siteunseen

That's funny! I need to learn those little smiley face things.

"If it cost $0.50 cents to go around the world, I can't afford to get out of site".

That sure beats texting while driving.

Well as bad as I hate to say it, I've had to change my coming out party from not now to when I am over this horrible head cold I woke up with Saturday morning. I was going to try Jeff G's recommendation of the ratchet straps for adjustment. But after seeing a picture of the load leveler I think I've seen one of those in someone's garage (remembering where will be the hard part) that I could borrow. That says it's designed for 1 man engine pull and that's what I am shooting for. If I can't find one I still have the 2" wide yellow ratchet straps already to go. That thing looks like a tool I would love to have and could probably talk my Dad into going in halves with me to buy one. Man I wish we had a Harbor Freight in my city, closet one is Birmingham, couple hours round trip but I could use some windshield time. Thanks for posting that picture.

I've found -6 size aluminium fuel rail stock on e-bay for $10 a foot, 2 feet + shipping $35, and can get the 5/16" x 1/4" male barbs for about $2.50 then the 1/2" size for the 2 ends, couldn't be more than $4 each. Can borrow taps and bits from Pop. $70 dollars or round about and Pallnet guy on Hybridz wants $155 for a great looking fuel rail I think I could make without the fancy lines machined into it. Anybody ever done it? Is it harder than I think? I know I'd have to use that clear sealer instead of teflon tape.

You are more than welcome grantf. That hook threw me at first I thought it hooked under the deck to hold it down but when I realized there was no way to do that and get my hand back out the light bulb in my head started to flicker. You gotta' love these cars.

I sold a '81 911sc Targa back in june and a month or so ago found out it's in Portland, OR through auto auctions. I have no idea how far that is from you BUT look out for a Havana Brown targa top. It would be a great fixer, that's what I always wanted to do but couldn't afford the parts. I sold it for $3200. One rust spot and the battery box was rusty but that's it. But the targa took away from the over all rigidness of the car, didn't handle as well as a hardtop. 13 qts. for an oil change. I wouldn't buy one with a water pump. Clarify that- no front engines. Here's a picture

I hope this helps somehow. If I could take more pictures let me know and I would be happy to do it. This is titled as '77 but the production date is 9/'76.

Nice car. I hope my '77 looks that good someday.

My early '77 is sloped too. My '76 and '78 from earlier years where flat so I thought it was hung on something when I bought it. I'm in the process of taking out my motor so my hatch is full of boxes with parts. It's still dark this a.m but when I'm home later, around lunch, I'll take pictures with up and down. One thing I found was a plastic hook on the end of elastic rope to hook around the driver's side hatch strut to hold the deck up for removing the spare and tools. It has those 2 knobs above the carpet to hold it down. Give me a few hours and I'll have you plenty of pictures. Finally I get to help!

Ok great I've got a plan now. I'll be sure and have a tire to lower the unit on as I am planning on replacing the clutch and pressure plate. What I was thinking but unable to type was to keep the rear of my car up on the jack stands and put the front tires on to lower the front and make room for the front legs of the hoist to get under the car without hitting those jacks. It's coming out this weekend (sounds like a gay motor, although there's nothing wrong with that!) no matter what. I'm feeling pretty confident now. Thanks everybody. Cliff

Wow! Ask and you shall re"Z"eve. My car is on stands now and I was going to use my motorcycle jack for transmission jack to remove the trans seperate. Then put the tires back on and off the jack stands so I could roll it while pulling the motor with a extendable arm motor hoist but if it's easier to do as a unit then when I get it out can I just lower it to the floor and remove the trans then put the block on a engine stand? So I should raise the rear and lower the front for a better angle. Thanks for all the input.

The FSM says leave the transmission attached but I'm trying to do as much as I can by myself so I was thinking about removing the tranny first then the motor. Any advice will be appreciated.

I've read that square port headers will cover round or diamond head ports without leaking. that triangle 3 bolt plate up front by the timing chain is on my n42 but cast over on my original n47, your picture #6 shows it. it was for a mechanical fuel pump.

