siteunseen

I put in the urethane bushings while the motor was out, I took the steering rack out and greased and painted it and put new accordion boots on. The steering rod coupler gets new ones too. Never done it before but it seemed easier not having to work around the header and A/C compressor. My biggest help was a small bottle jack for the tie rod ends and the TC bars, it holds things in place while you put the washer and nuts on. They go on from the bottom.

here's the panels, Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto, there's more out there. I would clean with electrical cleaner spray and dielectic grease all the bulb sockets. Mine were all green when I looked at first. Oh yeah I think this is who makes them, google.com Tabco body panels 280ZX.

Congratulations on your 1st Z, they're great fun. You'll have to tell us more about your issues, please. If it's that TURBO you should also look around HybridZ.

I am about to buy 2 indoor dust covers and was wondering what everybody else is using. Black Dragon or MSA, or some other I haven't seen? Thanks for any replies.

Make sure all the rubber from the air filter to the intake is sealing up tight. Those accordion hoses around the AFM are bad to crack and cause un-metered air to get in, vacuum leak.

You won't have to remove the fuel pump all together. The hose from the tank to the pump can be removed at the pump to reveal a small cone shaped filter, about the size of a sewing thimble; maybe smaller. Mine was really fragile and I had to use tweezers to get it out. You should put in a clear filter between the tank and the pump also. They're about $4 at Walmart, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation. Great looking car too!

Good read if you haven't already, Datsun L-series ZCAR engine modifications

I hope mine looks that good when I can afford the re-paint. Like a tomato, they look orange in the bright light then red in lesser lighting. I've never seen a persimmon.

I would think a TURBO would be easiest but if your wanting more do the Chevrolet LS1 conversion. https://www.google.com/search?q=LS1+in+280ZX&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=LS1+in+280ZX&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.11355j0&sourceid=chrome&espvd=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8#es_sm=93&q=LS1+in+280ZX+

Tom Monroe says on page 129, L24, 26 and 28 final torque of 61 ft-lbs. That's a Fel-Pro gasket too.

I skipped over this thread thinking it was about the difference in 87 octane and 93.:stupid: I remembered reading this before I put the potentiometer in coolant sensor line thinking I might get myself one, Simple Digital System EM-5, I like what Lenny's doing better though. He's a Z man.

Here's another Zombie Thread that may shed some light on your quest, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/47447-help-me-understand-aar-please.html I changed my hoses to the '78 configuration too, it keeps the AAR cleaner.

I've figured out, after sleeping on the floor, to raise mine up with jack-stands a couple of feet. 6 ft. tall bent down to 3 ft. takes the fun out of working on mine.

I like that other "Z" too, '70 split bumper Camaro Z28.

I found this, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/41728-speedometer-not-working.html, maybe something there that is useful?

That was a great trade for you! $1,000 bike for at least a $1,500 car, probably more. I wish they made a power band exhaust for these little cars, I guess that would be a TURBO. :stupid: Find your color here, 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery

Congratulations on your 1st one, happy days ahead if you read everything you can and take it slow on these old cars, things break easy. You could also check all the fuses in the passengers side foot well fuse box and the fusible links in front of the battery, 4 wires under plastic caps, just to be sure. Here's another helpful Tech Tip, courtesy of Atlantic Z's, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Funny you posted this today. I bought my 240Z in January and only drove it the first month I had it, I wanted to pay it off before driving it too much in case I decided I couldn't keep it. Yesterday, Monday was the first time I have driven it to work while we were open, too hot in the Deep South until now. I'm usually the first to get there and parked where I normally park my Camry. An hour later I went outside and there was a Ford Expedition on one side and a newer Ford F-150 4 door truck on the other. My roof was lower than the bottom of their windows! Everybody started calling it my Barbie Car or said it looked like a Go Cart. The restaurant I'm working at is next to local Nissan Dealership. 3 salesmen came over looking at it and snapping phone pictures. Today I parked away from those big a$$ cars because their door would bust out my windows. Those salesmen were bringing customers over to look at it all morning. Great fun owning these cars.

Thank you, I learn something new everyday on classiczcars.com.

I'm not understanding the colors on the chart, very neat by the way Mr Moore. I've got a D6K8-22, vacuum advance 30 and 57 total advance. It's in the RED section. Is that bad? Should I get one that's in the YELLOW? I'm installing it in a '77 2.8 FI with N42 Head. Thanks for thread, I thought all E12-80's were the same. OK I just saw that the RED was higher and maybe harmful to my motors health.

You'll have to get it to idle at about 800 RPM to set it with a light. You could get the basic setting here; http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

You're at the right place, come on in. Find out which # you have, should be E31 or E88 I think. Here's something that might help; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/rally-racing/2935-e31-vs-e88-intake.html

https://www.google.com/webhp?source=search_app#q=weber+32%2F36+tuning

According to their web page Walmart and Tractor Supply have it in my area for a little less than $5 a quart.

Looks like my #305 from the picture so I think it looks great! Can't wait to see the whole car sprayed.