Jason240z

I believe they do, however not all of them.

top shot, other head is an e31.... close up of the e31

I'll grab one tomorrow. the way I measured the valves, i've got a 44mm valve that fits the way I measured, i'll double check though. the CC measurement stacks up if it is 0.020 off, however it might have had that off before. head width 107.18mm

looks like the last n42 pic here? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips//headporting/index.htm

to me it looks very similar, looks like its been unshrouded, possibly the skim also altering the look compared to standard.

Howdy. My 'other' head. Its been worked, large valve seats(I measure 38/44). casting mark has been ground off. there's a machining stamp, 0.020, CC's measure about 42 with one small valve in, so nearer 40-41. Maths make it about 3.6cc removed, so N42? Looks right from pics of a stock one? Any thoughts? I was going to perform the same to my e31, however that can wait till the future.

they were probably just keeping you in a comfort zone. Germans are very metric, have been since the late 1800's.

Just too add, you're eyeball is off by 0.2mm(ish).

Its the same in the UK, I'd guess lots of the world....

I like those builds, I think this is closer to what rebello call their 2.7 purist build

Exactly.

I've an e31 head that needs work, or a head thats been nicely ported with big valves etc. New valve guides/seats etc also. If I find the cash to stick with the e31(matching etc) that'll be properly worked over.

Apologies, to be clear, i've a 240 and a 280 crank, in the screen shot, you can see i've used the 280 crank. Every part listed gets used, except the 240 crank. They all work together, its took a while to get them. It is as modified in period. I don't want a big displacment 260ish bhp engine. I'm proud of my cars condition and the fact its 40odd years old still with the original block. ?

can you tell me what was conflicting? A few ways of doing it, if its the original block that comes with the car, its original. Especially at just 1mm overbore. It all fits and works together well, its not just a collection of random parts. A l28 blocked stroker is just a little too done now days.

Neither do I, however thats the only place, other than the acutal block you can remove material that'll effect chain tension.

Hi Not quite fairly 'typical' all forged, fully balanced, 11:1CR. that should be quite reliable and pretty period, I think you skimmed the thread and didn't read the first post where I was looking at ways to alter the specs given the pin height. Its a tiny dome on the pistons, -0.6cc, just enough to cover the valve cutouts. if I decked the block, its circa £60 or $77. Offset grinding is about $200, i wouldn't need to do both... if you read, it'd be one or the other. And its 2660.5CC ? (thats with +1mm on the crank), that'll be happy(as can be) revving to 7500-8000rpm It matters as I want the original block.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-l-type-twin-idler-gear-earl-s-blue-l6.html you can remove upto 4mm total....

I've got a kameari chain tensioner. Remember, people take 3.0mm off a p90 etc.

The more I look. 0.88 off the block height makes the most sense. Gives me perfect squish at a 1.2mm gasket. Also means I could in theory run the block with standard internals and a thicker gasket.

Thanks, it'll be a HKS 1.0 or a felpro at 1.0 ?

Hi All. So, i'm at the point where I'm putting serious consideration into my engine. I've got all the parts below already. JE forged pistons 35.0266 pin height, 0.6cc positive dome, valve cutouts 240+240 cranks ATI Damper Kameari oil pump/adjustable cam sprocket/chain tensioner-idler gear/ignition+Distributor Schneider 290F camshaft+valvesprings+Retainers to suit Fidenza alloy flywheel e31 head(needs valve seats etc) Worked head with big valves(need to work out what head as casing has been removed) oer 45mm carbs on an OER manifold New style Fujitsubo Other nice little bits to suit. Using the engine calculator and a l28 crank/l24 rods I get the below. <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/tgl314y"><a href="//imgur.com/tgl314y"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script> As you can see, the pistons with the rods give a better rod ratio. However pistons sit just below deck height. I'm going to get some forged maxspeed racing type rods. So, sticking with what i've got, I could stroke the l28 crank by 0.5mm? Can I get bearings to suit then? I've found 0.75 bearings in the UK so a 1mm offset will still be serviceable. The block will be decked to ensure its flat, it seems drastic but i could take 0.5mm off there instead of doing the crank? My goals are a nice fun feeling, cammy engine. 150bhp at the wheels would be nice. I'd like peak power at about 7200rpm in my little perfect imagination. My compression is a bit lower than I'd like to run with this combo, Squish is also too large. This is what i'm looking to correct to 11:1 Final drive is yet to be fully decided, I've a plated subaru r180 4.44 LSD that i'm going to use(I've seem 4.11 CWP though which appeals), box will be an A, B or C type 5 speed. 14" wheels, 195/65/14 tyres.

Hi yes tried without the seal.... checked the hubs too, measured bearings against the lip they sit on, then the height of the hub. Fully home...

Which calculator is that?

my car didn't, however I've bought some intrax suspension that came with the hubs. Both marked B, both b spacers, both the same length, both give the same issue. Yes, I tried pressing once I wasn't getting anywhere..... just to make sure everything was 100% home, nothing had moved.... I'm a little baffled.

BFH won't help, I've checked them in a press even. Fully home both sizes, then measured, built them up, measurements have stayed the same.