siteunseen

You could easily pull the valve cover and pour oil right on the cam and all the other stuff, rockers and valve stems. The valve seals and lash pads too. If you aren't in a hurry you should do a valve adjustment double check from the rebuild. A lot of times lash pads fall off after rebuild settings. Mine did and I was fully attentive, half drunk but paid attention.

Take the wire off the coil and spin it with no plugs. It'll need the oil on the valve train after sitting so long. Follow atlanticz advice, I always have.

A new tool huh? Would you make this girl a smaller guitar? About a violin size.

Grannyknot wrote the books on 240s, I only know how to read them.

I've wondered if it's a misunderstanding in raising and lowering the nozzles by way of the direction the mixture nuts being turned.

The valves used to be different heights to compensate front and rear for acceleration. To simplify adjustment I have two of the short ear lids. Another member here drilled the holes higher for the float pins to be the same.

That's fantastic work Sir. I had the sense to saw mine off but the bottom of my tunnel was rotted farther back and too jagged for a plate. I was going to do as Zedhead mentioned, just put a big 'ol wad of JB Weld in there but lucky for me I found an N42 on an old junkyard 280.

They put them on some ZXs, not sure of the years. '81-'83?

Judging by one of your pics all that black soot around that jagged hole confirms exhaust is going through the egr tunnel. I had a golf ball size hole in my n47 from exhaust gas rot. If you don't have to deal with the state inspection I would highly, highly recommend going to an n42.

My old fluid looked like Sunkist and had about the same consistency. I'm sure it was low but everything under mine was dry. It'd just been sitting for 10 years.

Mr Obvious, I had to talk into getting in the car. I was already 3 sheets in the wind. Drove over a bridge looking for him that said "Welcome to Arkansas". I turned around and found the Man with some shot glasses of home brew on a "plank". I'll remember that until my dementia takes over.

He is most definately not "slow" or on the SPECTRUM. I met him, the Sasquatch in Memphis. Really weird dude but I let him in my car and we hit up some local breweries. We both got weird. Redneck from Alabama with an engineer from Philly.

I'm sorry but I just read this. Seems like the coolant wires were different colors than the thermotime wires? I'm away from my cars at the moment but you might could figure it out by looking at these pics on Blue's Tech Tips https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

Here's some quick cleaning spots that will help a lot. Metal files work good, fingernail files too. I have an old points file that works great. 320 sandpaper works. Blow it all out with an air compressor. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

I know a ZX shroud fits a 280 radiator. 😊

I'd leave brand new plugs out for compression test. Motor turns freely but the test fitting will build psi. Do all six the same test procedure. No variant possibility. All the same. Stay focused.

The valve seat came loose? Did it beat the piston to death or did you shut it down when you heard the racket? There are cylinder head repair shops all around my part of Alabama so I'd think you could find something close by. If it were mine I would go by the oldest machine shop you can find and explain your problem. You might save $$$ taking the head off and have them replace the seats, probably old bronze now, and grind your valve edges. Install new valve seals too. Put the head back on yourself. That way your Z stays in your garage.

I learned the "quick and dirty" adjustment way. It was right up my shady tree mechanical way of thinking. Once I read it a few times then did a couple, all that carb talk made sense. And to @Jeff G 78 height difference in the '72 carbs I robbed float lid off a spare set I had and made both lids rear carb float level. The rears have shorter ears to compensate for acceleration. Going up a steep mountain one time I the front carb ran low and I was only running on the back carb, cylinders 4, 5 and 6. I had a 3 cylinder 240Z for a minute.

Was there a difference in the way the motor ran that you noticed going to HF and Home Depot?

I've always had the best search results by typing simple keywords and ending with classiczcars.com. If it's something I remember reading from a member I put their name next to last then classiczcars.com. Most of the time I hit IMAGES and go from what I've seen in threads. Our forum is fantastic but searching within the database is lacking for sure. I'm about to start using duckduckgo.com. Google has gone to the dark side where the money is, assholes. Maybe I'll use Ask Jeeves on AOL. Sorry for the detour.

You can pinch the fuel hose between the filter and the fuel rail. Should be hard if it's got proper pressure. I think you have fuel problems too. Sounds very familiar to what I had. A filthy fuel tank. Do you have a clear filter coming out of the tank? You need one to see if there's trash in the tank. Fram G3 works best on the 280.

Fastwoman, Sarah, was the best. She was unbelievably helpful with me and my '77. We all miss her. She was a Volvo lover too then went head first into the efi 280 like you. Once we got them right the fun went away. I can't remember what she bought but I bought two 240s. I kept the best one now I'm bored again.

I just noticed on a clutch master I replaced a few weeks ago that clevis thing came on the new one. I can give you some measurements later today if you might can use it. I was going to throw this away anyway.

The potentiometer I have is almost a toy now that it's corrected my below 2,500 rough running. When I'm on the interstate I can dial it around and run cooler temps at higher speeds and also better MPGs. It's a better than futzing with the radio knobs like the old days. I have a love/hate for my smartphone. Cost me $5 at Radio Shack years ago. Good read here...