siteunseen

maybe you can read the part number from Nissan for the bigger one. I think he said it was for their Titan pickup, been a few years since I bought one. Seems like it was a M10x1.50. I did the bit increment method then tapped the threads.

Here's more helpful reading that may solve some problems. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

It didn't bond with the primer. I've painted a lot of stuff in my life and this is a first. The only time something like this was when I put semi gloss latex on an oil painted door at a friends place. It's like a bonding agent is missing and I do lightly sand between coats. It's all over with and nice and slick now so I was venting earlier, leaving bad feedback on our forum too.

...sucks, don't buy it if you're wanting paint. It's like putting latex over oil. I sprayed my oil pan over a week ago and it looked fantastic. Bead blasted to bare metal then primed with Duplicolor 500 degree engine block primer. Two light coats followed by a medium coat. This morning I go to put the pan on, blew the dust off and sheets the size of my hand came off with air gun. Now I've got it back bare metal and am going to paint the pan Duplicolor Pontiac Blue to match the block. I don't want a black oil pan. That be like blood colored band aids.

Happy Thanksgiving Day - America

The ones I have are mechanically dependable first, not shiny. Lipstick on a pig, it's still a pig.

Honestly, they hardly ever go bad and are difficult to replace. Steve probably realized your's was working properly when he put the pressure gauge in-line and saw the readings. It's the aftermarket adjustable FPRs that leak down so fast. Most of the time the injectors are dripping out the pressure.

I pulled it off Google while I was looking for one like your's. It very well could be for a Ford? I know the Ford Ranger PU used the seals I posted above for their 6 cylinder motor, they are called Viton seals and were discussed on hybridz.org. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/68120-problem-with-viton-valve-seals/ I thought they were upside down too but the rubber seal around the top is pointing up. I don't know about you but I would want 12 of the same type. A very popular adverb for us Southerners to use is bass ackwards.

We have one here as well, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/33910-pay-it-forward/

I can't find anything close to those "top hat" looking seals, curious I am.

Giving parts to someone that needs them is what I prefer. That way I know they know and will use them to remedy a problem. Donating money is a slippery slope, someone could buy nicer stuff than I have.

It seems like I sent one with Steve when I sent him the fuel pressure gauge you have? It was working when I removed it. I put a new fuel rail on mine and had to use a FPR from a '78, only one inlet.

I can't edit that post but this thread talks about the check valve in the original fuel pump. It works like a valve stem for a tire but backwards, it lets fuel leave but not flow back in.

Yes, a good FPR will hold pressure indefinitely. My '77 will crank right up after sitting for a week, leave it a month and I have to turn it over a few times before it cranks.

You can try zcarsource http://www.zcarsource.com/fuel-damper-280z-280zx-75-83-new_8_77824_52489.html

Here's those Ford seals on hybridz I bet you're thinking of. I've never seen any with a "hat" like that.

To save Zs the folks that have lost interest should sale. They're sitting on them for "some day" that'll never come. I think crowd sourcing should be left out of hobbies. If you can't afford a hobby find one you can.

Then the clutch is good. I think if you put a thermometer on the motor somewhere you'd see how the gauges read high. When mine gets over to the right, it's less than 200 degrees with a thermometer. 180's about right sitting still.

Have you tried to spin the fan while the oil in the fan clutch is not hot? It should not make more than one or two complete rotations if it's good. If it freely spins then you might need to replace.

I had a funny feeling after reading the title of this thread, I'm glad it was just a hot gauge and not that something had gone horribly wrong. Not too long ago this young guy around here didn't want his Dad's pressure washer running in the rain so he brought it into the garage he wash washing down. The garage door was open and still he died of carbon monoxide poisoning. Hard to believe but true, and sad.

Bullet points. Bullet points. Bullet points Bullet points It won't do it for me.

Hey Steve, I'm getting close to installing timing components and have to make a decision on what number I want to use. I went straight to hole #3 when I rebuilt my 2.8 a few years ago and like it but thought about trying #2 on this 2.4, I don't really have a good reason to do this though, just trying something different. Are you talking about hole #3 on the cam sprocket or do you have something fancier than stock that I don't know about? Thank you for any advice.

That's neat. I like all the plug wire configurations.

That's not too bad for a 240 gauge. Mine's been there plenty. Well looking back that's in the red isn't it. With the fan clutch cold in the morning you shouldn't be able to spin it more than one or two complete rotations by hand. Your coolant could be low also.

There's a lot of good people around here. I've felt welcome since my 1st post.