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I use VR-1 10w-30 year round. They stay in a garage though, so no cold starts. My $.02 cents. On my rebuilt motor I'm about to fire up for the first time, 20 minutes, my machinist has talked me into Shell Rotella Triple Protection 10w-30 ($13.99 a gallon). It has 1,200 ppm of zinc, same as VR-1 according to what I've read but the overall additives are better in the VR-1. So after break in I'm going with VR-1. Schneider will send you a small tub of past for the cam's lobes and a pint of zinc additive for the oil, for the initial run in. I think they recommend 20 minutes too, can't remember right off but it's in the instruction you'll get with your regrind. I sent them a "Japan" stamped cam out of one of my Z heads, made a small mark so I'd know if they used it when I got it back. They didn't. I called and asked, he said they have them ready to go and mine will be used as a core for someone else's regrind. Maybe yours! here's what I got, http://schneidercams.com/270-80_FL6.aspx MSA calls it a stage 3. They sent .190 lash pads. Can't wait to put it all together but I'm going to use the stock head for break in then do the switch later this summer. Cliff

My phones been chirping all night. Just figured out why. I mistakenly hit the "notify me of replies" when I hit the "submit reply" button. I'll have to more careful when I'm using my phone. Fat fingers!

He has no conscious. Rules don't apply to him. Sociopath, by the definition.

So you bolt on as much as you can before dropping it in? That makes more sense to me, the manifolds gasket is very important in my opinion. Needs to be equally torqued all the way around and given a day or so to " squash/squish" down then retorqued in my opinion. I can have someone push the header towards the passenger's side while I lower the motor into place. On my 280 rebuild I read someone's suggestion to remove the steering rod and that turned out to be a HUGE pain in my a** reinstalling that rod. Thank you for your experience. I'm so glad I got that p79 to you! It'll be a blessing from now own I'm sure. 8^) More advice from the members please! Actually i do not want to use the lifting eye on the rear exhaust stud, nylon slings is what I'm thinking of using. Y'all are what makes this doable, it's family helping family. Thanks again!

Will you be bolting the header up before dropping the motor back in? I'm at that stage now and can't decide. Any advice would be great. Cliff

I'd guess the passenger's footwell but after looking at these diagrams, it may be under the hood on the passenger's side in front of the battery. zcarsource.com has a picture of one if that helps. https://www.google.com/search?q=fuel+pump+control+modulator+is+located+at+on+a+1983+zx+turbo+car&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiGo-yKobvLAhXHSiYKHf-eB3IQ_AUICCgC&biw=1280&bih=620#tbm=isch&q=fuel+pump+control+modulator+location+on+a+1983+zx+turbo+car&imgrc=_

I let the machinists get them for me and ended up with Hastings chrome faced rings. He says it's the same as Nissan used to begin with. The 2.4 rings are few and far between, I learned on my searches. DJ Warner used Hasting cast iron on his and they worked good for him. I would've been happy with those but I decided to let my guy make the decision. Installed them with WD-40, per his instructions. Fingers crossed!

They mistook "Man in black" for man is black!!! Lost in translation.

Thanks Mark! I've been looking over some pictures and noticed the timing chain plunger is completely compressed except for the rubber washer between the plunger and it's housing so that makes me feel a lot better. The guides had the adjustable holes and I did use the closet holes to the chain so that is another factor in the tightness. Plus no grooves are worn in yet so... Just a worrying kind of guy, damn it!

Finally, no leaks! Now I can stress on the carbs. If someone could answer a couple of questions, I'll sleep like a baby tonight. 1st is my timing chain. Super tight but the whole motor seems tight as well so I guess I'm just overthinking? 2nd is the motor is really tight! It turns smoothly by hand using an 8" socket wrench with the 27mm socket, overthinking again? Spark plugs are out. All new parts, timing kit, bearings and chrome faced moly rings. Honestly I just don't remember the 2.8 I built being this tight. But I keep telling myself, before I bought a remote starter, the motors were pretty tough to move when I adjusted the valves. I remember using a 36" piece of pipe on the crank bolt as a cheater bar and so I could turn it from the top side. Thanks for any confidence building advice or just put it in and crank it, it'll loosen up. Cliff

I admire his techniques as much as the drug dealers selling poison. He really sticks it to the poor guys living outside the States.

What a neat story. I am one of those kids too except I pitched a fit and ended up with the model but my Dad wouldn't let me play with it. He put up on the "top shelf" thank goodness or I would have destroyed it.

Yes, it's methanol they're looking for. You can get it at auto parts stores or quick shops in a de-icer type washer fluid. I live at the south end of the Appalachian Mountains. It's easier getting heroin than moonshine for young guys here. The older guys that get moonshine don't fool with the young idiot kids. I have a HALF of a bottle in my fridge now. An 8 oz glass puts me to sleep better than anything in the world! My Dad gets it from one of his buddies. Comes in a name brand liquor bottle so you don't get in trouble. Mine is in a Wild Turkey 101 bottle this time. It's more like Wild Turkey 180 though.

Kids around here are mixing de-icer/windshield cleaner with Mountain Dew and drinking it! Methanol is what they want to get stupid so they won't fail drug testing. They're dropping like flies though, it's very poisonous. Kids do the darndest things to avoid failing a drug test. Legalize it and they'll quit this stupid sh#t. Soda brains? No brains!

It tuck a few weaks but I finully got it tawked down to sex pounds. Thanks to Mr Waana for his add vice.

I know the zx fans are closer to the radiator but have an extra blade. I tried putting a zx fan on my 240 and with the ac pulleys it hit the radiator. I think the zx fans mount to the clutch in the back instead of the front like 240s thru 280zs putting them closer to the radiator. Ive removed the a/c so I'm hoping I can run the 5 blade zx fan now. I'll know in a week or so when I get the motor back in. Previously I had a 280 3 row with a zx full shroud on my '72 240. Greatly reduced the temp. Also I will attach a belly pan on there somehow as it doesn't have one now. I have one off a 280z but will have to drill different holes to work on the 240. My expirence so far.

I'd like to think the face of the bigger valves would hold more fluid for testing. But that's just my simple mindedness way of thinking, I'm no machinist.

71!! You are my new hero. I did one when I somewhere around 41. Stayed in bed flat on my back for a whole weekend!

Sociopaths don't understand negative.

Read the recently updated thread "uneven oil pressure". I think you'll never be happy with that motor.

Sorry for your misfortune. I'm grateful for folks like you that share this scam artist's misdeeds. He's a crook and will answer for it someday, somehow.

Both my 240s have metal sliding ashtray covers. They are '72s though. I do have a cover like that over my fuse block. Sorry, but I learned something so thank you. 8^)

Fortunately we won't remember how bad it is and how often it happens.

It's cast aluminum isn't it? I wonder if you could have it welded from underneath somehow.

This was $15,300 with 35 bids, now it's $11,350 with 33. Sleaze e-bay.