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I read it too fast and thought YOU were thinking of trading a series 1 for the ZX.

What a lucky guy to have a friend like you.

Is this a joke? It's not April is it? Oh crap, I was thinking about trading for it! I'm sorry.

Just so happens to be a thread going now on ECU drifting out of specs and a way to tweak it with potentiometer, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/50946-sorry-redundent-help.html. It gets good around post #31. I have one on mine, and for $5 I now have a strong running car. No stumble at all, steady pull.

3,000 RPMs in 4th on jack-stands? Have ever seen Ferris Bueller's Day Off? You're a very brave man!

I'm not positive about this but it seems like I've read that bad injectors will leak and flood the cylinder giving you the sooty plugs. I suppose they could cause the pressure to drop from leaking too, I know after you shut it off, not sure when running though. Google it. When I bought my '77 it had 3 original injectors and 3 replaced ones that were a mint green color, seems like the originals were brown. The ends that spray are plastic and crack after time. My new set are aluminium on the ends. I'm sure the FPR could go bad just never heard of one actually doing it. Captian Obvious, a member on here, has cut one in half. Maybe send him a private message, super nice guy.

Here's some '75 parts on our classifieds, Garage Clean Out, Miscellaneous, $ 1.00

Yes you can, most people mount them closer to the fuel rail on the drivers side. I took mine off when we figured out the problem. Now it's with my other test tools, I'm sure I'll need again.

Bad choice, sorry. Just realized it was some type of yellow/gold. http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/4185627723.html

Here's what I did at first. You can reach across the valve cover and rotate the throttle rod. here's a good detail of parts needed to put together a gauge, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/50946-sorry-redundent-help.html, read post #31. You'll be able to get the "T" and the hose barbs from an auto parts store, seems like I found the T in the brake line fittings cabinet.

Zed Head is right, as usual, when I bought a 240 it would crank and crank. I adjusted the waaaay out of spec valves and it hits on the first bump now. So a good tune up and a new fuel filter up front may be your problem. If it did OK when you first bought it I would buy a fuel filter ASAP. Driving it for a month could have slowly clogged it up and it's taking awhile to get the pressure up.

Your gonna need a bigger box.

Try spraying starter fluid in the throttle body through one of the hoses coming off it, it should have a couple on the accordion hose going in. If it starts up it could be your cold start valve. I think my car cranks better with that small shot of gas from the CSV, I've unplugged it to see.

Get both, I did. I drive the 280 without worrying, long comfortable drives. I "run" the 240 through the city once a month to keep the battery and fluids fresh. I had a couple of Zs in high school, '76 & '78, then a few years ago bought a '77. I'm still working on it but with the help of these fine folks I have a good car. After reading on here for a couple of years I had to have a 240. Totally different cars in my opinion. My 240 feels more like a race car would feel, I imagine. It's light and twitchy and kinda rough riding and not too safe feeling, I hope like hell I never have a wreck in it. Work on the '75 without doing a full blown restore and find yourself a good project gone broke of a 240 and buy it. I bet you'll find room for them both.

These 2 at the top.

Great info! Thank You Fastwoman. Now I can "un-cobble" mine out of the cabin for good.

Switch books! Tom Monroe's is much better.

You should read page 42, "Oil Pump/ Distributor Drive", in your How to Rebuild Nissan Datsun book. When you go to put it back in read pages 136 & 137.

Me too! As soon as I get a paint job, I'll be there. Thanks for the pictures Steve.

Mine never completely died, just bucked and jumped like it was out of gas, and would always crank and idle. If your car is stalling out and hard to re crank I'd definitely go get a pressure gauge and the brass fittings. And yeah I can flood mine out sitting in the driveway turning it wide open. I believe the one I bought was this one 1M-Ohm Linear Taper Potentiometer : Potentiometers | RadioShack.com.

I can't edit anymore, timed out, anyway my car ran good for just a few seconds here and there. I got excited and rebuilt the whole motor. New fuel rail and fuel injectors, new Bosch fuel pump, new everything! It still had that same stumble after 3 months and $1500. I gave up and left it with a mechanic that worked on them at a Nissan dealership back in the days, he couldn't figure out the problem other than it wasn't getting enough fuel. So I did what I had read helped others and put that tweak knob in the coolant sensor wires. As soon as I did it I went and picked up that mechanic and went for a ride. He was amazed. If you have a Radio Shack close by try it, it's $5 worth of stuff and you unplug the existing wires, put the pot in between the 2 original wires and if it doesn't help you just unplug it and reattach the originals. I wished I had done that 2 years ago but I wouldn't have a new motor or the experiences.

I had an older picture from when I was doing what you're doing. I think I ended up running it off the fuel rail somewhere around the injectors, to the windshield wiper. 5/16" stuff is what you need but not necessarily EFI rated for the long hose to the wiper, it's expensive but you'll always be able to use it if you do buy that type. It seems like I used a worm clamp around the base of the gauge, it's 1/4", to hold the hose to the gauge on that end. If it starts leaking you can see it real good because it's zip tied to your wiper blade . Lowes would have a gauge somewhere, air compressor area or maybe plumbing, anything works for a short test. Pressure will vary but somewhere around 30psi is what you want. Hope this helps. Thanks again Fastwoman, couldn't done it without your help. After a cup of coffe I can honestly say the volume knob or potentometer ran inside while you drive is easier than hooking up a fuel gauge to the wiper. But I'm not trying to add to your worries, a fuel gauge is a must if you've got problems.

There's two square spots, about as big as a Lego on my cam I can put a large Crescent wrench on. Between #4 & #5. Lobes 4 & 5, from the front.

It's nice when things are "easier". I drove mine for a couple of hours a month or so back then stopped for more fuel and had to ask someone for a jump start, people are getting weird about that now, got it back home and realized the alternator belt was super loose. Tightened it up and no more problems.

One more hard learned lesson. I worked on mine for about a week and then my back was killing me so I go raid Pop's medicine cabinet and his eloquent self say's " hell, raise that front end up with jack stands and get it closer to 'ya, quit bending over so much and stay out of my medicine cabinet".