Yeah I had trouble with that xeons30 too. Here's the one I use http://www.jdmgallery.com/information/s30-manuals/s30/ I bought mine in Madison back in July. It was on huntsville's craiglist. There's a bunch of nice folks on this site, very helpful.

I sure am glad to hear positive thinking. I think it should work also because of all the people that weren't happy with the 60mm's and switched back to OE throttle body. It came from Aurora, Illinois which doesn't tell you much but I have sent an e-mail asking about it, haven't heard back though. It's like it could be off a '75 or '76 California car. More questions than answers. Maybe someone will chime in and tell us.

I bought this from a guy on one of the Z sites classified section. It looks like it may have had a 60mm throttle body by looking at the grinding on the opening. I don't want a bigger throttle body (lots of people say it's wasted money on a stock motor) so could I still use it with my OE TB? This intake has the egr mounting section but does not have any 10mm plugs or the small holes in the runners. I taped everthing off and sucked on the brake booster hole and it's airtight so I really don't need the plate covering the egr mount, I think I'll put one on just for looks better reason. Any ideas of what it is? Early N47? I like it and would like to know what it came off of. The fellow that sold it had never used it, just acquired for extra parts. It was $25.

Standard Motor Products FJ3 This is a brand new set of 6 Datsun 280Z Fuel Injectors. This seller has almost perfect feedback too.

Thank you Zed Head for info I overlooked. Didn't know square headers will work as well on diamond or round exhaust. I'm sending my round headers back to MSA for squares and buying the N42 head locally. Maybe it would work long enough to rebuild original N47. I cut yards in the grass season so " easy come easy go" is my way to finance this project for another month or so theen it's March 2012.

I've already carried it back but looking at those pictures it does look suspect to use. He said it was a new stock cam though and he seems to be very honest. I need to see the bill he has for parts and labor. The $250 price is for the parts and I'm sure some labor for the valve grinding.

Well I'm going to be vice-versa. I bought a round exhaust port header for my '77 and would have to send it back, $30, to MSA, then they will charge me another $30 to ship '75 & '76 square exhaust port header to my house. Unless they can polish a cam or something, up close in real eye time, the cam looks to be new. It has white grease all over the lobes and he did say I would need to pour oil over the cam because it has been sitting so long. So if I send my round header back and get square then I could use either N42, square, or my original N47, round? $300 for a better flow exhaust head that's ready to bolt on. I won't sleep very well tonight.

I went back and he let me bring it home to compare to my N47.

I just went by and looked at the head again. The cam it has is new and stamped E30 just like the one on my N47 and is a oiler cam (small hole in the lobes) the machinest said that the cam towers were new also according to the bill they have on file. And they put 2 new stock valves in and ground all of them to the right height, I have know idea what that means. It is wrapped in heavy plastic bag with 2 pieces of cardboard for the bottom, attached with zip ties. And, get this, "if it doesn't work I'll buy it back" warranty. Should I take the chance? I've read alot of people run the N42 just for the square exhaust and no liners. It is supposed to be close to the E88 I think from the 240's which are hard to find because of the low number produced. I'm worried my N47 will be costly to refresh because of broken intake bolts that where fixed with some kind of putty, maybe JB Weld, and the PO drove the car and said it had an exhaust leak. When I got the intakes off the gasket was in many pieces and the exhaust manifold had some odd colored holes. #1 & 2 are soot covered black, #3 & 4 are white in the middle and soot covered along the outer edge, #5 & 6 where the bolt was broken and leaked really bad are pure white. Sorry for the rambling but I'm trying to describe as best I can because I didn't carry a camera to the machine shop and I'm kind of anxious because my 30 day return for the header is the 8th of October. One more thing, the drivers side of the block is covered with oil, greasy and grimmie ecspeacily under the thermostat housing. Passenger side looks fairly nice to be 36 years old. If you can make sense of what I've written would you buy this pig in a poke?

I got my P's mixed up. It's the P90 that had the fuel pump hole at the timing chain but it has round exhaust holes with liners so I know this is a N42. It's the cam towers with no holes for a oil bar that I don't understand.