siteunseen

I'm starting to see those new Corvettes around here. They sure do look cool. I'm sure they're mucho bucks too.

Forgot about another idle switch. The smaller black box below the afm, throttle position switch could be stuck on the idle side. Spiders cause some havoc when cars sit up. Good luck.

The sweeper vane on the afm behind that black square cover could be stuck. Try banging that a few times. You may have to pull the cover off to move it. Check the airbox too. Might have a nest obstruction in there. While it's idling squeeze the fuel line on top of the metal fuel filter behind the radiator. It should very hard to pinch together.

Some small needle nosed Vise grips would be good. I'd hate for the key to fall down into the cover.

It looks as though it may be upside down?

They are teachers! Keep up the good work.

That's what I can do in my county. Do the google earth thing or maybe you already know the address then go to the county's website and look at the property tax records. I remember there was onetime somebody found one on a property with a big privacy fence around the yard. They did the satellite search and found some pot plants in the backyard. Anybody remember that? Good luck with your search.

Oh why aren't things funny anymore? I'm growing old...

On the SNL train...

Now after I've sat down and had a beer or 4, if I'm thinking what you're doing then yes. You can put the front cover with the seal tapped into place on and then the pulley or crank wheel you have will slide in, lube the rubber 1st, just fine. Then the big washer and nut and you're done.

I got confused on crank wheel. Here's a web pic too. This is what you should have before the cover with the seal goes on. Sorry for any confusion.

Wait a second! You can put the gear drive on then the seal. Is that your motor above?

Check and see if the gear will fit through the seal. I remember tapping it on the cover then putting the cover on last. After the oil slinger and gear drive. Try some grease or lube on that rubber too. You don't want to tear it.

here's the first and second lobe position at TDC. Kinda bunny ears???

Good luck and let me know if you want me to scan that page if you can't read the pictures. Another thing to remember when you work on anything that has even a chance at "timing" is get it at TDC before you do the work. I lock the cam down with some big ole vise-grips resting on the driver's side of the head when I fool with the distributor and oil pump. I found an old thread where Madkaw tells a way without removing the cover. You might try his way 1st? Sounds easy but he's much more a mechanic than me. madkaw Registered User Members 545 4,122 posts Map Location: bloomington IN Report post ID: #6 Posted August 13, 2019 TDC COMPRESSION STROKE!!!!!! Pull #1 plug and shove a vacuum plug that just fits the hole in there. Turn over motor till that sucker shoots across the room- you found compression stroke . Now line everything up. Steve 9/71 240Z 3.2 - N42/P90 Megasquirt EFI . 3.90 Subaru STI LSD

man I was way off. BPR5ES-11 gapped at .044 https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/part-finder

The ZX cap is bigger so they run a different plug than the stock ones. I have the ZX distributor and a Crane Ps20 coil, I think it's 1.5 OHMs, and use the NGK B6ES-11 and have them gapped at .042 if I remember right. Somewhere around .040 but not over .043.

Yes the front closet to the radiator is #1. The windshield is #6.

There's a lot of ways to TDC. You'll have to get the valve cover off which is no big deal and then the 1st 2 cam lobes should look like rabbit ears. That gets you in the ballpark. Then get #1 all the way up top, I use a piece of straw. Anyway it's tough the first time, it was for me but after you've done it and figured it out it gets easier. I'm using my phone tonight and can't get to my saved stuff. Here's some google threads you can read over. I can post more in the morning and find some good pictures. https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=U4w9YNaXKoac5gKb9ZXYCw&q=tdc+classiczcars.com+&oq=tdc+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBQghEKABMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQqwI6BAgAEEc6BggpEBYQHjoGCAAQFhAeOgIIKToICCkQsQMQkQI6BwgpEAoQoAE6CAgAEOoCEI8BOgUIKRCTAjoECAAQQzoFCAAQkQI6CwguELEDEMcBEKMCOggIABCxAxCDAToICC4QsQMQgwE6AggAOg4ILhCxAxCDARDHARCjAjoKCC4QxwEQrwEQQzoKCC4QsQMQgwEQQzoFCAAQsQM6BwgAELEDEEM6CggAELEDEIMBEEM6CAguEMcBEK8BOgQIABAKOggIABAWEAoQHlCiFVjaV2DIamgBcAF4A4ABpQKIAb4ekgEGMS4xMy43mAEAoAEBsAEeyAEIwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

I took some pics with my phone. I can scan it for you tomorrow if this isn't readable. I'll put them in order with the finished position photo last. Well that didn't work out like I'd hoped. Sorry, scanning would be better but I can't until tomorrow.

Seems like I needed to remove the front torsion bar, or at least one side, and get it out of the way to drop or install with the motor in. Here again I did this. There may be a way I didn't see? I agree with RacerX. It would be much easier to put the cover on without the pump. The way you have to time the spindle with the crank gear also. There's a trick Tom Monroe's book has that works for me. I'll post that in a little while when I can find it. Edit: sway bar

Yes, the top of the rectangle is 23mm down from the underside of the lid. This is a picture I've always used for reference. I can't remember who to credit for it but Jarvo or Zkars always pop up in my head. I use the clear tubing too just like the photo.

I can't tell from the photo if you have it bolted down yet but I have always heard to start in the middle and tighten them down. Working your way to the ends as you go. Maybe the others could correct me but that's what I've always done.

That's what I like about BAT. No scammers can get through and they know it. Plenty of photos.

Apparently so. He's been driving all day.