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Thank you guys!

Remove the radiator cap then drive a GTR under it and replace. Your pictures look great to my eyes. I put a header and a 2.5" exhaust, port matched the manifolds when I rebuilt mine. Nothing but louder. I think a good running fuel injection motor is about all it can be. A turbo motor is all I can think of.

The metal side against the head? Thanks, Cliff

I'm with you on that, nothing works as good as OE. I drove 45 minutes one way for a $3 seal for my Camry that my local Toyota dealer was out of stock on and the mechanic needed it ASAP. He did the "full monty" on mine, water pump and oil pump with the new belt. I always thought Porsche had the only motor that came out from the bottom but I was WRONG. He dropped that motor in an hour. I forgot to say he put another motor in, I over revved the 240,000 mile original and busted the engine balancer all to h e l l.

I turned mine upside down and moved the .55" in and out, bending the tab until it wouldn't move the float anymore. Make sure it's closing off by attaching a short piece of hose to the fuel inlet and blow into the valve. It shouldn't let any air blow through when it is at the right height and the pin is depressed in, closing off the valve. Try to suck air out too. I ended up with a bad valve that wasn't opening. Bruce sent me one overnight, great folks to do business with. I may have that backwards, it's hard to explain in text and I have no idea how to do video but it will make sense when you start blowing into or sucking air out. It's opposite of a schrader valve on you car tire, pin fully out lets fuel into the chamber, pin pushed in closes off the flow. I'm pretty sure I used one washer on the front carb to get the right height, it has the longer arms doesn't it? Maybe I used one on the rear and two on the front? I apologize if I've confused you. Turn the chamber lid upside down, it's easier to figure out that way. Cliff

I used a drinking straw cut in half. I think a dipstick would be too long and fall out. Maybe a short screwdriver but metal on top of the piston getting bound up would suck. But I'm a little too cautious, it causes me to drink a lot.

The biggest notch at the far left is 0 on the 240 damper, then 5 degrees for each smaller notch moving up clockwise. It looks about right compared to mine but like Zed said there is a "perfect spot" for TDC. I'm thinking with the keyway on the crank it would put any damper at the same position, a 240 or a 280 damper. The white spot in this picture is past TDC, my timing chain was advanced a tooth or two from the previous owner. Caused me a big ole headache, never could get the timing adjusted right. Now I'm rebuilding it.

I used that Permatex gasket sealer, red and tacky, when I rebuilt my 280 with a full Felpro gasket kit. I'm going to use their Aviation Form A Gasket on the one I'm doing now and as many Nissan gaskets as I can. Felpro seems thin and easily tears apart.

When I took the flywheel off the automatic L24 I bought I felt how light it was and got all excited, then I realized there was no friction plate on there. I thought I had an expensive lightened flywheel. :: Wow, I clicked on your's. You were about to be walking home.

Here's something that may help, especially #13, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40658-fuel-pump-and-relay-problem/ I've seen those connectors at the battery crumbling apart.

What do y'all think? I've tried to get it as close to a P79 as I can. It's not perfect by no means but I'm getting sick of grinding and polishing the combustion chambers. I'm going to port match the head to the manifold tomorrow. Then soda blast this weekend and give it to the machinist Monday, so I have time to make corrections that somebody can point out. thanks for looking and critiquing Cliff

I put my brand new (rebuilt) motor on #3. A mechanic friend said it would give it more bottom end "grunt". It's runs great with plenty of top end power too. 6,200 RPM redline, saw it 1st through 4th gear Saturday pulling away from a Mustang. Just saying...

There's some different safety cutoffs to the pump. I know one is in the oil pressure sending unit and MAYBE the '78s are in the AFM??? You can get some small alligator clips and speaker wire and straight wire the pump to the battery, bypasses all the safety switches.

I did what Chas is saying but zip tied it to the driver's side wiper blade. If you get an 1/8 NPT threaded gauge it'll screw down into 5/16" fuel line then put a clamp over that. Just for testing, the cheaper low pressure fuel line worked for me. About 4 or 5 feet with a gauge like this, http://www.lowes.com/pd_199191-1003-PG550_0__?storeNumber=0252&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4031c031c0%5D&productId=3151541

They've got to have a warehouse full of damaged goods. I sorta blame FedEx too, they shouldn't accept poorly prepared packages but I guess they get paid twice when we return stuff. The salesman on this last header told me only their manifold stud kit would work with that header. Ridiculous but I fell for it the first time.

I bought my 1st Z, '76 280 in 1987 for $1,000 because it would only idle. Trailered it to a mechanic that popped that cover off and tapped that sweeper vane loose from being stuck because it sat for awhile. Ran like new.

I talked with my machinist Monday morning about the bronze valve seats. What a relief when he said he had a seat machine and thinks he still has some steel seats, both sides too for Nissan heads $5 each. So a little more grinding then it's his. My header and 2.5" exhaust came in too. MSA is still putting their 6 into 1 header in a shoebox and kicking them to my house, it was sticking out really bad but they got lucky. I went over it last night with a flashlight and found 1 ding but I'm okay with it, $503 for both items. Free shipping and 10% classiczcars discount. Broke out my 280 this weekend, I'd forgotten how good fuel injection is when it's right.

Would the fuel injector holes on the N42 head have to be welded up or is that not too important if the intake manifold covers them? Curious.

Cold for me too, then another quick "fits or doesn't fit" when hot. But I don't remember readjusting a single valve when hot. Is there some other way to find "Kammy's World Famous Valve Adjustment"? I tried linking it for someone on here awhile back and it was gone.

So now Canadians DO get it? Who in their right mind would argue with him?

You're most welcome. After comparing the short Fords to the stock Felpros I think they'll be fantastic for our cars. I ruined a brand new set just trying to remove them, they fit that tight onto the valve guides. When I pulled the valves through them they made a "pop" sound.

I'm not planning on cutting any off the bottom unless it's not straight. I am being careful not to cut much, just trying to blend everything together. Am I making a big mess? I got the P79 down for comparison and ended up spending the day cleaning up my garage. It was 60 degrees and sunny, I needed that.

Ring size is close to what I need. Maybe I can find some moly rings for a Chevy.

Mandarin Man

I'm on the side of "do it". I bought that Tom Monroe book, read it about 3 times then rebuilt my 1st car motor all by myself and it turned out perfect. One of the best feelings I've ever had, although there was a lot of anxiety and "while I'm this far why not do this...". I could have easily done a good job for under $1,000 but I bought a new exhaust and header and a few other "while I'm this far why not do this...". If you'll post some pictures you will get a lot more info/opinions. Cliff