one maker. They say they filter down to .009" - is that good? Is that enough or is it only for car shows? I love the look, but I don't want to sandblast the insides of the engine for looks, I want the engine to last a long time. Thanks, Chris
  15. I say T.O. cause no one knows where Tottenham is, I'm just down the road a piece. We should get together for some restoration chat.
  16. pacemkr check this site out, http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html He sells a very nice RT mount and other goodies.
  17. JLP, so what exactly do you need SSnake Oyl for? You seem to be a very capable. $750 is an awful lot of money for new webbing. Just saying.
  18. grannyknot

    Rust repair

    Nice work, that stitched up well.
  19. I have taken it apart and everything was very clean and in good shape. So I should be able to connect that magnetic pick up to a MSD 6a unit if I find that the HEI is causing the 4000 rpm stumbling? Here is that spread sheet, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread34192.html You have to go to post #19 to see the most current spreadsheet. So it seems I have a 1978 with static timing of 10*, centerfugal advance of 17*, vacuum adv of 18* and total adv of 45*
  20. It came installed on the L28 I purchased, the numbers on the side are, D6F5-02 7904 22100 N4700 I came with a GM HEI ignition control that the p/o said hit the dreaded 4000 rpm stumble. Is this a magnetic pick up? Thanks, Chris
  21. "I have a friend who helps me with the pink slip"..... Keep that to yourself! Very few of us want to see this car off the road, but there is always some, keep it close to your chest - like poker.
  22. Thanks guys, I measured it today and the thread is a 10 x 1.0mm in a 5/8" sq patch welded onto the steering rack pipe. I thought I would drill a 10x1.0mm bolt for a small grease zerk but maybe a 9mm will do the job with some JB Weld. So what do later steering racks do for lubrication on the passenger side? I'm thinking that maybe warm weather allowed grease from the drivers side to migrate to the P side without the need for separate lubrication or at least I've found that to be true of the rack & pinion steering rack on a Triumph TR6. Chris
  23. I'm just about to remove the steering rack for restoration and noticed this plastic/rubber bulb on the passenger side of the rack. It appears to be a lubrication reservior and looks stock except I can't find it mentioned anywhere. It's cracked and only hanging on by a bit of material at the back. So before I break it off, is there any chance I'm going to find a new one? Is it even needed? Should I just seal it up and then re-lubricate through that hole every year? Thanks, Chris I can't get the file upload manager to cooperate, Ill try and add the pic later
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